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Hi all, I recently picked up a 2004 rmk 700 vertical edge that needed work. At one point it had hit something and needed front end parts which is how I got it. The guy I got it from had replaced some stuff, then had a tie rod break and decided he was done with it. He said it rode it and it ran good, but would start to engage the clutch at about 4k rpms and then not rev any higher. He said it needed a new clutch.

So, I replaced all the necessary front end parts and also ordered a used clutch from ebay. Got them all on and it still did the same thing. From there I started replacing stuff. I noticed one of the exhaust bellows was cracked so replaced both. Rebuilt the fuel pump, replaced old gas with new and got a new temperature sensor. I cleaned the carbs twice, air screw 1 screw out, fuel screw 1.75 out and needle on #2. I also confirmed I had the right jets, 280 main jet at 9k feet, usually riding between 0 and 30 degrees F.

The issue is still there. It will rev up to almost engaging the belt but fall on its face. Anyone have any ideas for me? Would love to get this thing going, especially with how much $ I've spent on fixing the front end issues.

Thanks!
 

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It may be electrical, the ECU and the TPS are common issues with the Edge big blocks. There is a thread on Snowest on how to make your own TPS tester, you may have to dig in the archives to find it.. but that is an option. There is no testing procedure for the ECU, just find a similar sled and swap to see if the problem follows. That is getting harder to do these days.

I would also make sure you have good contact in the spark plug boots. The boots unscrew from the wire, snip off 1/4" and reattach, making sure the small screw contact is shiny. And don't discount changing to new plugs. Are the plugs wet or dry? Are they black, tan, or white? That can help guide you as well.
 

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Originally this was the guy that came up with the tool and made the video on it. The thread he has in his links those is dead as Slednutz is long gone. I used that parts list to make my own. I even thought about making them and selling them at one point. But if Snowest has the thread that would be interesting to see but anyways if you find it and make it the video is below on how to adjust your Polaris TPS. Doesn't matter the year Polaris TPS needs to be set at 4.0

 

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It may be electrical, the ECU and the TPS are common issues with the Edge big blocks. There is a thread on Snowest on how to make your own TPS tester, you may have to dig in the archives to find it.. but that is an option. There is no testing procedure for the ECU, just find a similar sled and swap to see if the problem follows. That is getting harder to do these days.

I would also make sure you have good contact in the spark plug boots. The boots unscrew from the wire, snip off 1/4" and reattach, making sure the small screw contact is shiny. And don't discount changing to new plugs. Are the plugs wet or dry? Are they black, tan, or white? That can help guide you as well.

Thanks, I forgot to mention new plugs, i also have a 2004 800, so I took the airbox and all the electrical stuff thats on that airbox over to the 700 and it still acted the same. I haven't done anything with the tps since I knew it needed a special tool. Ill see what more I can find on that. I heard if you unplug the tps it should give some indication if thats the issue if anything changes, but it acts exactly the same with the tps unplugged.
 

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Originally this was the guy that came up with the tool and made the video on it. The thread he has in his links those is dead as Slednutz is long gone. I used that parts list to make my own. I even thought about making them and selling them at one point. But if Snowest has the thread that would be interesting to see but anyways if you find it and make it the video is below on how to adjust your Polaris TPS. Doesn't matter the year Polaris TPS needs to be set at 4.0

Awesome I actually came across that video a few days ago. I made one up tonight but I'm getting about 5.1ish volts power with my setup, should that still work ok? I'll test it tomorrow if it'll work
 

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Your multimeter should tell you around 5 which is correct. I have all the parts sitting in my eBay save for later to make around 10 of them. I bought all of my stuff years ago and it reads 5.0 volts. Cheap way to fix that and not spend 80 bucks at a dealer or 300 on a TPS Polaris tool. Just make sure you use a good quality new 9 volt battery is all. I made that mistake once
 

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Your multimeter should tell you around 5 which is correct. I have all the parts sitting in my eBay save for later to make around 10 of them. I bought all of my stuff years ago and it reads 5.0 volts. Cheap way to fix that and not spend 80 bucks at a dealer or 300 on a TPS Polaris tool. Just make sure you use a good quality new 9 volt battery is all. I made that mistake once
I made my setup using an old cell phone USB cable. Cut the end off, then found the positive and negative wires. I then plugged that into one of those portable battery packs for cell phones and ipods, etc. It says its output is DC 5V 1A. When its read on my multimeter I get 5.18V. This was just a quick experiment with stuff I had, not sure how tolerant the 5V part is, maybe ill check the output on some of the other battery units I have.
 

