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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys n gals bit of a newbie here so I apologize if this post rambles a bit!
20200210_142759.jpg


Bought my 97 indy xcr se 600 triple from a buddy of mine about a month ago for $500. He bought it from a guy that runs a small repair shop out of his garage and does alot of drag racing, so he knows his way around these Polaris's..my buddy bought it and ran it one season, and then it sat in storage for 2-3 years untouched. It's got just under 4k miles on it and is in good overall shape for the year! I am having a few small issues with it though..let me start by saying I am not super familiar with carburetor's. I did yank them off and pull the float bowls and sprayed any passages I could get at but wasn't comfortable tearing any further into them and just reassembled them..sled seems to run decent but runs rich and smokes quite a bit, white smoke. I am not positive but i do believe it is jetted and has clutch work done to it(drive clutch spring is red).I have the idle set around 1500-1600 but sometimes when its revved up the rpms will hang for a bit then come down or I will have to blip the choke to get them to drop down, but it's very intermittent not every time. Plugs look brownish and a bit wet after riding but are not fouling?
I guess my main concerns are
A: why is it running so rich
B: why does it smoke so much
Running NGK BPR9ES plugs and klotz oil

For what it's worth I did pull the "drain plugs" out of the bottom of each cylinder and very little of anything came out

Sorry for the rambling and any help for this newbie is very much appreciated!
 

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First thing to do is learn to properly disassemble and clean the carbs. Round slide Mikunis are simple and if care is used, you probably won't need any parts to take them apart and put them back together.

What jets are in the carbs? Jetting depends on temperature and elevation. If the sled is jetted for cold temps and low elevations and you are riding it in warmer conditons and higher elevations, it will run rich. Check the jetting chart to make sure the jets are correct. Also, when you disassemble the carbs, check the choke plungers to make sure they are moving in the bore. A stuck plunger could make things run rich. Take a look at the seat on the bottom of the plunger to make sure it's not excessively worn and not making a good seal on the carb.

If you check out the "how to" part of the forum, there are several threads on how to disassemble and clean the round slide carbs. If you have problems, post on up. Cleaning carbs is a yearly ritual for most of us!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply BC_Dan

I am not positive that it deff is jetted, I just assumed from knowing a little bit about the original guy who "worked" the sled before my buddy bought it and his drag racing background. If it infact is jetted it would be jetted for my area as I live in the same general area as the guy who would've done it. I guess to be sure I will just have to tear them apart again, fully this time. I assumed if I had a clogged jet it'd consistently run like crap..the carbs were fairly clean when I cracked them open the first time which is why I didnt feel I needed to get any deeper into it, but I guess that's the only way I'll learn. So the wetness on my plugs IS due to it running rich then? And that could also explain the excessive smoke? My coolant levels aren't dropping excessively or anything so I'm assuming/hoping it's not a head gasket issue causing the smoke.
 

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Welcome
Once you get the carb cleaned and the choke correct it will all of a sudden take off like a raped ape and it wont smoke quite as bad but it will smoke that is a good thing!
Let the smoke LIVE!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey guys,

pulled all 3 carbs off today and cleaned them and checked the jets. Everything appears stock jet wise, I found the following

PTO/CEN/MAG
Main-360/380/380
Pilot-40/40/40
Needle jet- All p-6 247
Jet Needle- All 6CEY6-4


Center carb main jet was slightly plugged off but not entirely, other then that everything looked good jet wise but I sprayed everything out anyways and double checked everything. One concern I have is what I found in the center carb with the needle seat valve..not sure if this was like this or if I did it trying to remove the pin
from the float arm but one of the ears the pin goes through is cracked, not busted loose just cracked, it still functions and looks worse then it is but still concerning for sure!
65001


Other then that, after reassembling and setting the air screws at stock (1/2 turn) and the idle air screws 2 turns out to start( final adjustment came out to 3 1/4 turns out) she's purring!

Idling at 1600 when warmed up and idle isn't hanging anymore, will get some new plugs for it just for shits n gig's being those ones kept getting wet..currently has NGK'S in it, was thinking of putting stock champions in to see if there is any difference..thoughts on that?

Next question is what is the purpose of changing the drive clutch spring? Mine is red(not sure about the weights) and almost positive that's not stock, RPM engagement is still right around stock engagement from what I've researched though(4500)?

Thanks for the input and looking forward to learning more from you guys, hopefully without annoying ya with all my questions lol
 

