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I have to agree with BC_Dan on this, sounds like the clutch is the wrong one. Maybe from an earlier 377 motor that had a different taper on the shaft.

Post a picture of the clutch. I owned a 1996 Touring E and know just about every nut, bolt and rivet on the whole sled. The 1996 originally came with a Comet "bell" style clutch.
When mine went bad, I bought a used TRA. It made a big difference on how it would go through the snow. At the time, I was just tired of messing with the electric start system as it always seemed to have a problem, so I didn't transfer the ring gear. My nephew has the sled now and put the e-start back on it, along with reverse kit for his GF to ride.

Anyway, even with the TRA, the ring gear lined up just fine, so I would suspect the taper is off, which would mean your clutch alignment is also way off. Clutch might even wobble slightly.

Hard starting... 3 primes, hold throttle at 1/3 and pull until it fires. Use primer to keep it running. Takes about 2-5 primes (not all at once, one at a time before it dies) before it will run on its own.
To hold the throttle slightly open, I usually just stuff my glove in there and be quick to pull it out when it fires.


Note: that it will take longer to start it with the electric start. The reason for this is because the e-start turns the motor over at about 400 RPM, where a pull start turns it over around 600-800 RPM.
 
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That might take some doing if my eyes are not deceiving me, but that looks like a clutch off an 80's machine, maybe even 70's, like an Alpine.
Pretty sure it is not the original. Might want to look at the color of the spring inside too. Should be a stripe on it.

I think we need to verify the year. The 1995's were different from the 1996-1997s in many ways. If it says it was MFG in 1995, it is a 1996.

To give you an idea, mine had about a 4-5" space between the tub and the end of the clutch. This one looks to be about 1". Which means it isn't all the way on. Plus the moving half is wider.

Do you see a part number on that clutch anywhere? I'd be curious to nail it down better.
 

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Checked with my brother on the clutch, he says that is the same type of TRA that I put on mine. So it should fit just fine. I think the angle of the picture makes it look wider to me.
 

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I didn't even know there were different size ring gears for the Rotax.
 

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Really should be a metal gasket for the head.

You're going to need to get that cylinder bored out or replaced. Might see if you can find a replacement first, as boring might cost as much as a replacement.
 

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Take a picture of the clutch and post. Hopefully whoever replaced it, didn't screw up with the wrong taper.

Instead of water, try diesel. just a little. Like a teaspoon. Diesel pops when it is compressed. :)
 

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TRA clutch. Definitely not the original as Skidoo was using Comet Bell clutches on the 380s.

It is actually a better clutch.

TRA clutch puller will work just fine. Typically they are about $25.

What you can do is stand the engine up so you can spray some WD-40 or equivalent in the hole and let it sit for a few hours. If you notice the liquid coming out from behind the clutch, chances are the taper is wrong for the motor, but I really don't think that is an issue. With the WD-40 in there, after a few hours try doing the water trick, but with WD-40 instead. Even if it doesn't work, you would have forced WD-40 into the taper. Then let it sit for an hour again.
 

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There are two different TRA clutch pullers. One is for etecs and large motors. The other is for everything from 1992-2006. That clutch probably came off a 500 (check the spring), but it could have also come off an older 440 or larger machine.
 

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heat?

So another clutch I pulled off of a 1990's Skandic, I did the water trick and with the puller tight, applied heat to it and wait for it to pop.
 
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