1995/6 skidoo e380 starter ring gear

4616 Views 80 Replies 7 Participants Last post by gerard jones, 12 mo ago

savoy1

Discussion Starter · May 26, 2021

Hi there, i bought a e380 touring E cheap from a guy who said it won't stay running.
This is my first snow sled, the learning curve is rather steep....and expensive so far.
I can't even get it running to find out whats wrong.
I got it to sputter on ether in the sparkplug holes.
But pull starting is very hard for me.
Installed a battery but starter was frozen, so I installed a starter to discover the bendix doesn't reach the ring gear.

Found a chunk of shattered clutch sheave in the belly pan, looks like the clutch blew up and he swapped in a used unit with a smaller diameter ring gear.
I can find the correct ring gear used. 84 tooth, 417222859.

My question is, if i buy the the ring gear will it fit the clutch I have ?
Or do I need a complete primary clutch.

Thanks for any help.

Save

1 - 7 of 81 Posts

BC_Dan

· #2 · May 26, 2021

I'm not a ski doo guy, so am just making a SWAG... I'm thinking the clutch that is there now is not the correct clutch. It may fit the PTO shaft but may not be the same diameter as the original. How many teeth does the gear that is in there have? That may tell you. I'm betting you will need a clutch.

Good luck! And for the starting problem, clean the carbs. Twice. There are small fuel and air passages that go to the starting circuit in the carb, they get gunked up pretty easily and can make starting impossible. Starting with spotless carbs will give you a chance to get it adjusted so it starts easily.

That is where I would start...

Save

BC_Dan

· #4 · May 26, 2021

Kits are not normally required, there are not many moving parts inside. You need to disassemble completely, including the pilot jet (the one up the tube) and clean really well. Sometimes the spray cleaner does not get rid of all the varnish that the alcohol-infested fuel leaves. I take a soft wire and poke it up into all the holes to help dislodge the junk. I also make sure the pilot and main jets are spotless, especially the pilot jet. And if the needle jet can be removed, it's a good thing to clean completely, as well.

I have had to replace the inlet needle/seat more often than other parts, that seems to be more common. When you disassemble, if the needle has a ridge on it, it may be time for replacement. But usually, just cleaning works pretty well.

There are a lot of good videos online and a few threads in the "how to" part of the forum to guide you. Cleaning carbs is a yearly ritual, anyone that has a sled should become comfortable pulling, cleaning, replacing, and adjusting the carbs.

See less See more

Save

BC_Dan

· #7 · May 27, 2021

I may let TheBear weigh in on that... I do not want to give you any wrong advice! But most jets do have a hole in both ends. You should be able to poke a small wire through. If it was a jet up a tube (pilot jet), it should have a passage for fuel through the jet. That is the one that gets clogged. Try the wire to see if you can verify there was a hole there once... The ultrasound cleaner is a good choice, especially with the gas we get these days!

Save

BC_Dan

· #39 · Nov 3, 2021

Like KC said. The biggest issue with pistons is the skirts. As they wear, piston slap increases to the point that the skirts get thinner and can break off. When that happens, it's usually pretty catastrophic. I had one on my 700 let go, sent chunks of piston skirt through the crankcase. That was about a $2500 repair for all the parts that it needed to get back on the snow. Some engines are more prone to piston skirt failure than others (mid-90's ZR 580 engines from Arctic Cat are one of the worst, for example.) Smaller engines seem to go longer than larger, though.

Save

BC_Dan

· #59 · Jan 18, 2022

Most clutch pullers push on the end of the crankshaft. As you tighten the puller, it pushes hard enough to pop the clutch off. The outside of the primary should have threads that the puller engages.

Save

BC_Dan

· #62 · Jan 18, 2022

pulling clutches and removing and cleaning carbs are basic maintenance items that everyone should learn to do and do well. If you can do that, you will save a bunch of money over the life of the snowmobile in maintenance costs. You are on your way!

Save

BC_Dan

· #71 · Mar 15, 2022

Nothing ever goes as planned, huh. A whole bunch of significant learning opportunities await, I'm sure!

Save

1 - 7 of 81 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month