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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Taking out my axle this weekend and have never removed a skid before. What are the steps involved?
 

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if your just removing the rear axle for whatever reason, simply loosen the adjusters for the track tension, remove the axle nut, and pull the axle.

if you want to pull the skid, there are only 6 bolts that hold it in. again, start by loosening the rear axle and the track adjusters, raise the rear of the sled so the track is just off the ground and work your way forward with the bolts. rear 2 first, middle 2 next and the front last. that is 2 per side for location.

the front 2 bolts will be accessable after removing the plastic plugs from the belly pan.

an impact wrench, air or electric, will be your friend for bolt removal. there are some tricks to overcome the spinning crosshafts when a bolt wants to come out on one side only.

when the skid is free from the tunnel, its just a matter of wrestling it out of the track to remove. it likes to hang up in the track's inner lugs so a pry bar or extra hands may help.
 

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I find that setting the skid on 3/4" pipe helps when you are sliding it out, and for when you are putting it back in for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is for the front axle as it needs replacing. Everybody tells me that the skid needs to come out in order to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Drive shaft where the 4 cogs are. I have the 5 back suspension bolts off but the front left bolt (under the secondary) just keeps turning. How do I get that one off? Also I cannot get the snap ring off in the chaincase for the axle. I want to replace the bearing there as well as the snap ring and seal. Does the entire chaincase have to come off or just the cover to get the snap ring, bearing and seal off?
 

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I am pretty sure you will have to take the entire chain case to access this. Replace the other bearing as well, it doesn't have chaincase oil to keep it lubed, so it wears out faster.
 

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Drive shaft where the 4 cogs are. I have the 5 back suspension bolts off but the front left bolt (under the secondary) just keeps turning. How do I get that one off? Also I cannot get the snap ring off in the chaincase for the axle. I want to replace the bearing there as well as the snap ring and seal. Does the entire chaincase have to come off or just the cover to get the snap ring, bearing and seal off?
chaincase needs to come off. pay attention to the collars behind the gears. theres a thin one and a thick one. be sure and loosen the bolts and nuts on the gears before removing the brake caliper. brake can be used to hold tension when removing hardware.

brake caliper needs to come off to get the chain case off. remove it as a unit and roll it out of the way. watch for the keyway on the brake caliper.

as for the last bolt, put the one back in on the opposite side and slip the open end of a 12mm end wrench between the bolt and the frame and tighten it up. then go to the last bolt you couldnt get out and see if it will move now. air or electric rattle gun is alot quicker.

bearings are pretty much pressed into the chaincase and with the proper snap ring pliers you will get the ring out. if you dont have a bearing puller, a correct sized socket and a few taps will free the bearing from the case. dont damage the case!

dont forget the 2 torx set screws on the clutch side driveshaft bearing.

blue loctite all bolts before reassembling, including the lower gear bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As it stands now, the chaincase cover is off, the two gears, chain and collars are off as well. Just cannot get the snap rings off (I bought snap ring pliars, still no luck). Do I now remove the enitire chain case, brake, parking brake or can I work on getting the snap rings off and pull the bearings? Still unclear why I have to take the rest of the case off. I am just trying to get the drive axle out of there.
 

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the drive shaft simply will not come out with the chaincase still mounted. there is just not enough room.

again, remove the brake caliper as a unit. there is only 2 bolts that hold it on. there should be 4 bolts holding the back half of the chaincase to the frame. once these are removed, the brake disc will come off with the chaincase.

if you havent already, the speedo cover needs to come off. its behind the secondary clutch, a goldish colored round plate with 3 12mm nuts. unscrew the cable first.

as mentioned previously, there are 2 set screws on the bearing on the clutch side. this bearing needs to move free on the driveshaft or slid out the bearing cover hole in order to have enough room to remove the driveshaft.

once your to this point, slide the driveshaft all the way to the clutch side and it will just clear the tunnel at the chaincase side and come out, and it barely clears. then you will see why the case had to be removed.

if you are changing the lower bearing in the chaincase, again, its a tight fit and needs to be pushed out from the backside. impossible to do on the sled with the driveshaft in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay. I got everything apart. Thanks for your help. May need some help soon putting it all back together. Do the snap rings for the bearings have to be at the 6 o'clock position, or does it matter? Also the jackshaft bearing and seal looks good. When I take the collar off, I can see the ball bearings. should I put some gear oil in there before assembling back together?
 

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the snap ring just goes in, doesnt matter which way it points. however, take a close look at it. if one edge is sharp and the other is rounded, face the sharp edge out.

not sure i fully understand your jackshaft bearing question. are you referring to the one upper one in the chaincase? if so, you can actually put some grease on that bearing as well as the lower one. gear oil would be a good substitute. dont forget the blue loctite on the lower gear bolt.

be sure and check the o-ring style seal thats inside both those bearings where the shaft comes through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am referring to the bearing on the jackshafy that has the collar that has a seal in the middle of the collar. If I take the collar off, I can see the bearing roll around the bearing.
 
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