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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working on one of our 600 RMK replacing the jack shaft bearings and was reinstalling the skid.
I got the front two bolts lined up and the bolts installed, but can't get the rear ones to line up.
Is there an easy way to get them lined up? I did see on the internet that a racket strap can compress the suspension.
I just wanted to see if there is a place to connect it and make sure I don't put pressure on the jack shaft.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool, got it all back together, thanks for the help
Might need to start a new thread, now the track moves when it's in the air, but when it's on the ground, it wants to move, but the track won't go. The primary is engaging at 4K, but I am afraid I will burn up the belt. When the belt is off, the track seems to move easily when the track is off the ground....... Thought I was done getting this one ready;-)
 

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I'd start by making sure the primary sheaves are not glazed or caked with belt residue. They should be clean and dry. And scuff them up with a scotch-brite pad. Scuff up the edges of the belt as well, They can get glazed.

How is the belt deflection?
 

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Make sure the secondary isn't binding up either inside and that the buttons are okay and clean up the helix the same way you would those clutches dan is talking about. Those get glazed and can sometimes bind up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I actually did not measure the deflection. I believe it should be 1 1/4" for the Edge sleds?
The Secondary was sitting in the shop all summer, while the primary was outside in the sled. I will get them cleaned off. Will check the secondary. I have never taken one apart, so that will be a good thing to check. Sled has only1500 miles, so didn't even think about that......
The track has about 2" clearance when I put a 15lb pressure on it, so I don't think it's too tight.

I also need to look up the torque spec for the four suspension bolts..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will pull the secondary on Monday The current deflection is about 1 3/4''
Thanks for the help. Never thought about deflection being an issue for the track not moving under load, but it makes sense. I have a factory manual, so I will read up a bit more on the secondary
Thanks for the advice
I appreciate the help
 

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By 2004, Polaris had gone to PERC and the Team roller clutch for the secondary. There are no buttons inside, just two rollers. You will need a clutch press (SLP makes a nice one) and a good set of snap ring plyers to take the clutch apart.

Here's a video of changing the spring. There are also torx screws on the back, you may want an impact tool (the kind you hit with a hammer) to loosen those, too.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cool, Thanks for sending over the video. It looks like from the video, there is nothing inside for me to clean up?
Can I consider that not to be the issue? Could the belt the deflection be the problem? I will clean up the secondary and primary surfaces too.
 

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Hmm I thought they still had something in there that could go bad. I would still clean up the secondary helix and see what the spring is like and check the deflection like he said. If it is off it could pose a problem. Or the motor mounts are shot which I have seen on those go bad before.
 

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On the early Team clutches, the bottom of the spring would sometimes start galling the sheave and could create binding. I remember adding a Delrin washer to help prevent that. Taking the clutch apart for a good cleaning is always a good idea, it can get pretty grungy in there. Opening it up will also allow you to examine the condition of the rollers. Look for flat spots and bad bushings/bearings. And looking at the helix is always a good idea, but with the rollers, they seldom get any wear like with the button style.

The SLP clutch press tool can be used on the primary, as well. It's nice to have.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cool, got the press tool ordered.
I did check the secondary again, and two things I noticed.

1. The adjust nut and allen bolt is seized, so I can't adjust the deflection. Took it out as one piece and soaking in some PB Blaster, The clutch tool screws in and the clutch opens up fine.

2. I noticed that there is no play on the secondary on the jack shaft. I thought I put the spacers in the same way it came out? But we did replace the jack shaft bearings, so maybe the end play is different. I believe it should have about 1/8" of play when the bolt is torque at 15lbs.

Will take off the secondary and clean it, along with the primary.
Thanks again
Bob
 

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I have broken a couple of those adjuster screws on Team clutches over the years. At least yours came out in one piece ;) That's about the only thing I do not like about the Team. But I have not broken any in a few years, so maybe they have things fixed.

There should be a little play in the secondary, mainly to prevent side-loading of the jackshaft bearing. That bearing is not meant for side loading. So as long as you insure the alignment is ok, I would remove one of the spacers to give you at least a little free-play. Or when you check alignment, maybe adding a spacer behind the secondary will be better for your alignment. Aligned pulleys make for a happy belt :)

When you want to adjust, try not to make the adjustment with the adjusting screw. Force the sheaves apart, then use the screw as a stop. I think that's how I broke one of the ones I broke, by trying to screw the adjuster in to increase deflection. Oops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok,
Sounds good. Do you get the bit of play from the rear shims or from the washers on the bolt?
After the adjuster screw set overnight in PB Blaster, still no movement. I don't see those available on the polaris parts listing any longer. Where did you get your replacements?
Thanks for the advice.......
 

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Proper procedure would be to establish offset (alignment) while pushing the clutch toward the bearing. Add or remove the shims behind the clutch to get your alignment. Once that is correct, add or remove shims from the clutch bolt to set the amount of free play. If all you need is the freeplay, adding a shim to the bolt should do it.

I have not seen the shims in the after-market. I got mine at the dealer. Don't be tempted to use a washer, a regular steel washer will rust and make a mess, especially inside the clutch.
 
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