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I've seen someone else use one of those at a repair shop he claimed it worked. Idk though never seen him use it.
 

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I made my setup using an old cell phone USB cable. Cut the end off, then found the positive and negative wires. I then plugged that into one of those portable battery packs for cell phones and ipods, etc. It says its output is DC 5V 1A. When its read on my multimeter I get 5.18V. This was just a quick experiment with stuff I had, not sure how tolerant the 5V part is, maybe ill check the output on some of the other battery units I have.
I did the same with cell phone USB and charger,great minds think a like Jlhollowx*
 

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I did the same with cell phone USB and charger,great minds think a like Jlhollowx*
Good to know someone else had that idea! What output did your battery put out? Was it exactly 5 volts or something near mine, around 5.1V? And were your results satisfactory? Thanks!
 

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Yeah pretty much the same, that being said you can try different chargers cause they put out different voltage. I will post a video to show people very shortly.
 

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Yeah pretty much the same, that being said you can try different chargers cause they put out different voltage. I will post a video to show people very shortly.
Thanks, I tried all the battery packs I have and the closest I could get was 5.1V. Guess I'll give that a shot and see what happens.
 

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Yeah let me know, just for my own knowledge. Thanks ✌
Tested with my setup and it seemed to work. My tps was pretty close, something like 4.03 volts or something but I set it at 4. I also picked up a compression tester since I haven't done that. I was getting between 85 and 90 psi on this machine, it has a bit over 5k miles. I also tested my 2004 rmk 800 that had about 2k miles. It was reading just under 110 psi. I'm also testing at my house which is at about 9200 feet. Based on what I found online I have a compression correction factor of about .76 at this elevation. So if I'm looking for about 120 psi at sea level it would be 120x.76 which is about 91psi at this elevation. So it doesn't seem my engines compression is low, at least from my understanding. Anyone knowing better please chime in.

Also while my plugs were out I took a look, they still look brand new (I just replaced them) but more signs of being a little rich than lean but they look good to me. My 800 spark plugs were pretty dang black! But I haven't messed with it at all since it seems to run pretty good and doesn't give me any major problems.
 

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I went out to start it and run it after the adjustment and noticed liquid coming out of the exhaust when pulling on it. I decided to pull the exhaust off and see what was going on, the exhaust was full of fuel! So I guess something wasn't right in the bowl. I pulled the carbs off and cleaned them again. Ill see what happens tomorrow when I get it back together.
 

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Clean your needle/seats, when something like that happens either the needle/seats are bad and need to be cleaned or replaced or the fuel pump has an issue. One reason to turn off the fuel pump shut off valve when you are not riding it.
 

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I am at 4200 feet, when I rebuilt my 02 and 04 800's, I had about 150 psi compression on new rings/pistons. Your compression seems pretty low to me... the 700 should have about the same...
According to my math, at sea level your machine would have about 168 psi compression with rebuild, my 04 800 with 2k miles would have 144 psi compression and my 04 700 with 5k+ miles would have 118 psi compression. From what I can find online 120 psi is ideal, anything below 100 is no good. I also tested my compression with throttle closed, carbs on, cold engine, lots of people say it should be done with a warm engine (supposedly compression numbers are higher then) and I also saw someone say the carbs should be off, but I think holding the throttle open does the same thing, doesn't limit airflow as much as closed. I used the electric start on my 800 but the 700 doesn't have it so I had to pull it which I'm sure contributed to a somewhat inaccurate reading compared to the electric start, at least its a variable. Based on those numbers I would think all is ok there and I have something else going on, but ill have to see when I get it back together later today.

In a side note, since I have the carbs off I thought maybe it would be a good idea to recheck my tps. But I realized the throttle on the carb can open WAY more when moving it directly on the carb than the throttle lever on the handlebars can move it. So I'm assuming it has to be adjusted only while installed. Can anyone confirm this?
 
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