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Hi Im trying to remove bogie wheels to replace bearings.Its on a 1997 xlt 600 touring 133 track xtra 12 suspension.The ones im trying to remove are not the rear ones but right after the rear 2 inside the skids.I got one bolt off the other one i turn and whole shaft turns is there a trick i hope someone can help.
 

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Tighten the one that you have loose. Then go back and loosen the other one. Then loosen the first one.

If that doesn't do it, take one of the bolts all the way out and thread a nut the same diameter and pitch onto the bolt. Then start the bolt back into the suspension until it has engaged the threads in the cross shaft a couple turns. Then tighten the NUT instead of the bolt head. You should be able to remove the other side, and then loosen the nut on the other side, the bolt should unthread easily.
 

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1998 Polaris xlt classic. 2002 polaris indy 500
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Tighten the one that you have loose. Then go back and loosen the other one. Then loosen the first one.

If that doesn't do it, take one of the bolts all the way out and thread a nut the same diameter and pitch onto the bolt. Then start the bolt back into the suspension until it has engaged the threads in the cross shaft a couple turns. Then tighten the NUT instead of the bolt head. You should be able to remove the other side, and then loosen the nut on the other side, the bolt should unthread easily.
I know this is a super old post, but I'm currently changing all of the wheel bearings out of my wife's 98 xlt classic(bought it in the spring)and I had the same issue with the shaft spinning on the front lower wheels as well as the rear axle wheels(the furthest ones back). I put a pair of vise grips on the shaft upfront but I couldnt see that working for the rear axle. So I tried BC-Dans way of using a bolt and nut but no joy there. No matter how tight I got the bolt/nut onto the side I had gotten off, it kept loosing up when I went to turn the other bolt. So I grabbed my air impact hoping itd shock it enough and spin it fast enough to break it loose. Thankfully it did lol. But I just wanted to thank BC-Dan for his suggestion of the bolt/nut combo because although I couldnt do it that way by hand, I'm sure I wouldnt have gotten it with the impact if I had not put that bolt/nut combo on the other side, so thank you sir
 

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You're quite welcome! Sometimes those bolts can be more than stubborn. I pulled the suspension on my 600 this summer for maintenance and had to go back and forth 4 times on the front cross shaft before both sides broke free. Sometimes an impact is the only way that works!
 

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1998 Polaris xlt classic. 2002 polaris indy 500
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You're quite welcome! Sometimes those bolts can be more than stubborn. I pulled the suspension on my 600 this summer for maintenance and had to go back and forth 4 times on the front cross shaft before both sides broke free. Sometimes an impact is the only way that works!
Yeah, if the air impact didnt work, I was going to try my rigid impact, which is pretty powerful. Just not sure if it's more powerful than the air one lol.
So hey, how easily do the inner rear wheels come off of the rear axle? I want to replace the bearings in them, not because they are bad, but because I'm changing the 8 other wheels that I've been able to get off easily. The only problem is I dont want to take the skid off this year because it's been in my garage since may so my wife is always on me to get the thing put back together lol. I'm for sure going to pull it next year tho
 

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Should be pretty easy. I've not tried it while the suspension is still in the sled. If you do, loosen the back axle to give you a bit of room to work, and remove the two bolts on the axle. Take pics before you disassemble so you can remember how all the parts go back together again. There are a two plastic spacers that straddle the rail on each side and a metal spacer between one rail and the inner wheel. There could be a few other washers/spacers/bushings in there, too. Make sure to pull the shaft to clean and re-grease it.

Good luck!
 

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Well I started to try and pull the skid tonight and I was able to get the right side(if your standing at the back of the sled) bolt out but the left side is just spinning. I looked up underneath while turning it and seen the collar with a set screw in it was spinning with the bolt. Is that one solid shaft that goes through there? If so, I could try putting a bolt with one or two nuts back in the right side, like I tried with the rear idler wheels, right? I decided to pull the skid because I was inspecting/checking out the upper idler wheels and they both had a pretty good amount of side to side movement. The right sides wheel also looked like it had grease or something on it, so I definitely want to drop the skid and change those as well. I've read that using a ratchet strap to compress the skid helps with removal and installation? I would want to run the strap under the track, but in the same direction as the track, is that right?
 

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I use rachet strap to install the skid. I flip machine on its side to remove skid after getting the 4 mounting bolts out. When installing skid I flip machine on its side and install 1 front mounting bolt the flip it over to other side and install other front bolt. Then I flip it onto its track and suspend machine with a chain I have hooked to and eye bolt in ceiling. I then place small floor jack under track and place a rachet strap from rear torque arm tp a cross shaft toward front of skid. Then just a matter of aligning rear mounting holes by raising skid/track via jack and moving rear torque arm with ratchet strap.
 

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I use rachet strap to install the skid. I flip machine on its side to remove skid after getting the 4 mounting bolts out. When installing skid I flip machine on its side and install 1 front mounting bolt the flip it over to other side and install other front bolt. Then I flip it onto its track and suspend machine with a chain I have hooked to and eye bolt in ceiling. I then place small floor jack under track and place a rachet strap from rear torque arm tp a cross shaft toward front of skid. Then just a matter of aligning rear mounting holes by raising skid/track via jack and moving rear torque arm with ratchet strap.
Right on. I actually already have my sleds rear end pretty high in the air right now. I have it hooked to a chain hoist that is hooked to my rafters. I was finally able to get the other rear tunnel bolt loosened up by putting a longer bolt of the same size/thread with a nut on it. I had to really crank down that nut, and it still took me a few times with my air impact but it finally broke free lol. So I only lowered the back half of the skid so I could take off the upper wheels to replace the bearings. When I looked at the right side upper wheel, it looks like someone drilled a hole through it. That doesnt seem right to me so I ordered a pair of wheels on ebay. But I have a question. How to I remove the two inner rear idler wheels? I took the outside ones off(I'm referring to the wheels that adjust track tension)and replaced the bearings as I've done with all of the wheels so far, except for the two inners(I guess alot of machines only have 3 rear wheels stock, 2 outer one inner, but I have 2 and 2)and I dont want to not change the inners. Especially with having the back part of the skid down. I released the tension on the torsion springs but I'm just not really sure how to remove the wheels, or if I have to remove the rear axle
 

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After sitting here and reading through this thread...It makes me extremely happy I have never had the issues any of you have described,lol. I've been lucky enough to just throw it underneath the tunnel bolt up the front lift up the rear while someone else puts the bolt in and be done with on every snowmobile I've ever had.

I can't imagine fighting all of this stuff for a rear skid. Guess I am lucky in retrospect!
 
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