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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at 2 sleds, a 2001 RMK 800 Vertical Edge and a 2003 RMK 800, both are 151 tracks, close to the same price. I don't know much about Polaris sleds, as I have only owned Ski Doo's, so I am here looking to see what the pro's and con's of each sled are.

Were there any significant changes from 2001 to 2003?

The 2001 has about 1800 miles on it and the 2003 has over 6000.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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edgex800ves
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The 01 probably has a little more power as I believe they started putting decompression holes to make them easier to pull start in 03, But Id wait for BC Dan to check your post he knows his Polaris. Im not aware of too many other changes myself. But whichever one you do get pull your ves and make sure your upgraded to Stainless Steel guilotines, the aluminum ones fail and shotgun your motor. Torque arm add-on helps your crank live longer too, and you can also ask if either has been upgraded to the larger sized crank bearing. These are the 2 main issues with either sled I know about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply, this is exactly the stuff I'm looking for. The thing that scares me the most is the 6000 miles on the 2003, and I spoke to him, he is the original owner and says he has never done the top end.


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edgex800ves
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If your looking for reliabily I really would suggest not buying either. I have a 800 twin myself and their good after you change the guilotines, get the wide bearing kits and add a torque arm... a balanced maintained clutch is important too, but if it isnt done the 800 will kill cranks that cost over 900$ not too mention the downtime. While the same sleds in a 6 or 700 will last you forever without costly upgrading. Dont get me wrong I love the 800 I have its just worth looking into whats been done for upgrades and maintenance. If you do go for the 03 it will be due for a top end rebuild for sure at those miles and if he's never done it yet id say he probably hasnt changed the crank bearings either. And btw I run with alot of guys on 600's and 700's and they can keep up more or less unless I have a nice long lake run to put them in their place lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm looking for something to get me to the top of the mountain!! I have a 98 Ski Doo MXZ 500 now with a 121 track, and I am limited on money, but these 2 Polaris sleds are available and in my price range. I found a 2001 Ski Doo Summit 700 151, and a Yamaha 700 Moutain Max with a 141 track all in the same price range, but I tend to favor Polaris, I am very familiar with their 4 wheeler's and they are great.
 

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edgex800ves
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Id wait for BC Dan to reply, Ive no advice on mountain stuff. 100's of lakes with short woodland portages between them here. I run a 121 on my 800 but thats because of my terrain, id venture too guess a 700 can go to the top just as easily though, considering my 800 weighs enough to anchor a small battleship lol. Hope my engine advise was useful but I'll bow out now to someone with mountain riding experience on the ability to climb between the different size sleds.
 

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i too am a proud owner of a polaris 800 twin. like said,as much as i love my 800,its just a matter of time before it grenades.had i not gotten such a good deal and had i known about the 800 issues,i would have opted on the 700.
 

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The 2001 800 RMK was in the GenII chassis and had no VES valves (Variable Exhaust System.) The 800 VES RMK started in 2002. The 2003 had a bit more power and different carburation (different needle jet and needle, lots different main jet) and got better gas mileage.

If it's a 2001 Gen II, the upgrade from the Xtra-10 suspension to the Edge suspension is pretty noteworthy. Hands down, the 2003 will be a much better ride.

The 800 set up right can last a long time. The wide bearing kit, keeping the clutch balanced, and adding an engine plate to help keep the flex out of the crankcase helps a lot for crank durability. The 700 has a bit less HP, but you hardly EVER hear about anyone with 700 problems.

The funnest sled I ever had (to date! :D ) was my 2002 800 RMK 144" with the SLP pipe/can. That thing was a rocket and would really pull on your arms when you hit the flipper. I like my IQ 700, which has similar HP, but hands down, the 800 had more torque. That thing pulled like a tractor. I had a 2004 that had the 151". It was stock and was very capable, but about 4 mph slower than the 2002.

If sleds were worth more, it would make sense to put a bullet-proof bottom end in an Edge chassis, but you easily pay more for the 800 engine parts than the entire sled is worth. That's a pity in some ways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I pulled the trigger and bought the 2001!! And this is where the story begins, the title says its a 2002 not a 2001 like the ad had claimed, and clearly on the hood is say's "Variable Exhaust System", also there were a lot more goodies, like a lefty throttle. The ad also claimed 1800 miles, and there were only 1193, they owner saw all of this and was surprised himself, he stated he didn't ride it much the last couple of years. I am still new to this forum, if someone could give me some directions I will upload some pic's. Thanks for the information on this @edge800ves and @BC_Dan, I am looking forward to being a Polaris owner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A few extras,

Simons Flex ski's
Fox shocks all around
Lefty throttle
Hot dog warmer on the exhaust
Shovel and mount( attached to the belt cover)
Extra belt
Geared low( I still need to count the teeth to see how much)


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edgex800ves
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nice looking sled congrats, make sure you pull the exhaust valves and see whats in there. The stainless ones have a cut out in them, and they need to be kept clean :) Im sure you'll have alot of fun they can pull your arms off! It's an 02 if its got the valves, same as mine(except mines an edge x 121 track)
 

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one thing i noticed different about your sled is the pull start handle.i don't believe that location was changed till late 03/04
 

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Me likey :D

Keep the clutch balanced. That's the biggest thing that has been found to prevent premature failure of the PTO side crank bearing. And make sure you use the 2002 jetting chart, the one for 2003 and up is MUCH leaner because they went to a different needle jet and jet needle.

