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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Purchased recently, started & ran fine. Then went to pull start it, it would not go. Noticed snow go into the intake (The foam at the top of the air box is missing). Then it started and sputtered.

What I did recently before problems started
1. Changed out the ignition switch, brown wire first, then black wire next - never disconnected the battery.
2. Put in fresh gas.

What I checked after reading forums
1. The battery idle and underload is 12v. The ECU flashed a 14 code.
2. I ohmed out the temp sensor and it was 8.7. No broken wires to temp sensor, checked for continuity - good
3. Looked for any loose or broken, corroded wires anywhere
4. I assume no snow should go into the airbox, removed airbox and cleaned out the snow. Now I know for sure it should not be open - have covered it to not let anymore snow in.
5. I definitely flooded it with gas and snow. The pump works strong.

What I would like to know is - what damage has been done to the motor? and...How do I get the snow/water and excess gas out?

Seeking help as I am new to liquid cooled and EFI!
 

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i don't imagine you did any damage. I think I would pull the plugs and with the key off pull it over to clean what might be left out. It will spew out of the plug holes. Then I would put some seafoam in the fuel to lubricate and clean the system. Start it up and run it for a while to let it get good and warm and dissipate what water might remain. The 8.7 ohms is about right if the room temp was around 40degrees as that reading changes with the temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I will give it a try tomorrow. What is seafoam?
 

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its an all around carb,fuel injector, and whatever else fuel additive. comes in a red and white can. I use it in my sleds, boat, corvette, and lawnmowers. I would try it in the spaghetti sauce if I thought it would make me run better! HaHa. Get it at most auto parts stores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it running, thanks. Have not tried the seafoam, but will get some. Now I just need to get it to idle, thanks for your assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This idling problem stems from the original symptoms I already wrote about. The ECU flashes code 14 still. I can pull the plugs, then replace them - it will start (thank you for this tip), after running for awhile it will quit. It is flooding out! The person I bought it from said to switch the toggle located beside the ignition switch when starting - Is this a fuel enriching switch operating in essence like an electric choke? Could that be on and maybe flooding it if the engine is warm? I assumed it was a toggle for the hand warmers~!
 

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code 14 is the atmospheric pressure sensor...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not to question you, but I read on some posts, that it is the temp sensor. The ECU is reading a problem with the temp sensor, thus pumping in more fuel (cold start) even if it is hot. Please clarify. Also do you know if this toggle beside the ignition is a fuel enriching switch?
 

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there are two temp sensors code 12 which is the crankcase temp sensor and code 13 which is the intake air temp sensor, you said it is flashing code 14 which is the atmospheric pressure sensor. the switch on my sled is below the ignition and its my hand/thumb warmers
 

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sorry i was looking at my rxl codes and the atmospheric pressure sensor is only for rxls..your code 14 is the water temp sensor..sorry my mistake
 

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this might help in any situation with codes..

The ECU will display the code in the form of a blinking LED on the side of the ECU case in a coded sequence of long and short pulses.

Trouble Shooting Codes:
11. is the throttle position sensor
12. is the crankcase temp sensor
13. is the intake air temp. sensor
*14. is the atmospheric pressure sensor (rxl only)
14. is he water temp sensor
15. is the atmospheric pressure sensor
21. is the flywheel side injector
22. is the center injector (3-cyl)
22. is the Pto side injector (2-cly)
*23. is the Pto side injector (rxl)
31. is low battery voltage
32. is low charging system output
33. is CDI output

(*Note 31, 32, 33 are not used on the RXL.)
(* indicates that this codes is only used on the RXL Model)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok thanks for clarifying the toggle switch, I am 100% positive that it did turn on the hand/thumb warmers as they did get hot. Thanks for the codes, I only had 3. Now code 14 is water temp sensor - this would affect the idle?
 

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how does it idle when you first fire it up?
 

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when the engine is cold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
it won't idle, I have to hold the throttle just a touch (cold), huge burning of gas out the exhaust - smoking, then goes away (flooding). After riding for an hour it won't idle just die. Then no start. Blow out the plugs - soaked, then it will start. Then same story, even though it's hot.
 

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definately look into that sensor like you said above even when hot the sensor could be making it flood out by telling the computer it needs more gas but as of the idle when its cold and you having to hold the throttle a touch to keep it going try adjusting the idler screw a bit to get it idling itself with no throttle
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok thats some thing I over looked, I assumed they were related. But you got a good point. No other issues with it, it runs tops in the fields. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Never had an EFI before, and with vehicles I had a little bit of learning to do but kept them running good. I guess it's a learning curve. I have been warned about buying an EFI sled, but this sled wants to go - a little tuff to get started but it doesn't stop.
 

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yeah i love my rxl its so fast out on the lake or on the trails and i would use that seafoam too, and while your looking around try to see if any lines are broke or even your rubbers coming from the cylinders to your throttle body are cracked and could be sucking air but if i was a bettin man id put my money on that sensor best of luck
 
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