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You need to replace that center carb as that part will break sooner rather then later with all the vibrations. Used carbs are not that expensive. Also 4500 is a little high for that sled. You want it at around 4100 to at max 4400. Polaris Browse shows an Almond which is 140-330lb ratings. Most likely that is a Speedworks spring and the ratings on it are 155-300lb rating. Someone wanted to up the engagement while dropping down the Rpm's on it to a lower level. Problem is he went a bit too high on the 1st number which is what controls the engagement and the 2nd rating controls how many Rpm's the engine will max out at. Go back to the Polaris Almond or a SLP 40-71 which is 140-320LB rating and will also be cheaper then Polaris but close enough that it will engagement lower and still come close to the max Rpm's it can go to safely. Stock Weights are 10-54 which are 54 gram weights. Secondary should also be looked at as well. Replace the secondary buttons every 2000 miles or so, clean the helix and the stock spring in there is a Gold Spring which is 24-49 and is a good spring to use but now they come in black which is the same LB rating but a different part number which is 7041782.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Stock engagement is 4800 +/- 300..so its actually engaging on the lower end..
65003
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do agree about replacing the carb, it's on my soon to-do list for sure. As far as tearing into the clutches and getting familiar with them and cleaning them up that will probably be my summer project, along with possibly taking the skid off to adjust the rear suspension. This sled is all over the place steering wise(gonna look into new carbides for it) and the ass end kicks out when ya get on it. so I'm thinking the weight transfer is off being the front rear shock is preloaded about 2/3 of the way up and I am about half the weight of the previous owner..am I right in assuming removing some of this preload will help with ski pressure and weight transfer? Unfortunately it's the type with a snap ring and not the threaded type so I assume I'll have to take the skid off to adjust? I've already adjusted the rear spring tension blocks from medium to low, I will see if that helps before doing anything else with suspension, but any information on adjustments that may help is appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I started the sled up today, it shot right up to 4k rpms and hung there till I blipped the choke, I dont get it, she purred beautifully the other day after I did the carb cleaning n adjusting. While running I sprayed the carb boots, head and intake gasket and no change in rpms. Pulled the plugs, they are black and wet(same plugs as before, I havent gotten new yet but they were more brownish before instead of black) this is driving me bonkers! I am not familiar with how to check/adjust the choke cables or synch the carbs..is this something I should check before doing anything else more drastic?
 

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As someone who worked at the Polaris dealer during those years. I never had a sled leave our showroom or mechanics with a engagement of 4800. Putting that much engagement on that sled and clutch is crazy. I had a '97 Ultra SPX and it was at 4700 with stock Almond spring and did a complete rebuild on the entire clutch setup from the ground up. Even the Polaris techs up here when I was redoing my Ultra said the same things that the Almond was overkill and would cause issues when they were new. The one guy who had been at Polaris for 30 years at that point said he would pull them out new and put in one lower because the engagement was too high. I did a full rebuild, balancing one lower spring from Polaris and secondary EPI Quad Angle Helix and I used a EPI Secondary Spring. Polaris is not known for their primary clutches period, the balancing is off from factory and that is fact. I can't tell you the number of clutches we pulled off brand new sleds and sent in to the local shop near us for balancing and then we would send the bill to Polaris.

Just a FYI is all but if it was my sled I wouldn't be pushing it that high
 

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Agree
As for weight transfer having the front skid shock tight is a must
What you are looking for is the skis to Unload (rise about 6")
And for the skid to stay flat, this will mean the rear will drop
The rear going where ever means you have no studs!
The skid can be adjusted in the sled!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That makes sense but how exactly do I get the ski's to unload? As for the studs not sure I believe that, plenty of sleds out there without studs I doubt they all fish tail like this one is..something is off with it:unsure:
 

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Just about every sled I have ever ridden without studs has had issues on the trails or ice with losing grip in straightaways and when in turns it was even worse regardless of manufacture. That sled is basically the same as what I had and it didn't have studs when I bought it. I rode it once for about 20 miles and took it home because it was all over the place. I immediately went online and ordered 144 studs for it, new plastic skis as the ones on there were shot and matching 8" carbides for the skis. Those 2 things made a massive improvement, I wasn't fish tailing all over the place anymore nor was I losing grip anymore. I was finally able to put power down without spinning the track so badly.

One of the guys here I just helped has a 2000 ZL 500 which doesn't have the power yours does and he couldn't control it out on the trail. He now has 96 1"carbide studs installed in it for when he rides it next. He was fish tailing all over the place and had issues controlling it. Now he won't next time he goes out.

The way the trails are these days without studs you are going to fish tail and you are going have issues controlling the rear. Every person I know in RL has studs in their tracks unless they are using paddle tracks and going mountain riding.
 

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Coolhand has it right. Studs and carbides are needed for control. Nothing beats control of the sled when your safety is at risk.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I hear ya, as cheap as it sounds I just hate to pour money into this thing as it's only worth $600 bucks and not a sled I intend to keep forever..next year I intend to upgrade and MAY keep this around for a couple more years as a secondary toy, I guess I was just hoping I could come up with a cheap quick fix, like a suspension adjustment ,to improve it at least a little..thanks for the info!
 

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In my experience with unstudded sleds over the years, the best you can do is to put some agressive carbides on the front. That way you can steer it at least. Put some 6" carbides on it. Just don't follow anyone too closely as you'll never stop it in time. I have a broken taillight to prove it too from a guy behind me this year !

Steve
 

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Idk where you are at but around here in season in that condition, with good compression, the fox shocks on it you would get at least 900 if not closer to 1200 from the right person depending on the miles of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am in ny..it does have the fox shocks but I believe only books for about 6
 

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Doesn't matter what it books for what matters is what you can get for it. What people are willing to pay for in your area. I have seen sleds that book for 600-800 and go for 1400-1700. Nada book has its uses but sometimes it isn't right.
 
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