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Discussion Starter #41
Yes I have 3 my dad and I split them the 95 has never been modified and looks and starts good we sucked out all oil and put back the new polaris oil. I keep the gas key off and I go to start it a week later and with half choke on it takes 5 to 7 pulls to start it is this normal? I didn't know it had full choke ontil today. When I first got it which was a couple weeks ago I left the gas key on and it would start in 1 to 2 pulls but that might have been because it was started every day.
 

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I always shut the gas valve off when not in use. Also yes they have full choke on them. Yeah clean the carburetors and all the jets. Use a small piece of wire, carb cleaner and compressed air to do it. Put a mark on each carburetor with a white marker is what I use. When I had a Ultra 680 it was a triple and I would put 1, 2, 3 in order from left to right so I know where each carburetor came from as the jets were different in one of the carburetors. I do the same when working on my primary clutch as well. I put white marker above the bolts on the top of the clutch as those clutches are balance and the face should be put back exactly where it came off. I also use blue loctite on those small bolts and do not use a torque wrench on them going tight with the socket set is perfect. I go as tight as I can get them another half turn as it is aluminum. I also use a dry graphite lube on them, Comet sells it but at 20 bucks screw that you can buy that stuff at the hardware store or auto parts stores for 8 bucks. I am going to my parental units soon and I can post what we use. Some do not lube those, we do as it coats and protects some of the workings of the primary clutch. Also those secondary clutches have secondary buttons that need to be replaced every 1500-2000 miles. I can point you in the right direction of those as well. And if it has a red spring in the secondary junk those and put in a gold or black spring from Polaris as they are exactly the same LB rating 24/49 and makes a good improvement on the back shifting.

Also NEVER use starting fluid to start up a 2-stroke engine, that stuff was made for diesel engines. Use a small amount of gasoline in each spark plug hole if it is hard to start or won't start up after a long lay off. Also during the off-season we spray in small bit of pi-oil or something close to it and turn over the engines every month to make sure it doesn't lock up in the off-season.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Ok, thank you so much for all your advice and I will use it. I'm going to get some sleep now, I'm sure I will be talking with you soon maybe even tomorrow. Again thank you so much talk to you soon.
 

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So I've seen all the info about the earlier 600 monoblocks like my 1995 XLT Touring causing trouble. It's got the stock muffler but doesn't have the extra oil line mod like some had done. I got a great deal on synthetic recently so I bought enough for the next two seasons and will keep running the good stuff in it.

I'm really only expecting to maybe put 500 miles on the sled in a season, and considering the wife will be coming with me we probably won't hit more than 50-60mph tops. Likely cruise around at 40-50. (I'll give it the beans a few times on my own though cause, well, I gotta see what it's capable of!)

It's got 8500 miles on the odo. so I'm assuming if it was prone to crank failure it would have shown itself already. I'm hoping with the good oil, premium fuel and a good maintenance regimen it will hold up a few years so I can save for a newer touring. Would love to get into a 4-stroke but also nice to stay in the vintage age range because it drops the price of our provincial trail passes to $75 bucks annually instead of $200, $300 if bought after new year's.

I'm in PEI, Canada and our winters are unpredictable at best. We got a dusting last night, another area an hour away from me got 4 inches last night. We'll not get any real lasting snow until Christmas or new year's. And it's generally spotty from melting by mid March.
 

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So I've seen all the info about the earlier 600 monoblocks like my 1995 XLT Touring causing trouble. It's got the stock muffler but doesn't have the extra oil line mod like some had done. I got a great deal on synthetic recently so I bought enough for the next two seasons and will keep running the good stuff in it.

I'm really only expecting to maybe put 500 miles on the sled in a season, and considering the wife will be coming with me we probably won't hit more than 50-60mph tops. Likely cruise around at 40-50. (I'll give it the beans a few times on my own though cause, well, I gotta see what it's capable of!)

It's got 8500 miles on the odo. so I'm assuming if it was prone to crank failure it would have shown itself already. I'm hoping with the good oil, premium fuel and a good maintenance regimen it will hold up a few years so I can save for a newer touring. Would love to get into a 4-stroke but also nice to stay in the vintage age range because it drops the price of our provincial trail passes to $75 bucks annually instead of $200, $300 if bought after new year's.

I'm in PEI, Canada and our winters are unpredictable at best. We got a dusting last night, another area an hour away from me got 4 inches last night. We'll not get any real lasting snow until Christmas or new year's. And it's generally spotty from melting by mid March.
Edit, after a bit of reading I'm seeing that most of the issues were with the -03 XLT engines that were on standard XLT and XLT SKS but that the -04 version (on the Touring) was slightly different and didn't have similar issues. Any insight on this? Maybe just due to different performance tuning and setup?
 

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It was all mono-block 580s up till the '97 that had issues of some sort. From the oiling option where you have to drill a hole in the crank to the oil pump issues and so on. Finally by '97 they had fixed all of them including a 5 port oil pump as well. That mono-block wasn't just used in XLT's it was used in the XCR's as well.
 

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So, my '95 is the 597cc... Hoping that might mean I've got a smaller chance of the issue?
 

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Only the Euro models came with the 597cc that I am aware of. Although it is possible for you Canucks to have gotten a Euro model being well seems like snowmobiles up there tend to be a little different with the EPA stuff. I would just watch it is all. With 8,500 miles though I would be shocked if it never had at least 1 rebuild on it. But I have had 440s and 500s go that long and still be perfect compression but never a triple.
 

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The 95 tourings were 597's. Mine had a top end done last year, can't confirm if the crank was ever done though.
65326
 

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Telling ya I only saw Euro models with those, and I sold those snowmobiles back then :). Either way they are still a mono-block design and they had issues. At this point I think you are safe. While that manual is very useful it was also wrong in some spots. Several dealerships back then tried to get it fixed but Polaris said nope its done leave it be and keep that information for the future when you work on said snowmobiles. Yours being Canadian it very well is a Euro model.
 
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