Snowmobile Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can’t seem to find much info but I want to suck the oil out if possible without taking cover off. Can I adjust chain with cover on and what’s the preferred oil. Saw one YouTube video say use 90 w gear oil. Thanks
 

·
Registered
1995 Polaris XLT Touring
Joined
·
475 Posts
You could probably use a 1/4" tube hooked up to a plastic syringe or Siphon bulb, but really it's not that big a deal to remove the cover, get everything nice and cleaned out, inspect the gears, chain and tensioner and then seal it all up again. The gasket is pretty solid so if it's still in good shape it shouldn't need replacement if you're careful.

I used Royal Purple synthetic manual transmission fluid for mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
Your 95 machine should have a drain plug (with allen head insert) in the bottom of the chaincase accessed through a hole in bottom of bely pan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,377 Posts
I used Royal Purple synthetic manual transmission fluid for mine.
Bass I would be changing that as soon as the season is over! You should have used Polaris, Klotz or AMSOIL another Full Synthetic Chaincase oil. That is what they used from Factory even back then. You will have to change it every year or even twice a year if you use that stuff regardless of how good Royal Purple is and it is top notch but not the right kind of fluid for that case.

And yes it should have a drain plug like Steep said. Use Polaris, Klotz or AMSOIL or another Full Synthetic Chaincase oil as that is what is in it from Factory and what Polaris calls for to this day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info. Also what is the correct way to adjust the chain with the cover on. Thanks
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
18,112 Posts
For the non-reverse chaincase, loosen the jamb nut on the adjuster bolt on the front of the chaincase. Rotate the secondary forward to take the slack out of the chain. Tighten the adjuster bolt by hand until tight, then back off 1/4 turn. TIghten the jamb nut.

I like to get the covers off as well, it gives you a chance to examine the chain and clean out the junk that finds its way into all the nooks and crannies of the chaincase.

Thick oil such as 90 wt. is not appropriate for the chaincase. There is a chain and sprockets in the chaincase and the gear oil does not penetrate into the chain very well. Gear oil is also really thick and will rob power, especially when cold. If you think about it, the drive system is more like a transfer case. Using the correct gearcase fluid is preferred, but in a pinch, ATF will work fine. I use the Polaris stuff, one bottle will do two gear cases.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help. We drained them through the plug and refilled with ATF. Took them both to Michigan and put 175 miles on them in a day and a half. Ran great. Also adjusted the chain. Took almost two turns in to tighten then backed out just over 1/4 turn. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,377 Posts
Take that ATF out and put in the proper Chaincase oil from Polaris, Klotz or AMSOIL. ATF is not what they say to use and you won't get much use out of it in a snowmobile.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
18,112 Posts
This can be a really polar topic!

I know guys that have used ATF for years on their sleds. Nope, it's not recommended, but to be honest.. the chaincase is not very picky. As long as it's a thin oil (like ATF) and not thick like 90w, and changed regularly, the chaincase, chain, and sprockets will probably outlast the engine. If ATF can protect the sprockets and chain in my transfer case on my Duramax, it should be able to keep the chaincase happy. JMHO, mind you.

I even had a buddy that had a chaincase problem out on the snow and he lost all his fluid. We got him going using 2-stroke oil, as that was all we had in the truck. His intent was to change it out when he got back home, but he didn't get around to working on it. He left the 2-stroke oil in there for the remainder of the season! During the summer and after about 800 miles, he finally decided to get it repaired correctly. The chaincase was fine. The rest of the sled... well...

This has been a constant debate on a bunch of forums for a bunch of years (even here!) with no real "winner". I use Polaris Synthetic chaincase fluid. But if someone wants to use ATF, it's their sled, their cash. And the guys that I know that run it say that the inside of their chaincase is much cleaner than when they used chaincase fluid, so there is that. too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,377 Posts
Yep I will agree their snowmobile their money. Only snowmobiles that called for it from factory were the older Yamaha's back in the '80s and even then after so many years they switched to that kind of chaincase fluid. We had to change that ATF every single year in that '82 SS 440 we had because it just doesn't hold up in those cases. Ours was no cleaner then the stuff we use now. But we also don't let it go for years on end regardless of miles. Like anything else oil breaks down over time even if it doesn't have but maybe 500 miles on it but was last changed 10 years ago. I only drive 2,500-2,800 miles a year and use Full Synthetic oil in my Explorer but regardless every Fall which is about the time I hit that mileage I change it out. Not worth the hassle to me for 20 bucks of oil and a 3 dollar Wix Oil filter for a damaged engine especially in a Ford 4.0 and those timing gears. But I also buy oil filters by the case from Wix as those have proven to be the best oil filters hands down when you cut them open compared to anything out there except a Royal Purple one.

But yes it can be a very polar topic for sure. Some swear up and down you can use w/e you want in there with no issues including hydraulic fluid as some are just cheap and well you can see it by how they take care of their snowmobiles. Me I have always been pro-active in maintenance since I had it drilled into me as a kid. And over 28 years of driving and 42 years of snowmobiling it has served me well and saved me a ton of money vs some of my friends who run things till they break and then wonder why it cost them twice as much to fix something that only cost me a 1/4 or 1/3 to fix it because I fixed it as soon as it had so many miles on it or years.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top