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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, just bought this 96 phazer off a kid that needed the cash, it's in kinda rough shape but thought it would be fun to play in the yard with, the kid told me the right carb had a sticky needle valve but said it ran good once it warmed up, as soon as i got it i fired it up and found that it was only running on one cylinder unless you feathered the throttle some then the second one would kick in.. i checked the plugs after running it awhile and found the left one looked great and the right one was wet and dark.. this morning i pulled the carbs off, took them apart to clean them but they both actually looked pretty good, one was missing a rubber plug that i replaced, put them back on and fired it up and it seemed pretty good, still had to feather throttle a little to get it going, but just a little, ran much better.. so i run to town and get more gas, fill it up, now it runs like crap, wont run at all with choke off. the line running from the fuel pump to the engine block is full of gas, took it off and turned the motor over until no more gas was spitting out of the block, does this mean the fuel pump is junk? or should i still be looking at the carbs? sorry for the lengthy post but wanted all the info there, any help would be greatly appreciated...
 

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more times than not you have a pluged carb (or carbs) if you have to run it w/the choke on !! i would re-check the carbs ! make sure the plugs in the bottom are
in the proper place.
 

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i would key on the carbs first paying special attention to the floats and the needles/seats. i am no fuel pump expert, but i have never seen one bleed through and fill the case with fuel, unless theres a bad seal in the case creating a natural vacuum.
dont know how far it was to town and back but in theory it would take several hours to gravity feed through the fuel pump enough to fill the crankcase. i have seen carbs with stuck floats or open needles flood the system in minutes.
 

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Here, Here.. to the previous two feedbacks. You will find at this site, "clean the carbs", mentioned universally. It can be a hard lesson to learn, but make sure needles move freely, make sure there are no clogs, make sure black plugs are in correct jets, make sure floats are same height. I stopped assuming and make sure when I pull my carbs to spend the extra time and go thru them. If the sled was in sorta rough shape, the previous owner probably started it when there was snow, and parked it where ever at the end of the season. Then the next season he likely started it up again from where he parked it. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
appreciate all the quick replies, i wish internet forums were available 15 years ago for my last sled nightmares :) Turns out the fuel pump had a tear in the diaphram, so when i filled the tank all the way up the extra fuel line pressure forced fuel to back-flow into the crankcase, so i replaced that and solved the issues for the last part of my original post, it runs with choke off now.. it's still not idling on both cylinders, takes some feathering of the throttle and rpm to get the right one to kick in, waiting for the sun to come up right now, was advised to check spark on that side to make sure it's not weak, and to check compression to be sure i don't have broken rings. as for the carbs, i did completely disassemble them, all jets look like new and i swapped needles in the needle valves in case one was sticky, soaked everything in carb cleaner, replace a rubber plug on the right carb to match the left which is operating well, and checked the floats for cracks/leaks, I've also been replacing that right spark plug with a new one after every attempt to rule out a fouled plug. I'll post results this afternoon, and thanks again for taking the time to reply.. this thing wants to look just like phazer36's sig pic :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok, another update, i reset both adjustment screws on the top of the carbs to 1 1/2 turns, then switched the lines from the pump to the carbs, now the thing starts and idles good, takes off ok at 1/4 throttle, will run about 20/25 mph fine, but no more.. just like the guy in this post actually...

http://www.snowmobileforum.com/yamaha-snowmobiles/56874-91-phazer-problems.html


as for the rubber plugs i have both pilot jets exposed and other two holes plugged, plugs both look nice n tan, no more flooding on right cylinder.. what you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
will do, i seem to be running one one cylinder again, now the right instead of left, gonna go get hose clamps and permatex today and make sure all hoses and boots have tight seals, also borrowing compression tester, i'll post results
 

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just tossing it out, have you checked the reeds? spark plug boots?

seems a bit odd its swapping cylinders on you. plug boot contacting intermittently as your changing the plugs? or the reed condition is upsetting fuel equalization?

try putting some thick rubber or leather gloves on and wiggling the caps while its running.
 

