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Supply for everything is shot the past few months and will continue. I need to find a GPU for my mom's computer and I can't touch one for less then 200 for a piece of garbage. Just glad I have a ton of parts at the house for the snowmobiles. One reason why I started to buy fuel line in 25 foot sections just better to have it since we live in the middle of nowhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
lmfao you bought that from a place that is close to me that I deal with all the time,lol.

You will like those skis. I have two sets of them and have had one set on 3 different Polaris snowmobiles. I run 8" carbides on the one and 6" carbides on the other but I also run studs as without them in this area I would be all over the place.
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lmfao you bought that from a place that is close to me that I deal with all the time,lol.

You will like those skis. I have two sets of them and have had one set on 3 different Polaris snowmobiles. I run 8" carbides on the one and 6" carbides on the other but I also run studs as without them in this area I would be all over the place.
That's what I'm wondering this is an older hard track and curious can I use the knuckles of the suspension or the axle bar to hold it up to do this ski swap here's my track next season I was probably gonna bring it into a shop and have them address everything I am ignoring for this one just want to get one season using er before spending alot to update stuff she will need new exhaust and probably a track most likely some other stuff I'll find out come the season truly but the skis definitely needed to be addressed
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
That's what I'm wondering this is an older hard track and curious can I use the knuckles of the suspension or the axle bar to hold it up to do this ski swap here's my track next season I was probably gonna bring it into a shop and have them address everything I am ignoring for this one just want to get one season using er before spending alot to update stuff she will need new exhaust and probably a track most likely some other stuff I'll find out come the season truly but the skis definitely needed to be addressed
Think I should be getting a new track or just give er in the winter and decide then
 

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I've seen worse out on the trails before. Just looks to be a standard 5/8" or so track from the '90s. I am not sure on clearances on that snowmobile. Someone else would know better exactly what will fit with studs and what not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well I can't get the exact make but once I figure the length out it'll confirm it for me I'm pretty sure she's 121*15.. 2.51 so I'd be good for a season atleast than probably grab one of the 1.25*121*15
 

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I have the ST version, the Mountain Max. It is the long track with a 136 track. It has a 1.10 inch tall lug. There is still some room in there between the cooling rails on top of the tunnel and the front of the tunnel. I would not go any higher than a 1.25. If you plan on studding the new track, you may be pushing it with clearance then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I have the ST version, the Mountain Max. It is the long track with a 136 track. It has a 1.10 inch tall lug. There is still some room in there between the cooling rails on top of the tunnel and the front of the tunnel. I would not go any higher than a 1.25. If you plan on studding the new track, you may be pushing it with clearance then.
Yeah I found the pitch is 2.51 or w.e the width is 15 and lengths 121 I feel the 1" to 1.25 track that's 2ply would be fine for er no studs I'll know what track will be best after this season just moved to where I am so I gotta check it out and see the generality of the area ..alot of lakes and rivers around so maybe next year I'll look into a new track
 

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Yeah then I would go with the 1.063" Ice Attack with built in studs into the track itself and be done with it. Or a .91" with 1" studs then 96 of them if you want to go that route. Personally I am going to the Ice Attack next time saves me from having to sit on my butt on the concrete floor with a drill installing studs for 3 hours,lol.

Should be a 15x121" track with 2.52 pitch as that is the norm for those years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Just curious I recently found out she needs 91 petrol I filled this 1/3 full with 87 ..would I be best to add a quarter bottle of octane boost run it through my first ride of the season.. put in a cleaner than fill with 91 or would she be fine with just the 87 for the first run before I add a cleaner and go to 91 petrol
 

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Where did you find that it takes 91? My 96 600 takes 87. They have the same motor, but different carbs. I run it all the time without any problems. If you want to run 91, just fill it the rest of the way with 91 and run it. No need for octane boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Okay yeah a few shops and some others forums say older 2 stroke 600s should be using 91 and since I forgot to run a cleaner in er before I put the Petro in I figured I'd see but yeah if 87s safe than okay I won't bother worrying and I'll run er low add the cleaner filler up first run
 

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Some areas 91 does not have Ethanol in it. So, that is why they say to run 91 when the manufacture calls for 87. All grades in my area have Ethanol, so I just run 87. The motor runs smooth and the spark plugs look good, so I stick with 87.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I'm in Ontario Canada near blind river I talked to a couple shops that specialize in powersports they said I should run 91 since she's a 94 600cc 2 stroke but I guess the only way to know is winter time.because the temp atm her exhaust burns a bit thick so I can't really get anything from it until we hit below 0 atleast she starts first pull no issues but yeah I was reading alot of the older ones need the higher stuff but like you said depends on the mixture in my area I'm assuming
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I finally got my hot stapler for repairing plastic and fibreglass cracks so I'm gonna be using this week to get the hood sanded down lightly the few cracks stapled together with a nice clear Bondo styler filler than giver er a new coat of red some stickers and clear coat the skis should be in within a week or two so I'll have er all rdy in time for the season if I can keep the garage warm enough
 

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My only suggestion would be to go to a Idirium Plug or something like that from NGK or E3. I get 3-4 times the amount of spark plug usage out of my NGK BR8EIX Plugs vs the BR8ES plugs mine calls for. And yeah just run 87, I do run octane boost in mine but that is because it has a cleaner as well built into it from Lucas and anything that helps keeps those carbs clean during the season is easier on me with a small garage that has no heat!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I have a question because I had body damage to the hood some serious cracks and she's fibreglass I used a fibreglass Bondo that works great with dime size repairs I smoothed it out let it dry buutt I gone done went cheap without thinking and got here all primed up with painters touch 2x rustoleum she's dry bit great looks nice with the flat white but should I be worried due to temp resistance and sand it all off and start fresh or since she's a fibreglass good she should have some inner heat resistance I haven't seen anything bad about it but everything is up in cost so I saved some flow on a cheap used sled to make er look decent but if that's a bad idea lmk please
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I only got the one coat of base primer on er ...she's to cold this weekend even with the heaters going so this week I'm gonna add a second coat sand it down do a coat of pearl white let dry than do the side vents red than clear coat it come next season completely do the body to match
 

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