when it dies, does it start right back up or does it need to cool off a bit before starting?
99' Vmax 500 Issues
I have a 99 vmax 500, I recently went riding with it and had a problem, first time i went i got about 8 miles down the trail sled ran great then out of nowhere just shut off as I was going down the trail, second time i went about 20 miles did the same thing. So I decided to take apart carbs and clean them so i did. Then, tonight i went out riding and guess what... I went 12 miles sled died again. When the sled dies it loses power a little and then just plain dies, engine seems a little hot, but not to bad, and it wont start up again after. Any Help??? :dunno:
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It doesnt start back up, i just tried to start it up about 20min ago and its not even trying to start, even when it isnt hot
Ok i just went outside pulled it over a few more times....still nothing so i pulled the plugs to find out there is no fuel getting to the motor. So was this possibly a fuel problem? If so maybe the filter?
your original symptoms sounded like a stator going out. the lack of fuel changes the game. have you done a spark test? lets go basic and work up from there.
yea it seemed like the spark plugs were firing correctly when i tested them but when i put some gas in the cylinder and tried firing it up the sled wouldnt even try
if you have a warm place to test and a descent electrical multimeter, i will look up the stator specs. the lack of fuel throws a curve on the diagnoses.
yes, i do have a warm place to test and a multimeter
find the connector in the main harness coming from the mag. should be right near the carbs hiding under a black rubber cover. disconnect it, be careful not to hurt any wires or the plug as they like to stick together.
for the stator output, attach the multimeter leads to the white/green wire lug in the plug and the white/red. meter set at ohmsX10 or 1, spec is 210 ohms at 68*F, +/- 10%. see what you get and report back.
for the stator output, attach the multimeter leads to the white/green wire lug in the plug and the white/red. meter set at ohmsX10 or 1, spec is 210 ohms at 68*F, +/- 10%. see what you get and report back.
Ok, thanks for the specs i will check it out tomorow or sunday and get back to you once i find out
Out of curiosity just to make me feel a little better, i have a 94' vmax 500 that i use for parts do you know if the stator on that would fit or do i just plain have to buy a new one.
Ok i just ran test on stator i got .2 on the wires.... But i think more is going on i also ran a compression test i got 90 in one side and 0 on the non- clutch side, i know the tester is working correctly becuase i tried it on my zr700 after and it worked perfect
0 doesnt sound to good. looks like you need to dig a little deeper.
as for the stator, the 94 may work along with the flywheel as a set, but you may have difficulty timing it as the pickup coils are completely different.
as for the stator, the 94 may work along with the flywheel as a set, but you may have difficulty timing it as the pickup coils are completely different.
Ok, i just took the motor completely apart, the piston with 0 was completely stratched, scored and was just beat, the side with 90 has a couple of gashes not to bad, but to the point where it needs to be replaced i took both pistons out and plan on replacing them. Any idea what would have caused that
hard to say without seeing the pistons. if by "just beat" on the one piston you mean there are alot of pits or gouges on the top, that usually indicates detonation from poor fuel, or air or water ingestion.
No i mean a bunch of gashes on the sides of the piston on both the tops are perfect
the location of the gashes will tell alot. on the intake side is usually an indication of water or snow ingestion. on both the intake and exhaust sides would indicate a lack of oil. all the way around the piston is a sign of worn rings or a worn cylinder.
Yes its all the way around the piston, i think it might be the rings so im going to replace both pistons, rings, pins, and bearings. Then im gonna hoane out the cylinder and clean it up again
make sure and have the cylinders checked. if you just re-ring worn cylinders, the problem will occur again.
also, your cylinders are nicasil plated. make sure to factor that in your honing/cleaning procedure.
also, your cylinders are nicasil plated. make sure to factor that in your honing/cleaning procedure.
Ok when i put the cylinders and heads back on what are the torque specs. for the top end
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