[Torch_Ind]

I just got a 98 zr 500 and the previous owner says it's got a clutch kit in it but was done by a previous owner before he got it.

honestly it rocks for slow trail 0-60mph but i feel over rev's badly past 60mph.

it will spike at 9000rpm and hard fuel will do a constant 8500rpm

the weights say 46.5 on them on the primary and the spring is yellow . the secondary is yellow spring as well and is in the center hole for tension. i can get pic later if required.

I want to play with it as I'm not overly happy with it top end power or speed.

just want to get some feed back on peoples set ups that work better then this.

machine is stock pipes. and has studded track.

 

[RJ Gleason]

Move the secondary spring anchor to the #2 hole to lower the peak rpm.

 

[Mr_ZR]

Same problem with my 00 ZR 600

I had this same problem last year with my 00 ZR 600 EFI. I found my primary clutch weights were worn beyond the bushings allowing the primary clutch not to function as required. I found this by a suggestion RJ made. He stated to mark both clutch shieves with a marker internally so you could see how well your clutches were shifting. Replaced the weights only to find one of the spider rollers failed 500 miles later and wrecked the primary weights again. Bottom line, inspect your primary clutch. I ended up replacing the 9 tower with a 6 tower, put a new yellow/white spring in with factory 48.5 weights. The 48.5 weights are factory for the 600 not sure for the 500?

In addition, I needed to anchor my secondary spring one spot towards the engine, position #2, as RJ mentioned. I was pulling 9500 RPM, or more until I made this adjustment. Like you, 65 MPH at 9500 RPM frustraided. After moving the anchor one position the tach goes to 7800 RPM and runs up to 8200 RPM from 0 to 85 MPH. Beyond 85 MPH the tach stays at 8200 RPM, but the sled isn't pulling quit as hard. Still 100 is easily obtainable.

This year I've actually been playing with removing some of the secondary shims to have the belt ride higher on the secondary. With all of these tweaks this little 600 is so lively my ZR 900 sits. 500 miles on the 600, and 12 miles on the 900 this year. My 600 will keep up with the 900 beyond 60 MPH. Get your clutching correct, these little ZR's are amaizing machines.

Good Luck!

 

[Torch_Ind]

I'm going to try some of the mentioned. I cleaned some of my clutches up but haven't had much time and it's been -30 -40 the past week lol so wrenching is way to cold unless I get a 1h here there at work with it.

I have done a few things now and still want to clean all the weights moving points and re-grease them to make 100% there moving the way they should.

 

[RJ Gleason]

Do not grease any part of the clutch!
They are supposed to run dry, lubricants tend to attract and hold grime which will cause binding.

 

[kccats]

Yep and will get on the belt! Sand the sheves and blow them out real good!

 

[Torch_Ind]

lol it wasn't going to be like chassis grease I have this spray on stuff that isn't sticky just make the pivot points slippery.

 

[RJ Gleason]

Do not use!!!
There is a special dry lube that is designed for clutches only.

 

[jwaldmann89]

Is the dry lube graphite? Or something else special?

I was at the stealership yesterday and noticed they didn't have any clutch lube, I just put new rollers and spring in my secondary, all I did was clean the clutches with carb cleaner and left it as is.

 

[Torch_Ind]

Is the dry lube graphite? Or something else special?

I was at the Dealership yesterday and noticed they didn't have any clutch lube, I just put new rollers and spring in my secondary, all I did was clean the clutches with carb cleaner and left it as is.

no not graphite. it's more like a silicone spray goes on wet and dries to a slippery kind of deal don't remember what it's called. I don't like graphite it is chalky..

I use it at work for brake components it stays clean and slippery for quite a while and is meant for brakes so it doesn't cause problems with it getting on the brakes!!

 

[Torch_Ind]

I had this same problem last year with my 00 ZR 600 EFI. I found my primary clutch weights were worn beyond the bushings allowing the primary clutch not to function as required. I found this by a suggestion RJ made. He stated to mark both clutch shieves with a marker internally so you could see how well your clutches were shifting. Replaced the weights only to find one of the spider rollers failed 500 miles later and wrecked the primary weights again. Bottom line, inspect your primary clutch. I ended up replacing the 9 tower with a 6 tower, put a new yellow/white spring in with factory 48.5 weights. The 48.5 weights are factory for the 600 not sure for the 500?

