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Ok , so i found 2 cyls with heads for my sled for $150 locally.
I still need 2 pistons.
My question is how to remove the clutch, it isn't coming off using water and teflon tape, tried with breaker bar and impact gun, it isn't moving.
I wanted to buy the tool but don't know which one to get, the clutch I am dealing with isn't the original clutch.
I'd like to change the crankcase seals in case that was the cause of the scorched cyl/piston.
I looked at the clutch removal tools but theres dozens of them.
Anyone have any ideas for me?
 

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Take a picture of the clutch and post. Hopefully whoever replaced it, didn't screw up with the wrong taper.

Instead of water, try diesel. just a little. Like a teaspoon. Diesel pops when it is compressed. :)
 

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TRA clutch. Definitely not the original as Skidoo was using Comet Bell clutches on the 380s.

It is actually a better clutch.

TRA clutch puller will work just fine. Typically they are about $25.

What you can do is stand the engine up so you can spray some WD-40 or equivalent in the hole and let it sit for a few hours. If you notice the liquid coming out from behind the clutch, chances are the taper is wrong for the motor, but I really don't think that is an issue. With the WD-40 in there, after a few hours try doing the water trick, but with WD-40 instead. Even if it doesn't work, you would have forced WD-40 into the taper. Then let it sit for an hour again.
 

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There are two different TRA clutch pullers. One is for etecs and large motors. The other is for everything from 1992-2006. That clutch probably came off a 500 (check the spring), but it could have also come off an older 440 or larger machine.
 

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There are two different TRA clutch pullers. One is for etecs and large motors. The other is for everything from 1992-2006. That clutch probably came off a 500 (check the spring), but it could have also come off an older 440 or larger machine.
can you give me a link to the clutch puller suited for 92 to 2006.
 

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TRA clutch. Definitely not the original as Skidoo was using Comet Bell clutches on the 380s.

It is actually a better clutch.

TRA clutch puller will work just fine. Typically they are about $25.

What you can do is stand the engine up so you can spray some WD-40 or equivalent in the hole and let it sit for a few hours. If you notice the liquid coming out from behind the clutch, chances are the taper is wrong for the motor, but I really don't think that is an issue. With the WD-40 in there, after a few hours try doing the water trick, but with WD-40 instead. Even if it doesn't work, you would have forced WD-40 into the taper. Then let it sit for an hour again.
I've done all that, tried with 5-30 motor oil too with engine standing on end.
Been trying off and on since June.
 

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heat?

So another clutch I pulled off of a 1990's Skandic, I did the water trick and with the puller tight, applied heat to it and wait for it to pop.
 

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cant remove clutch, can't find the right tool so I've decided to pass on the crank seals and keep going,
found a cyl and piston on ebay, bought it... its on the way .
I'll need to helicoil the sparkplug thread .
Question, should I order a gasket kit.
 

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Yes order a complete gasket kit. Will have everything you need in it for assembly including seals. Also I would take it to a shop that can press that clutch off and do the seals so you know it is all done and done right. They shouldn't charge much for doing something like that.
 

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Yes order a complete gasket kit. Will have everything you need in it for assembly including seals. Also I would take it to a shop that can press that clutch off and do the seals so you know it is all done and done right. They shouldn't charge much for doing something like that.
yeh good idea, I know place that I can take it to for the clutch.

Do you suggest ebay for gasket set, I've read the cyl head O ring seal is a problem in these kits.
 

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mfgsupply or dennis kirk. You can look up the kit on parts unlimited and find the part numbers to search around on those two sites or amazon. eBay I would only order if it is a name brand.

 

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mfgsupply or dennis kirk. You can look up the kit on parts unlimited and find the part numbers to search around on those two sites or amazon. eBay I would only order if it is a name brand.


Thanks, the dennis kirk site was exactly what I was looking for.
Got the seal kit and piston pin retainer clips.
 

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A local powersport shop said theres a couple of different clutch pullers for the TRA clutch and he's not sure which one to order, instead he said he will pop it off for me if I bring it in.
All the parts are in transit , it looks like I might actually get to ride this year. !
 

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No problem, mfg supply is a great place. Kirk is okay but prices are always so high there but sometimes they are the only ones who have stock because of their priority vs other small places. Parts Unlimited Snowmobile catalog online is a great place to get part numbers to then search Amazon, eBay and search engines. They tend to be a little higher as well but a lot of powersports stores get their inventory from Parts Unlimited. They still do the biggest catalog of parts for any powersports out there.

 

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Waiting on the shop to pop my clutch off, I have all parts except a set of piston rings which I'll get from the same shop, he stocks parts. Meantime I started to swap the ski's to a newer pair the seller gave me. But the axle bolts are too short, ordered new ones to find the originals are not M10 but M12. !
Oh well, bit by bit.
No real snow here in northern maine yet.
 

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Got my engine back, only $10 to pull the clutch off.
I think I have all parts needed now.
The shop looked at my ring gear and said I need a bigger one 8 1/2 inch dia.
I have a question, whilst the clutch is off the crankshaft, is it possible for me to determine which puller tool I need to order by looking inside it?
I cannot visualize how they function.
The end of the crank is threaded , what about the clutch part that slips over the crankshaft... should that have threads inside it also to engage a puller? I don't recall seeing threads inside when I looked.
If it has no threads to push it off the crank then I'm baffled.
It's out in the garage, dark freezing cold right now.
 

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Most clutch pullers push on the end of the crankshaft. As you tighten the puller, it pushes hard enough to pop the clutch off. The outside of the primary should have threads that the puller engages.
OK, maybe I missed the threads in the primary, I'll take a look.
I want to be able to pull the clutch myself at a later date if I can find a ring gear for the starter.
 
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