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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a 96 xcr with 5000 miles on it. Last season it started to bog down. It runs fine for the first mile or so. Then it looses all power. It wouldn’t go above 25ish mph. It doesn’t seem to want to go over 6000 rpms. If I baby it for about 15 seconds then I can get it to go over 6000 rpms for about 5 seconds before it Boggs back down. I pulled all 3 carbs and cleaned them and also replaced the fuel filter and fuel lines except for the pickup line in the tank but it is still the same.
What would you guys recommend to look at.
 

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Are you sure it is getting enough fuel? Fuel pump if it is original should be replaced, the pickup line in the tank can cause issues as over time they rot. The clutch has it EVER been rebuilt? Secondary clutch buttons replaced? Primary and Secondary springs by now should have been replaced twice. Those were out and it depends on how hard you ride...every 2000 miles give or take. The primary buttons could be worn out.

You said you clean the carbs, did you clean all the jets with a small piece of wire? Even the smallest piece of varnish can cause problems. I would replace the fuel pump, make sure the line in the tank is pulling fuel like it should, clean the carbs including every passage with said piece of small wire, then replace the buttons in the secondary clutch, clean up the helix and if you can afford it replace the spring. From there I would look at the primary clutch weights & buttons. And if you rebuild it or want someone to rebuild it make sure they replace the primary spring & re-balance it or it will be out of balance and possibly cause issues. Indy specialities will do all of that for you if you send in your primary clutch.
 

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another thing to consider.. could be electrical. Next time it happens, stop and pull one plug wire at a time to see if the idle changes. If you pull a wire and theres no change in idle, that cylinder isn't contributing.

You can also check for spark on all cylinders as well.

It may not hurt to remove the plug boot from the plug wires and snip off about 1/4" and screw the boot back on. While the boot is off, look at the connection to see if the screw is bright. If it's not, get a new boot. Most auto supply places have 'em.
 

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Yep another good thing to check. Those caps are known to break or just wear out over time. I've had them break on me while out riding, just cut a small piece off and a new cap good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ll look at the clutches and the fuel pump and pickup line. I will also check if it’s running on one cylinder and check spark. But the fact that it runs fine for a mile or so makes me think that it’s not the carbs. Why would the clutches work fine for a while then stop. Also I drove it yesterday for a couple miles then we stopped for 5 minutes. It worked fine after we stopped for another mile then it just lost power again.
 

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Look through the carbs and exhaust ports and look at the pistons. My guess is busted piston skirt.
 

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My XLT did exactly what you're describing and the PTO piston had a broken skirt.

Another possibility is simply water in the fuel that turns to ice in the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked the piston skirts and fuel pump and everything is good there. I was driving it yesterday and when we were in the ditches in deeper powder it wouldn’t go over 25 and had no power. If I would drive up on the shoulder for a while and get more speed up I could go through big drifts and had lots of power but if I slowed down I wouldn’t be able to get any more power. When I took it out on the trails was fine and had as much power as ever.
I think that my problem is with the clutches because I only had problems in deep snow. I also smelled some burning rubber when I was riding the ditches. What would you guys recommend doing with the clutches. I’ve read that there is a lot of tools involved with rebuilding a clutch and I don’t know if I just need a new spring or if I need a rebuild kit or if the problem is in the secondary.
 

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You can take the clutch face off to replace weights or the spring on the primary with no special tools. To tear down the rest, you will need a good clutch holding fixture, a spider tool, and a spider nut tool to disassemble and a really good torque wrench to assemble, as the torque to put things back together is 200 lbs.ft for the spider and 200 for the jamb nut. Make sure if you remove the clutch cover that you reinstall it so that the X's on the cover aligns with the X on the spider to retain the clutch balance.

The secondary is pretty easy to disassemble, and doesn't require any special tools, although a clutch press makes things a bit easier for both.

If you tear into these, it's pretty helpful to have a manual to guide you, pretty much any Polaris snowmobile manual has the steps to disassemble. Polaris used that design of the P85 primary and secondary over a bunch of years. There are manuals online in a lot of places.
 

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Stay with the stock weights, nothing really can improve those on that engine.

For the secondary spring go to a Polaris Gold or Black they are the same thing, same lb rating. For the primary go to a SLP 40-66 black which is 120-300. I tried a team industries 120-310 but it was just too much on the top end. I have also run 125-280 EPI but it was too much on the engagement and too harsh. I run those in mine with good results the main difference with mine is I run a EPI Quad Helix QA-2 with SLP Slippery Buttons. That helix makes a world of difference with 4 different angles to shift through. At this point I have at least 10-15 different combinations and I have settled on the SLP and Polaris Gold with Slippery buttons. I only use those because they last a lot longer but are 8 bucks a piece and "supposedly" they slide better on the helix not leaving as much residue, tbh IDK if that is true or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I ordered a new primary spring without looking at clutch very hard and now that it arrived I found a small crack on the clutch face that starts at the shaft and goes outward about 3/4 of an inch. I know that the crack is really bad but would that have caused the bog.
What would you recommend doing to fix it. I don’t know if it’s even worth it on this old sled. Can I get a replacement clutch or do I just get a used one.
 

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You can buy a replacement clutch face on eBay. But if you do then you "might" to have it re-balanced to be safe, I honestly don't know as I have never just replaced a clutch cover, maybe Dan can say yes or no or KC as well. You can buy a new or used clutch as well. There is also a clutch up on eBay for 50 bucks obo for parts as well. It is possible on the bog as it could be flexing, hard to really know. Either way you can't run it like that. I would also check locally for a used clutch cover as well.



I'm sure there are others I missed.

However knowing a lot of the people here I am sure someone has a used clutch cover they could send you for cheap. I don't unfortunately as all I have is the one spare clutch that is setup for my 3 sleds as they have all the same weights & springs in them.

Also call Al's Salvage yards out east. They carry a TON of used parts!

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry I meant the clutch sheaves that the belt rides on. Not the clutch face
Thanks for answering so fast though
 

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Ooooo yikes, then yeah you need a new or used clutch,lol. With a rebuild if it is used, and then if its new or used a balancing job on it. I would call indy specialities, ask them how does he want to do this meaning does he want to rob the old clutch of the weights, use your new spring and then he can use his rebuild kit, balance it and send you out your new clutch to put on. He might even have some he could put on yours if you had him rebuild it with your spring and his rebuild parts. He is a heck of a guy and will work with customers.

 

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Definitely time for a different clutch. When you are looking at them, be warned that there are differences from the clutch that is used on the triple engines of that era and the twins such as the 500 or 440... the taper where the clutch bolts to the clutch is the same but the offset is different. Using the wrong clutch can wipe out the PTO crank seal. Pretty much any clutch off of a triple Fuji should work fine. If you find one on Ebay or elsewhere, it is not a problem to remove the cover and replace the spring and weights with the ones that are on your clutch. Balancing is a good thing but as long as you keep the x marks aligned on the cover and the spider, you will retain the factory balance (how ever good or bad that was...)
 
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