In addition, I needed to anchor my secondary spring one spot towards the engine, position #2, as RJ mentioned. I was pulling 9500 RPM, or more until I made this adjustment. Like you, 65 MPH at 9500 RPM frustraided. After moving the anchor one position the tach goes to 7800 RPM and runs up to 8200 RPM from 0 to 85 MPH. Beyond 85 MPH the tach stays at 8200 RPM, but the sled isn't pulling quit as hard. Still 100 is easily obtainable.

This year I've actually been playing with removing some of the secondary shims to have the belt ride higher on the secondary. With all of these tweaks this little 600 is so lively my ZR 900 sits. 500 miles on the 600, and 12 miles on the 900 this year. My 600 will keep up with the 900 beyond 60 MPH. Get your clutching correct, these little ZR's are amaizing machines.

Good Luck!

UPDATE

I left the secondary alone for now but cleaned up my clutches and it does exactly as you say now 8200rpm tops!! pulls to 90mph on the speedo fairly easy!! I'm much happier anyway. I still think the carbs could have a bit of tuning for throttle response. I sometimes get a sputter but it could also be I'm just getting the engine out of it's power band range..

works much better anyway can't complain!! I also found a few bad "wobbly" wheels in the track that need changed "prob just the bearings"

have done roughly 200miles on it so far. money and time two main issues lol

Later

 

[Mr_ZR]

Great Job!

I bet you're amazed at this point on how significant the clutch adjustments can result in performance!

I agree with everyone else; do not use lubrication of any kind for either clutch. I just blow the initial dust off with the air hose, disassemble, and then use rags to wipe the rest off.

I had one of my track wheels wobble this year as well. It turned out the nylock loosened so the bolt came loose allowing the whole unit to wobble. Thankfully, I watch for these things prior to riding each time so it did not wear anything beyond use. 1 new nylock with the bolt back to tight and has ridden just fine since.

2000 ZR 600 EFI 1206 miles and counting
2004 ZR 900 EFI 22 miles and counting
1998 ZL 500 Carb 616 miles and counting

 

[dboivin]

for stock clutch parts/settings, i bookmarked this page. this should help someone.

1998 DRIVE SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

 

[BC_Dan]

Alpha Sports is great for the guys south of the border, the prices listed are US. If you're up north in Canada, use

Brown's Leisure World - Arctic Cat Parts Online

Browns prices are Canadian, ehh?

 

[Torch_Ind]

I bet you're amazed at this point on how significant the clutch adjustments can result in performance!

I agree with everyone else; do not use lubrication of any kind for either clutch. I just blow the initial dust off with the air hose, disassemble, and then use rags to wipe the rest off.

I had one of my track wheels wobble this year as well. It turned out the nylock loosened so the bolt came loose allowing the whole unit to wobble. Thankfully, I watch for these things prior to riding each time so it did not wear anything beyond use. 1 new nylock with the bolt back to tight and has ridden just fine since.

didn't' make any adjustments just cleaned the clutches still have to tackle the wobbly wheels. just noticed the wheels. one thing at a time.. I want to enjoy it while I can and do the wrenching when the snow melts.

 

[Torch_Ind]

for stock clutch parts/settings, i bookmarked this page. this should help someone.

1998 DRIVE SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

thanks from this I see the primary is stock? maybe the guy who sold it to the owner before me lied saying it was clutched.
only other thing I can check is the secondary cam

but it's way better now that I cleaned the clutches anyway.. could probably do a better job then I have done to. just wanted to ride!!!

also I put a new dayco belt on it! any feed back on dayco belts? I know back in the early 90's they were better then the cat belts at least on my dads wildcat and my ext they were much better belt.. I have heard people say they suck buy a cat belt. but since i cleaned up my clutches it seems fine can't see a reason not to use my dayco belt now.. would also be a waist of cash for me at the moment to just toss it aside to replace with a cat belt!!!

 

[BC_Dan]

I make it a habit not to fix things that are working fine. I learned that a long time ago Run the dayco until it's worn out!

 

[Torch_Ind]

I make it a habit not to fix things that are working fine. I learned that a long time ago Run the dayco until it's worn out!

:thumbsup: :laugh:

yup true enough. season is almost over I will use it till then and see how it goes next winter.. your right it is working fine for me.. I'm not snow-crossing it or anything I'm just aggressively running trails.

I think I will tackle my idler wheels and anything else I find on the way there..