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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have done a ton of work on the sled however it isn't running right. It smokes a ton and bogs down. I talked to a buddy of mine and he says I'm running the wrongp oil. He says I should be running a premium injection oil, can that cause the above problems? I've been using a generic 2cycle oil.
 

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Gears For Brains
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is the smoke bluish, black, or a thick white? if its bluish it might be an improper oil, or you need to adjust how much oil its getting, if its black it might be running too rich, but if its a thick white, it could be burning coolant... i hope this helps.
 

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what oil exactly are you using? you need an injector oil that is made to be mixed in the gas while being injected into the carbs, if you use a generic pre-mix oil it will be very rich. is the sled fouling plugs at all? sounds like you might want to change oils and possibly check you oil pump to make sure its not turned up too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
More like a light grey color. Can't be coolant its not liquid cooled. Carbs and everything is clean and set to correct mixture which is why i was kind of going with the idea that it could be me using bad oil. I was using cheap Walmart generic crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I don't think it was made for injection. the plugs have been getting nasty quick. What's the best way to get the old oil out, just take the resevoir out and dump it? I might as well check the specs on the oil pump too, what's the correct setting for it or how to set it I've spent a bit of time staring at that thing. Any suggestions on oil? Polaris premium, klotz, I've heard mixed reviews.
 

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if you take the tank off you will have to bleed the pump when you put it back on. you could use something like a turkey baster to remove the oil as much as you can. castrol sled oil is the least expensive i have ever used on an old sled like that, and it worked fine.... not sure on the pump specs.
 

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If you get air into the pump, the pump won't be able to get rid of the air. You won't pump any oil. On the top of the pump is a screw to allow the air to escape out of the pump. If you want to change oils, just use the turkey baster (or suction tube) method instead of taking the chance of losing oil in the pump. AFter you have removed the majority of the old oil, add what you want.

I have used cheapo oil from Wally World with no problems on older sleds, just make sure it is rated for injection, as was previously mentioned. Any TCW-3 oil should work just fine.

On the oil pump, you should see a scribe line on the oil pump lever and a line on the pump body. The lines should line up at idle and the arm should start moving the second your slides move.
 

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Polaris All The Way!!!
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what if you would just empty the oil tank and put the new oil in and let it run the old oil out of the lines and the pump and let it take in the new oil. Or would that mix the oils together?
 

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You don't want any air in those lines! Just get out as much as you can with the turkey baster and add the new oil. What little bit of the old oil is in there won't hurt a thing.

It could be a number of other things and I can't see just the type of oil making the sled bog down and not run right. If it was running too rich on oil, the plugs would be the first thing to go.

You say you went over the sled and put a lot of work on it..but hows the clutches and belt? If those are out of wack, the sled will bog down and smoke. It's like trying to move a sled that you just started and its cold. Try to jump on it and mash the throttle...boooggggg and fills your back yard with smoke. Even with a machine with clutches work well will run like crap until you get it warmed up and get the parts moving and working only then does is work well...Try one with a bad belt/worn clutches.. my 2cents...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Another example of what's going on, I let it get nice and warmed up. I hop on and if its smooth flat terrain it'll rocket. Still smoking though. Now if I try it where the sled meets resistance for example deeper snow or a hill it bogs down and stops, no slipping belt, no track spinning out it just bogs down and stops.
 

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Gears For Brains
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if the belt isn't burnt or slipping, and the track doesn't spin, then i would check the synchronization of your slides on the carbs, make sure they are opening at the same time and make sure that your oil pump is synchronized with your carb slides. also make sure that you don't have a clogged fuel filter or your fuel lines are not clogged up with dirt, hopes this helps.
 

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check the secondary...If it wont back shift, your starting out in high gear...you need that secondary to close to give you power when theres a load.

Take it off, and take it apart. If the spring tabe don't line up, thats your problem. Also check the buttons and make sure there are no deep grooves in the helix.

For reinstallation, Put the helix on the spring (Notice what holes it's in before you take it apart) Turn the movable sheath 1/3 turn counter clockwise and push the helix down, and put the snap ring on. Get a buddy to help! Once you get it together, twist the sheaths and see if theres pressure. If there is, you did it!

If nothings wrong with the secondary, i's check the primary....Post the the engine size and model and I'll tell you whats suppose to be in it for weights and spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I bought it used with no manual or anything so finding the specs for any of this stuff has been ridiculous. you guys have been awesome so thanks in advance. tomorrow am ill take a peek and see what I find with the secondary and the oil specs.
 
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