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It doesn't look bad, but if that belt fails, you lose lubrication and cooling for the engine. That's why I replaced 'em. You just can't be too careful. And it's a lot easier when you're in the garage as opposed to the side of the trail!
 

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Yeah I would still replace it so you know it is the brand new one and then save the old one as the spare. Nothing worse then breaking that belt and overheating the engine. Especially an 800 big block.
 

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2000 Polaris RMK Indy 800
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Discussion Starter #23
How I do it... I crack the bleed screw on the thermostat and use a small shop vac and suck all that I can out of the overflow bottle. Once that is done, I detach one of the upper hoses from the engine and suck all I can out of both sides. That pretty much gets all the coolant. If you flush with water prior to refill, make sure to repeat before adding coolant to get as much water out as possible so that the mix is not too diluted. Don't go less than 50/50, 60/40 may be better depending on where you are.

When refilling, you want to have the front of the sled higher than the rear heat exchanger. A tilting trailer works great, as will a ramp into a non-tilting trailer. I have used milk crates under the skis in a pinch, but the front of that 800 will be pretty heavy.

Fill as much as you can, then idle the sled with the radiator cap off. That will allow any air to evacuate from the system out the overflow. After 5 minutes of idling, you should begin to feel heat in the rear heat exchanger. If not, there may be an air bubble. If the front is not quite higher, sit on the tunnel. That should lower the back enough to get the air out of the system.

One thing that is often forgotten on the big block Liberty engines is the small belt that drives the water pump and oil pump. It lives under the recoil housing, so the housing has to be removed to check/replace it. If it's not been replaced in a while, it's not a bad thing to do. If the belt fails, you lose oil and cooling and that is definitely not what you need!

Welcome to the forum!
So I failed to flush the coolant this weekend but did realize in your post that you had mentioned to let it run with the radiator cap off. The diagram link you sent me to browse didnt have a radiator cap at all and it seems the only access is the over flow tank. So a couple questions there.
Does that change the flushing process?

Do I fill it up thru that tank and leave that cap off and let it run?

And should I worry about taking off the big bottom hose too when flushing? It’d seem like gravity would help in that aspect as well?

the back heat exchanger is under the back tunnel?
Thanks for the help! I just really want to get this right like I said before being a jet ski guy you got cool fresh lake water for coolant 😅
 

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Yep, the overflow cap is what I meant. There's no real radiator on a snowmobile, they have heat exchangers that are cooled by the snow coming off the track and hitting the exchanger.

If you want to remove any of the coolant hoses to allow better flow through the engine/cooling system, that is always a good idea. Drain as much antifreeze as possible beforehand so as not to make a mess with the ethylene glycol.

The back heat exchanger is at the very back of the tunnel. The coolant on the Gen II sleds goes from the engine down the outside edge of (I think) the left running board and crosses over in the rear heat exchanger and goes up the outside edge of the right running board. The running board acts as a heat exchanger which helps some in melting snow off of the running board. And in the event you are on a day where the engine seems to be running too hot, you can pack snow on the running board and that can help cool the engine as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Does anyone know where the fuel filter is on these sleds? And while we’re at it, the oil filter too? Thanks guys!
update. Got the new water/oil belt installed and everything else like that! Got the first snow fall last night and took it out for a bit. Runslike a champ
 

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Fuel filter should be behind the airbox. Use a clear 1/4" or 5/16" fuel filter, there really isn't an oil filter on these sleds as it isn't like a car.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok awesome thank you! I’ll be sure to change that, I have no idea how old it is. Also I got a new battery for free and am wondering about matching battery specs to the sled. I don’t know what the cold cranking amps and everything should be but here’s what I got...

Braille battery
Voltage 13.08
Cranking amps *463
Battery model B 129
 

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Yep got them for about $20 bucks and bout to move from mower to the sled!
Simply rework the hold down with a piece of plywood.
 

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Mine for my '92 Indy 500 EFI is only 25 bucks for a AGM from Amazon so I just buy one of those every 3 seasons or so and it seems to last as long as I keep it on a battery trickle charger as it isn't in the sled unless I am using it.
 
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