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Rick
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yes a 92 is black with pink on the seat. well thats what mine has.
 

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Rick
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this is a 92 minus some stickers
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Nice looking sled. Well I figured out what the problem was on the sled......wait for it.....its something simple........remember when I mentioned that the previous owner had issues just recently with it and he had it in my friends shop before I bought it......well he filled the sled with Diesel fuel. Yep, you heard me right, DIESEL FUEL, the whole tank. I am surprised my buddy was even able to get it running that day. We drained the tank completely, put 5 gallons of premium fuel in it to bring the octane back up, cycled the pump a few times into a drain bucket. Reconnected the lines and within 4-5 pulls it started. Ran it around for about 20 min, shut it off, restarted on the 3rd pull, ran it around some more, shut it down, restarted on 2nd pull.

Also tested for a battery draw with handle bar switch off, no drain. Tested with key off, no battery drain. Tested with both on, engine off no drain. So I think the battery should be safe to stay connected. The main issue now, is that the fuel pump is now acting up, have to tap it to get it to run. Will have to find a decent used one, new ones are expensive.

So there you have it, it is alive and running. As for the pics, I promise to post some, my camera batteries died on me tonight.
 

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Rick
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well this is what it looks like now. i think i'm going back to all black next year. what ya think?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok, so I got the sled running after having to replace the original Stator. I got a 9.5 mile ride out of the sled. It ran great, then poof, lost all power. Got it back to shop and did some testing. .:mad:. My replacement stator, onlt had 2500miles on it, died. So now I am concerned that either the stator just died, or I have a short somewhere that killed it.

Any suggestions guys? I have went over the wiring harness 3 times. What on this EFI system could possibly kill a stator? I was able to get a wiring diagram and proceeded to check everything I could while it is not running. Could the rectifier cause the stator to burn out?
 

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Ok you seem to be jumping around I am wondering the thought process here. First it was the battery then it was diesel now you say you have burned two stators????
What tests did you do to determine the stator is faulty ??? Sepecifically which coil in the stator is going bad? Which coil in the old stator went bad? Do you still have spark?

The EFI system cannot "burn" out a stator.

The conditions you are describing sounds more like your ACS is failing, not your stator. Did you check that? If the ACS acts up , the computer will intermittantly shut down.
 

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---------(PI488)---------
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hey indy rider 500 do u kno if u want to sell the back bogey wheels on ur 500 sp i would really like thoes for my sled if not where can i get some
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ok you seem to be jumping around I am wondering the thought process here. First it was the battery then it was diesel now you say you have burned two stators????
What tests did you do to determine the stator is faulty ??? Sepecifically which coil in the stator is going bad? Which coil in the old stator went bad? Do you still have spark?

The EFI system cannot "burn" out a stator.

The conditions you are describing sounds more like your ACS is failing, not your stator. Did you check that? If the ACS acts up , the computer will intermittantly shut down.
Ok, I will try and walk you through it. I picked up the sled because the previous owner got fed up with it not starting. Upon getting the sled I first checked the battery - It was Bad, so I replaced it. Still could not get it to run. I then went through the wiring harness to make sure there were no broken wires or bad connections - found a few 'Green Corroded' connections repaired. Still would not start, friend of mine came over and while I was double checking things, he noticed that the fuel smelled funny. We then pulled a fuel sample and found that the previous owner had filled the sled with Diesel fuel. We drained the tank, flushed the fuel lines, refilled with Gasoline. Sled started on the fifth pull.

Now the sled will start, great. Had some things going on so I let the sled sit for a few days. Went to start the sled, wanted to take it for a ride, would not start. Noticed that the Fuel Pump would not run, had my friend tap on Pump while I pulled it over, pump started and sled started. Found a used working pump and replaced the old one. Now sled starts on one and a half pulls. Great!!

Couple days later, decided to take it for a test run. Would not start, went over wiring, checked relays, tested battery. All in working order, as I was pulling the sled over, my friend noticed that the Head Light was not lighting up. Decided to check the voltage out of the stator. Hooked up tester, pulled over and only have voltage on the coil side. Found a replacement stator that had only 2500 miles on it, replaced stator and sled started on 2nd pull. Great.

Now that the sled seemed to be in working order, took it out with 2 friends on a test ride, roughly 18 miles total. Sled was running perfect, no noticeable issues. But on the way back, I all of the sudden lost all electrical power. I was doing about 35mph down the trail and the sled just started to bog, headlight went in and out, then nothing. Opened hood, looked over wiring, pulled sled over a couple times and my friend noticed no Head Light again when pulling over.

Got the sled back to the shop, went over everything I could think of. Got myself a wiring diagram, went through testing procedures for a No start condition. When I got the the ACS test, I had no voltage from the ACS to the EFI. Procedure then stated to test the Alternator side(Stator). Tested, only has voltage on the coil side again.

So that is where I am sitting at this moment.
 

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Rick
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yea i still got it bro.
 

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how much do u want for them
 

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Ok, I will try and walk you through it. I picked up the sled because the previous owner got fed up with it not starting. Upon getting the sled I first checked the battery - It was Bad, so I replaced it. Still could not get it to run. I then went through the wiring harness to make sure there were no broken wires or bad connections - found a few 'Green Corroded' connections repaired. Still would not start, friend of mine came over and while I was double checking things, he noticed that the fuel smelled funny. We then pulled a fuel sample and found that the previous owner had filled the sled with Diesel fuel. We drained the tank, flushed the fuel lines, refilled with Gasoline. Sled started on the fifth pull.

