Snowmobile Forum banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
I am having a different problem every day, lol...decided while I had it apart I would clean and sync the carbs again. I have them all apart and cleaned and now I can't get the pin out to take off the float tab to access the needle and seat. I carefully filed them to get rid of any burrs that might be holding them up and no luck. I am bit reluctant to use a torch on it, although once the carbs are clean and dry I might have to try that. First I am going to put some penetrating oil on them and let them sit a while...it's always something, aye?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
You guys are a big help, lol. I got the top off the airbox, snapping off 3 of the 4 tabs, in hindsight looks like I could have pried the hinges out without breaking. Still not sure where that filter goes that I found inside the tunnel, it's not quite long enough to cover both of the vent holes going from the tunnel to the airbox. Made a wood brace for the carb float tabs and put some break free stuff on it, going to let it soak overnight and go buy a punch small enough to hopefully remove the pin. Hopefully I won't break a tab before I give up, might just spray carb cleaner in the needles and seats and call it good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,890 Posts
Take a 1/4" deep 1/4 drive socket and an ice pick! Hold the alum tab under the pin and tap on the ice pick to push the float pin out!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,083 Posts
And use a VERY small hammer! The ice pick is a great idea. It shouldn't take more than a couple taps to drive the pin out. One end of the pin is larger than the other, make sure you are driving from the small end. (You probably knew that, but just making sure!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Yes, I am tapping on the small end, lol. I even filed the end of the pin flat and have been using a small brad nail, actually bent it, still no movement. I will try the ice pick, although not sure what you mean to do with the 1/4" socket....use it to brace the post?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Well getting the nut off is the easy part!
Getting the flywheel off can be a real PITA!
Once the nut is off, remove the washers (one lock and one thick flat)
Then get a harmonic balancer puller and the strongest bolts you can to fit the recoil cage bolts!
Then that1/2" drive breaker will come in handy, and I would put the nut itself back on flush with the end of the threads!
And when the flywheel pops it will scare you! Always does!

Now I am getting mad, pretty sure I will not but another Arctic Cat, it's going to be Polaris or maybe Yamaha from now on.

I bought a harmonic balancer puller and of course none of the bolts fit the flywheel holes, they are skinny ass 10mm bolts. So I went to the local hardware store and all they had were about 2 1/2" long bolts....they screw in enough, but are so short I cant use the pointed tip on the puller or keep the flywheel nut on. So I tightened it as far as I could with the ratchet, then about 3-4 turns with a long breaker and ...nada...so I heated up the center, put another turn or two and still nothing. I am going to leave it torqued on overnight as I read somewhere that a change in temps might cause it to pop eventually, I am definitely not holding my breath. I am afraid to turn it any further as I'm pretty sure the skinny 10mm bolts are at the breaking point. I find it a bit funny after watching a youtube video by some canuck named Blaine....just a couple of turns of the wrench and "pop!"...easy peasy, yea right!

Plus I gave up on getting the pins out of the float tab to access the needle and seat before I break a post. Then I am trying to figure out where the filter goes between the air box and air tunnel, there was foam filter just laying in the tunnel and it doesn't seem big enough to fi the openings. argggg!
 

·
Sled Of The Month Judge
Joined
·
2,819 Posts
Those flywheels can get very stuck. You probably won't see a catastrophic failure of the bolt though, they will stretch quite a bit before they snap.

An impact gun makes this job much, much easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
I tried the hot and cold method, no luck. I have the bolt torqued to the max, going to let it sit overnight, read that sometimes the change in temp will break it loose. At this point I am going to let it be since I'm going out of town. Going to get some longer, hardened steel bolts and maybe a different puller and try later. I might have to tap the holes for larger bolts. It will come off eventually, somehow, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,890 Posts
OK the 1/4 socket does go under the allum tab!
They do come out!

The flywheel, as I said get the longest strongest 6mm bolts you can get!
Also Be sure to get some small thick washers as well!
Put the nut back on with NO washers behind it! Especially the thick flat one!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Well, I finally gave up on trying to pull the flywheel and put it all back together and see how it would run. I ran it with the plug for all the lights, ignition, etc. disconnected. It ran ok but had a bit of misfiring going on and would sometimes backfire and not accelerate but still idled fine. Then after a minute it would rev up again.

So after reading up a bit on 2 strokes in general and reading an engine by the color of the plugs, it seems the motor was running lean even though I had the air-fuel screws set at 1 turn out. I am operating the sled between 2800 and 3400 feet with a typical outdoor temperature of about 32 degrees, so it seems it would run a bit rich if anything, not lean.

However, this sled has a poor design (imho) in that the carb boots where they connect to the airbox seem to short and don't seal completely. They are too short to put a clamp or a zip tie on, I did put some duct tape around them which helps some. So, thinking that the poor boot to carb seal is creating a lean mixture, I turned the mixture screws in 1/2 a turn, so they are 1/2 a turn out from lightly seated. I have been riding it for a week or so and it is running perfectly!

Not sure if I should mess with success and replace the boots (they are not cracked at all). I have read some about others having issues with these carb boots, anyone have experience with them or can suggest a solution?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,890 Posts
Don't even worry about the boots on the back of the carb!
The back side really isn't an issue!
Not like it is going to suck up dust with out a filter.
Are you sure you got the floats set at 'Level'?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
After all that, it turned out that the problem was simply that it was running too lean causing it to sputter and backfire. I thought I had the mixture screws set but apparently not, plus the outside temp was pretty cold thus making it even more lean.
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top