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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 92 Pantera 440 l/c. Last year ran great till the end of the season then it started to die and hard start. Wait a while and it would eventually start. Earlier this year ran great first 2 times out then towards the end of the second run started doing the same thing. Adjusted the carbs rebuilt fuel pump ran great again till I took it to the family cabin in PA and it died on the drive and did the same hard start but started. Got it to the cabin where the rest of the weekend did the same thing. It would run for a bit then die. Get it started sometimes with choke sometimes without. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I've done the carb magnetic bypass thing also
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
By the time I pull em out there's spark. They not really soaked but they not really dry either
 

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Two things first pull the carb and go threw it, there is a good write up in theHow too section
Second is the compression
Most likely it is down to about 110#
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Two things first pull the carb and go threw it, there is a good write up in theHow too section
Second is the compression
Most likely it is down to about 110#
[/QUOTE
I rebuilt the carbs and the fuel pump. If I remember correctly compression was around 150
 

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Not a bad thing, but reading ~150 would make me question the accuracy of the tester, but not really a big deal, even if it was reading 10-20 psi high it still puts it in the range.

Does playing with the choke help or hinder the running? Maybe a nest in the exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not a bad thing, but reading ~150 would make me question the accuracy of the tester, but not really a big deal, even if it was reading 10-20 psi high it still puts it in the range.

Does playing with the choke help or hinder the running? Maybe a nest in the exhaust?
I wasn't 100% sure on the compression. I just remember it being higher than 110. Choke doesn't do anything. I blew air threw the exhaust. I'm gonna test compression again cause like I said I tested it the winter of 19/20. Possible electrical issue?
 

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Sometimes it takes multiple cleanings to get the carburetors right. It has happened to all of us where we end up cleaning them 3 or 4 times before they are finally cleaned up and set right.
 

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Choke not doing anything at all would raise suspicion to me. Maybe it isn't closing all the way and that would make a warm/hot machine hard to start. Or not opening at all would make a cold/warm machine hard to start.

While running, if you operate the choke and nothing happens, then it is definitely an issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sometimes it takes multiple cleanings to get the carburetors right. It has happened to all of us where we end up cleaning them 3 or 4 times before they are finally cleaned up and set right.
3 to 4 times? Oh man my hands were to big to fit the first time 😂. I'm gonna go over the whole machine again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Choke not doing anything at all would raise suspicion to me. Maybe it isn't closing all the way and that would make a warm/hot machine hard to start. Or not opening at all would make a cold/warm machine hard to start.

While running, if you operate the choke and nothing happens, then it is definitely an issue
I'll check it all out. The choke lever seems to work but that doesn't say a whole lot. I just need smaller hands to fit in this thing. It was rough the first time I pulled the carbs out
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I thought a while back I seen a post on here about someone not having the battery in their sled and they had similar issues. Is that a possibility? I have one in it but it's super old. I never got a new one cause the starter was jacked up. But it ran with the pull start so I didn't think nothing of it
 

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Doubt it on the battery. EFI machines can have issues with bad batteries.

Stages of cleaning a carb.

1. Spray Carb clean through everything without taking it apart.

2. After that fails, take the float bowl off, spray some more carb clean through it, put back together.

3. After that fails, take everything apart, remove all jets and screws, clean thoroughly. Put back together. You have left over part(s), typically the pilot jet or the spring that holds the needle onto the float arm. Take it back apart, more carb-clean, install previously missing part put it all back together.

4. Fuel pours out the vent tubes... spring is not properly installed, holding needle open

5. Finally back together properly put on the sled and after 15 pulls, you wonder why it won't start still.

6. Forums suggest pressurizing the fuel tank to fill the float bowls up. It starts!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
W
Doubt it on the battery. EFI machines can have issues with bad batteries.

Stages of cleaning a carb.