Now the sled will start, great. Had some things going on so I let the sled sit for a few days. Went to start the sled, wanted to take it for a ride, would not start. Noticed that the Fuel Pump would not run, had my friend tap on Pump while I pulled it over, pump started and sled started. Found a used working pump and replaced the old one. Now sled starts on one and a half pulls. Great!!

Couple days later, decided to take it for a test run. Would not start, went over wiring, checked relays, tested battery. All in working order, as I was pulling the sled over, my friend noticed that the Head Light was not lighting up. Decided to check the voltage out of the stator. Hooked up tester, pulled over and only have voltage on the coil side. Found a replacement stator that had only 2500 miles on it, replaced stator and sled started on 2nd pull. Great.

Now that the sled seemed to be in working order, took it out with 2 friends on a test ride, roughly 18 miles total. Sled was running perfect, no noticeable issues. But on the way back, I all of the sudden lost all electrical power. I was doing about 35mph down the trail and the sled just started to bog, headlight went in and out, then nothing. Opened hood, looked over wiring, pulled sled over a couple times and my friend noticed no Head Light again when pulling over.

Got the sled back to the shop, went over everything I could think of. Got myself a wiring diagram, went through testing procedures for a No start condition. When I got the the ACS test, I had no voltage from the ACS to the EFI. Procedure then stated to test the Alternator side(Stator). Tested, only has voltage on the coil side again.

So that is where I am sitting at this moment.
Ok then first off the headlight is a completely separate circuit from the EFI charge coil and is not related. You mention you noticed the headlight went dim and the sled started to run badly at the same time. since we know the two systems are not related we have to look for a problem which would effect both systems at the same time. My first reaction here is to check grounds from engine block to chassis because the lighting coil and the charging system both require a good ground to function properly. There is a cluster of ground wires at the front of the engine known for corroding on this model and that is what I would be checking. If you have a manual then you know there are resistance checks there for each individual coil in the stator and my bet is you will find both the old and the new stator is fine.
 

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Rick
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Discussion Starter #35
I did a resistance check on the Stator in the Engine and the Old Stator, ironically I got the same values. Grey to Grey/White - .24 ohms / Brown/White to Grey/White - Nothing.

As for the Headlight, I know it is on a separate circuit that is why I was concerned about the Stator. I made sure to clean the area where the cluster of ground wires connect to the engine.
 

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The stator test you mentioned gry to gry/w ...spec is .2 to .4 ohms so you are good there. This is the battery charge coil, so it checks out.

The exciter coil brn/w to blk/r should read 164 ohms.

The lighting coil yel to brn should read .2 to .4 ohms.

there should be no continuity between the brn/w and the gry/w on a 92 500 EFI.

Were you perhaps using specs from a newer 500 EFI to check the stator ?

As for your intermittant running Check that the fuel pump cycles once when the key is turned to the right and that the "ready" lamp lights. Next check that each time the cord is pulled you hear the fuel pump cycle again. This prat is very important , you must hear the pump cycle each and every time the cord is pulled. If you do not first check that you have good spark. If spark is good but the pump does not cycle check the continuity of the blk/w wire from the CDI to the ECU. It is common for this wire to break low down near the intake side of the engine. Yours may be hanging by a thread causing intermittant running. You may have disturbed it changing the stator which would explain the engine running after you did that.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
You are the man mrholmquist, I am indeed going off of a different year than mine, I am having trouble finding information on a 1993 Indy 500 EFI. So this is my next questions, is the 1992 the same as the 1993?

I will retest with what you have provided. I know for a fact that I am not getting the pump to cycle at all, on my sled I do not have the option of turning the key to one more position to cycle the pump. I have tested the pump and it does run, I have excellent spark like I always do.

I will check the wire running from the CDI to the ECU, I will let you know what I get.

Thanks again.
 

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Rick
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bring it over!!!!!!!!
 

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Yes.... 93 I should have reviewed the entire thread. the 93 and the 92 stators are the same , so the specs I gave you are the ones you need. Since it is a 93 and not a 92 the info I gave you re the ready light and also the turning the key does not apply. The 93 used a device known as an ACS (alternator controlled switch) to activate the ECU instead of the key. The ACS looks like a voltage regulator and is located near the battery. ACS problems seem to be becoming quite common on this model probably due to age. If an ACS starts to fail it will often give you intermittant issues similar to the conditions you are describing. If the ACS does not power up the EFI computer there will be no fuel pump operation as well as no fuel injected. The ACS will have a red wire
which goes to the battery , an orange/blk to the computer , and a gray and gray white which go to the stator. Disconnect the orange/blk wire at the ACS and temporarily run a jumper wire to the batt pos terminal which will power the computer. If the sled runs properly then the ACS is most likely at fault. Make sure the sled is charging the battery and voltage is between 13.6 and 14.6 volts at 4000 rpm. The bad news is the ACS has been discontinued and if you find it is no good there is no replacement available. Let me know if that is the case and I can give you some ideas as to how to work around that. Let me know what you find .
 
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