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Discussion Starter #1
I need to put a shock and a couple other small parts on my Exciter. I am thinking of dropping the rear of the suspension down while the tunnel is in the air to make it easier. Do I just need to remove the four bolts at the rear spring mounts to do this? I dont want to remove it completely..just gain some more clearance. Should I also loosen the front pivot bolts also?

Thanks...
 

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I would just take the skid out. place some 3/4" pipe (about three sections) in the track, underneath the skid. this will cause it to not hang up on the clips, and lugs. Remove the 4 rear bolts, and the front two, starting in the rear. Then you will have a LOT more room to work on it. When you are putting it back in, release the limiter strap on the front to help guide the front pivot shaft into place. put screws in. In the rear, I had to remover the springs from the bottom guide, (if you can do the differently please tell me), to put the rear bracket into position. when Every thing is bolted down, use the pipe you used earlier, to lever the spring back into place. There is a lot of tension on the rear spring, so you cant do it with the spring on the bottom guide, you can't line up the 2nd set of bolts after you put the 1st set in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ahh..ok..so you are saying to remove the skid assembly and leave the track in place? Didnt think that was possible...
 

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Yes, and is fairly easy. BTW, It is important that us vintage Exciter guys stick around, there doesn't seem to be enough of us.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what I found...

Thanks to all for giving me a hand yanking this suspension. Turns out if you roll her on her side..its a lot easier ;)

To sum it up...carnage. Take a look at these pics for yourself.

Both adjusters are braced, with what looks like a good weld. I am thinking this is good...

I am a pretty good welder...so the control arm issue shouldnt be a problem. I'll have that done tomorrow.

Wheels seem ok, but obviously it took a hard landing more than a few times. Guide wheel brackets are bent, fixin that tomorrow too.

Anyone know a decent lead on shocks for this thing?

Anything else I am overlooking besides greasing all the pivot bars?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
And one more thing...why does the rear of my suspension look TOTALLY different than the factory diagrams? Is this something someone swapped in, or possibly homebuilt? The track adjuster blocks are about three times as thick as the standard ones in the diagrams???????
 

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Snowmobile - Drivetrain & Traction - DennisKirk.com

Snowmobile - Suspension & Skis - DennisKirk.com

Replace the wheels as needed (rubber torn off) and replace the bearings. The middle wheel on the rear axle is a pain to get off, and if that bearing is good, leave it. The smaller wheels are the same size (Yamaha lists them as two different wheels) and the rear ones are bigger, with a bigger bearing. The smaller wheels, Idler wheels, take a B6004RS Bearing, and the bigger wheels (guide wheels)take a B6204RS. VXB is a good place. To Get the bearings out of the wheels: Place a roll of duct tape on the ground. Take the snap ring (circlip) out using a ring pliers. set the idler upside down so the bearing open side is facing the inside of the duct tape roll. Find an appropriate sized socket, and place it on the back of the bearing. Hit this with a rubber mallet until it pops out. When you are putting them in, repeat in reverse order.

Your suspension is different, looks like a homemade remedy to the rear bracket.

On the top of the flat spot on the bracket, place some plastic like the hi-fax sliders underneath, the clips sometimes slide there when returning to the bulk head.

Don't forget to replace the sliders!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If those brackets are homemade..that guy is a craftsman! They are symmetrically perfect. All the pivot bars are frozen..its taken me half the day and a whole lotta heat to get them loose and out. No wonder why this thing had a horrible ride.

Didnt want to go this far with 8" of lake effect coming down..but i guess it had to be done. Might as well as long as its out.

The wheels/bearings are surprisingly good...they all spin free with a minimum amount of noise. Rubber is decent too except the left rear which has some gouges and the right front idler which is a little worn. I will have to live with that for now as its gonna get a track at the end of the season. I'm still baffled by the rear suspension though..it almost looks like something aftermarket from a long time ago not including the brace.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for that website, 440. Didnt know about it! Definitely buying the shock and sliders.
 

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The shock preforms pretty good, I recently re did the suspension on my High miles Exciter.
I would still replace them if they feel at all rough. The new bearings, you can't tell they're moving they're so smooth...

Br wary of those sliders, I bought the garlands, (same as they use at the dealer), and they sold me sno-stuff. I have one on my Excel, (has the same slide but different length), that is frozen on. I have to replace after 200Mi, because the clips were bad and wore right through them. It is hard to keep wear down when your clips are like razor blades. It was a pain to pound on. The garlands slide on without pounding until you get to the curve, then light tapping, no hitting them as hard as you can, as with the sno-stuff.

I still have to put on a track on my Excel, I got one from Indyrydr500, for $64 shipped, about brand new. The track was bad, missing lugs, and not a clip left. I came down to where it was slipping off the bottom of the suspension...
 
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