Fun times ahead for you, I'm guessing!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One last question, the key has 2 positions premium gas and regular gas, if I don't know what he ran in this, what should I do? Drain the tank? I want to run premium only, also he ran Lucas semi synthetic, I plan to run the same, but is this good oil for this sled?


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edgex800ves
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just run it on regular till your refill it with premium, unless the gas is real old then id drain it, I run premium as well but if its crazy cold out I'll run it in the regular position as well in case its running on the lean side. The premium setting just ups your timing a notch. As for your oil Ive always gone with a full synthetic just because your power valves stay cleaner longer, but if you dont mind pulling them for extra cleanings go ahead and run the semi its your choice.

Seeing you have the same sled as me (well almost) heres some stuff to look at if you wanna get the most from your machine.

almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

3) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
a) 66 gram stock weights, OR
b) SLP's 68 gram MTX'S with 3 grams in the tip, plus 2 to 3 grams in the middle, slight improvement over 66's

4) Send your primary clutch out to have it balanced. Since these sleds have a bad rep for wasting the crankshafts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout (remove primary) and periodically check the run-out. 002"-.0025" is the MOST I would want to see. Made a NOTICEABLE improvement in smoothness and extends crankshaft and clutch life, they drilled 8-9 lightening holes in mine, that's how far off it was from the factory!! SLP and others charge only $35.00 for this service. Do this after you've set the belt to sheave clearance.



SECONDARY

Button Secondary

1) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

2) Stock SOLID BLUE Secondary Spring with R-49 Helix, (POLARIS Part # 5133023)

3) Replace the (3) little plastic wear buttons, they're approx $ 1.00 each


Roller Secondary TSS-98 or TSS-04

1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

2) Helix 70-42.46 duration SLP part # 50-90

3) Secondary spring 140/200 Red/Dark Blue SLP part # 50-4


The old style button clutch was faster on top end



BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset, center to center, and check for engine "crooked"), mine and my bud's were off!!!! You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket(s) to get it perfect. Use thin Chevrolet style starter shims available @ Auto Parts stores under the “HELP” brand.

2) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the #3211087 belt, it's a CLOSE TOLERANCE version of the #3211080


ENGINE LIMITERS

1) SLP push engine limiter MAG side ($47.95) SLP part # 23-50 (E-Z 20 minute installation, only one hole to drill into your aluminum bulkhead)

2) WMS Engine torque arm, P.T.O. side, in front of the engine. ($82.95) sold also by SLP part #23-53 (E-Z bolt-on installation, no holes to drill)


T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think)

1) Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Make sure you have EXACTLY 5.0 VOLTS FOR TESTING PURPOSES. Don't overlook this!

2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers

3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.




CHAIN-CASE and GEARS and CHAIN TENSION

1), Stock factory gearing is 25/40, change the bottom gear to (41), same 76 pitch chain still fits, less of a dog leg, acceleration improves a little, no loss in top end.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from auto cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"


EXHAUST VALVES

1) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

2) The original exhaust valves are aluminum, which were prone to failure and severe engine damage could result. Then they went to titanium, and the latest and greatest are Stainless Steel, identifiable by the heavier weight and "relief cut outs"

3) The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.

4) POLARIS part # 2202838 (order two kits) includes stainless valve, orange bellow, and 1 exhaust spring, it's only enough parts for one cylinder (chances are its done already)



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 stock, 55:1 to 60: 1 is better.

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.



COLD START TIP

On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.



SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



DEBATABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign

3) Boost bottles
 

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edgex800ves
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I should have also stated you dont have too follow all those mods, it's just what works for me. Everyone likes to do things a little different. And remember mines a lake runner your gearing ect for mountain riding may be better with a different setup, but ive yet to find another 02 that can outdo me on the lakes or trails set up this way!
 

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I've honestly more or less just got into snowmobiling last year around my area tons of them were going for cheap we bought a 2007 Ski-Doo 800 highmark 159-in track for 1,000 bucks and this year I bought a RMK 800 151-in track for 300 bucks because it had a few minor problems (including the skis being on backwards? lolz) anyway our RMK is way better as far as powder driving goes and high marking so in my personal opinion RMK's are better to get to the places you want to go
 
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