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ASE cert. Master Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so when i go WOT it always boggs and them will build slowly till close to 4k rpm then quickly comes to life an accelerates.

what could be my problem i dont remember there being much fuel adjustment more of a jetting thing. i could adjust the needles in the pistons SHOULD I MESS WITH EM??
 

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You should try cleaning your clutches and check your belt. While these bogging issues very often feel a whole lot like carb issues it is often the clutches/belt. To confirm you almost have to watch the belt while you are riding and see if it is working properly.

I always figure it never hurts to clean the clutches up anyhow and check the belt. I know I have fought what I felt is carb issues only to replace the belt clean a sticking clutch and everything is fine.
 

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ASE cert. Master Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i cleaned my clutch.... its not in the greatest condition the phenolic wear pads are wearing deep into the aluminum... the weights are floppy and the moving haalf of the clutch has some wobble on the shaft like the collar is worn. but it all moves freely and works. i had an issue i fixxed the belt slip. its a actual carb issue on the left cyl i think it seems to lean out and takes a while to catch back up like not enuf fuel being pumped to it right away.

when i go WOT and spray a quick spurt o ether into left carb there's no bog under load
 

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Did you check your Crank seals, especially on that side? Is that the PTO side on your sled? The seals seem to be especially vulnerable under the clutch.

BTW ether = bad for em, no oil to lube
 

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ASE cert. Master Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i know ether is bad that why i only do quick spray of it and i just replaced pto side crank seal it was the cause of my belt slipping

and yes left side is pto side..

its odd before i fixed the crank seal it didnt bog from the carbs but clutch instead

for a week after it was fixed it worked perfectly and one day began bogging under wot.

what compression ratio is my engine? im runnin unleaded if its hi comp i need midgrade or premium
 

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ASE cert. Master Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok so ive never thought of the driven clutch.......X(
looked at it today the side that moves in and out can turn but eventually stops i can easily compress spring and widen the belt gap from what it looks like the tabs are worn away that make it work.

i know the fundamentals of how the torque conv setup works but not between individual styles i dont know how to get the snap ring off with spring pressure from torq conv pinning it in.

anyone know where i can get exploded view diagram of the driven clutch?
 
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