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I'm wondering if your coil is going out. I just replaced one last night on my Phazer. Mine would drop a cylinder as I was riding. Then when I'd shut down, it would not start again. It sounds like the coil is not sending a strong enough signal to the caps, so only one cylinder fires. I'd check reading with volt meter. I'd bet thats the problem. I don't know what else would cause cylinders to go back and forth cutting out.
 

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The reading is in Ohm's. The reading you should be getting is 1.16 to 1.42 ohm. Check that thru the Brown and Black wire coming off the stator.
 

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hi I realize this is an older thead but I had a 86 phazer and my brother had a 85. We both had that problem and narrowed it down to the wires that are below the oil tank. Sometimes oil gets spilled a bit and over time it affects the wires. What i did with mine is I got down in there with rags and injector cleaner spray. Cleaned and then dryed the wires with compressed air, then I sprayed ignition wire sealer on them. I think my brother did the same. It worked great. The only thing is it may have to be done again in a couple years.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
appreciate all the feedback, this place rox :) I've completely gone thru the carbs now and with the help of a local mechanic narrowed it down to an electrical issue, i was told the stator could cause these issues and phazer36 suggested it may be the coil, i did recrimp all the wires coming from the crankcase but i think I'll try yamagirls suggestion for going through those connections more aggressively, gotta dig out my voltmeter today to test the stator, anyone know how to test the voltage (or ohms, amps) going to and from the coil? phazer36 gave me the specs for the stator.. again apreciate all the help, thanks :) will post progress.

also looking for good cheap stator.. any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
put the tester on the brown and black wires coming from the stator, right about 1.47 ohms, would that be far enough off to cause a problem ya think?
 

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I know you've got to be sick of pulling the carbs, but things are pointing to the floats and needles. If you pull carbs and turn them upside down and remove bowls, the floats should be absolutly level. If they are even so much ass a 16th pivoted up then they are not operating properly with the needles. I cleaned my carbs and put them back on. But the sleb would only idle. When I'd throttle it it would die out, then recover. I shut down and pulled carbs, to find that the float was about an 8th inch out of adjustment.

When the sled idles, fuel is drawn into the bowls and out at a slower rate than when you squeeze the throttle. When the engine calls for more fuel, the floats cut off the needles too early and the bowl does not fill with the required amount of fuel, so the sled dies out, when you let off it recovers.

So I'd check to make sure the floats are level. Also the needles should move freely. You can turn them back upright and move the float with your finger and should beable to look up in there and see the needle slid.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
actually, let my niece putt around the yard on it yesterday, was doing about 20 as usual, the sound dies out as she went back down the trail, 10 min later she is screaming past the house doin about 60, she said it died back in the trail, she pulled a few times and it made a loud pop, she pulled again and it had power. anyways got another can of carb cleaner and a couple filters, gonna go through them this morning and check exhaust pipe for obstructions, the black and brown wires had 1.47 ohms, finally tested that, is it too for over the 1.42 spec?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Another update, bought new needle valves and seats, that seemed to be the problem with the engine, runs pretty damn good now.. ran it around for bout half an hour, was able to turn choke off and still ran fine, i did blow a belt on it, replaced that and got a ton more take off power, i was pumped! then somthing else happened, heard some bangin noises, engine died, now i can't get it to start, pull start is really hard to pull.. if i grab the primary clutch and turn it it turns easy, also checked the recoil and it seems fine, gonna tear into it today, see what i can find, thanks for all the help guys.. i'll report back
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok. bangin noise turned out to be a loose drive chain, fixed that.. the hard to pull thing is the primary clutch not releasing all the way, i sprayd the hell out of the clutch with carb cleaner, with t e belt off while revving the clutch seems to be sliding back n forth like it sposed to, i don't have the tools needed according to the manual to tear it apart and put a rebuild kit in, might hafta pay a mechanic to do that for me. Wanted to mention too that the needles n seats i replaced looked like new and seemed to work fine, but they obviously were not fine and replacing them was like the difference between night and day, i know i read alot of posts with folks reporting the same issues i was having, was only $30 and 20 min to fix.
 
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