1. Spray Carb clean through everything without taking it apart.

2. After that fails, take the float bowl off, spray some more carb clean through it, put back together.

3. After that fails, take everything apart, remove all jets and screws, clean thoroughly. Put back together. You have left over part(s), typically the pilot jet or the spring that holds the needle onto the float arm. Take it back apart, more carb-clean, install previously missing part put it all back together.

4. Fuel pours out the vent tubes... spring is not properly installed, holding needle open

5. Finally back together properly put on the sled and after 15 pulls, you wonder why it won't start still.

6. Forums suggest pressurizing the fuel tank to fill the float bowls up. It starts!!
Well. Alrighty then 😊
 

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i agree with Bear on the battery. On a carbed sled of that vintage, all the battery is there for is to turn the starter. It is separate from the ignition. I would be thinking electrical as well, but if you have spark when you pull the plugs, that kind of says otherwise.

On some of the mid-90's Cats, there are two small throttle pin bushings that wear out and can interfere with the action of the throttle body safety switch. Replacing those is cheap and easy and can rule that out as a possibility. Do the carbs have wires coming from them? If so, then you have throttle safety switches in the carbs, which have been a pain to everyone I know that has them. The purpose of those magnetic safety switches is to prevent a run-away sled if the throttle flipper and the slide are not in sync (which could happen due to icing or corrosion or galling in the carb body.) If you have those, bypassing them for testing is easy.

Stators in that age AC are always suspect, especially on the carb sleds. The stator is under the recoil and gets no ventilation, so the wiring gets cooked over time. Lots of guys drilled some holes in the recoil housing to get some air flow in there, or even spaced out the bolts a bit to have some air. You can also have the stator rewound with better wire, which pretty much solves the issue.

Any time I have a sled with issues running while hot, I always suspect coils and stators, just because. A failing wire may go bad when it gets hot and expands and then work fine when it cools down. I hate those kind of issues, they are really hard to figure out some times.

Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i agree with Bear on the battery. On a carbed sled of that vintage, all the battery is there for is to turn the starter. It is separate from the ignition. I would be thinking electrical as well, but if you have spark when you pull the plugs, that kind of says otherwise.

On some of the mid-90's Cats, there are two small throttle pin bushings that wear out and can interfere with the action of the throttle body safety switch. Replacing those is cheap and easy and can rule that out as a possibility. Do the carbs have wires coming from them? If so, then you have throttle safety switches in the carbs, which have been a pain to everyone I know that has them. The purpose of those magnetic safety switches is to prevent a run-away sled if the throttle flipper and the slide are not in sync (which could happen due to icing or corrosion or galling in the carb body.) If you have those, bypassing them for testing is easy.

Stators in that age AC are always suspect, especially on the carb sleds. The stator is under the recoil and gets no ventilation, so the wiring gets cooked over time. Lots of guys drilled some holes in the recoil housing to get some air flow in there, or even spaced out the bolts a bit to have some air. You can also have the stator rewound with better wire, which pretty much solves the issue.

Any time I have a sled with issues running while hot, I always suspect coils and stators, just because. A failing wire may go bad when it gets hot and expands and then work fine when it cools down. I hate those kind of issues, they are really hard to figure out some times.

Good luck!!
Oh boy. Thanks. The carb magnets are bypassed and that didn't help. It's just strange it ran good for a while then started having issues. Ran good again this year for a while then same issues came back. I'm befuddled
 

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I have a write up on cleaning round mikuni carburetors in the Polaris area and how to area iirc.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have a write up on cleaning round mikuni carburetors in the Polaris area and how to area iirc.

Thank you
 

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No problem hope it helps somehow.

I am not looking forward to cleaning the carburetors this year on both of my Polaris machines as I have Knee Surgery at the end of August then at the end of Sept then Nerve Blocks on both knees at the end of November. Going to be probably December before I go near mine.

Just take your time and double check everything when you are doing it. Cleaning carburetors isn't hard but all it takes is one piece of gunk that you missed to cause issues like the ones you are saying. Also re-check compression with a quality gauge as well as they said above.

Also if you need a manual click the link below and click the 1990-1998 service manual. You can download it as well.

 
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