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A lot of the chaincases in the older sleds didn't have a drain. To change the fluid, I would tip the sled on its side (chaincase up), remove the chaincase cover. Use a turkey baster (don't let your wife catch you doing this!!) or syphon tube to remove the oil. Then you can put the sled on its skis and use something like WD40 or carb cleaner to clean out all the junk that has accumulated that did not come out with the oil. Stuff a bunch of rags or paper towels under the chaincase to corral the oil so you make less mess.

There are some specific fluids to use in chaincase. The best would be synthetic chaincase fluid, but it's a bit spendy. But a quart will do two-three sleds, so it still isn't going to cause a lot of economic hardship. A lot of folks have used ATF as an adequate replacement. Most chaincases do not contain gears, so thicker gear oil is not necessary. Thicker oils do not penetrate into the chain links as well as a thinner fluid like chaincase oil or ATF. Some guys just use what ever they have on hand, such as motor oil. Mobile 1 synthetic is pretty popular, but it costs almost as much as the appropriate fluid. I used 2-stroke oil one time in a pinch when a guy I was riding with broke a reverse part in a chaincase 15 miles from the snow park. We fixed it on the snow and It worked. He left it in for the rest of the season before getting around to fixing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
A lot of the chaincases in the older sleds didn't have a drain. To change the fluid...
Thats a lot of info, thanks! I'll likely just run to my local snowmobile dealer, I'm pretty sure they're even Arctic Cat! If you think one quart will last me three machines, then its certainly worth the cost. I believe my machine has a drain? or maybe it's a level inspection hole, plus the fill hole. Either way, it'll be nice to open it up so I can have a visual of the condition of everything inside there, and give it all a nice clean. The last thing I need is to do all this, and I'm running with pure sludge inside the chain case lol
 

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If you premix to be safe with your oil pump working as well, you are definitely getting too much oil'
I have heard everything from ATF to Hyd fluid to just 40w!
Personally I use a mix of Syn 10w40 and Syn Lucas oil treatment.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
If you premix to be safe with your oil pump working as well, you are definitely getting too much oil'
I have heard everything from ATF to Hyd fluid to just 40w!
Personally I use a mix of Syn 10w40 and Syn Lucas oil treatment.
The oil pump is entirely disconnected. The lines were also lost in the inspection, I've just been running it with only mixed fuel. I will eventually attempt to reinstall all the oil lines and test the pump but until I get a chance to do that properly, I figured running mixed fuel was the safest bet.
 

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I'm not sure on the Jag, but on some of the internal driven pumps, the pump itself is lubricated by the oil. In those type sleds, you can run a hose from the oil tank to the pump, then back from the pump to the tank so the oil circulates and keeps the pump lubricated. You can also remove the pump completely and install a plate to keep the crankcase sealed.

KC may be able to tell you if that's an issue in your Jag...
 

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Don't know on that but I would replace the oil lines FIRST so that while testing it will have time to get lines filled!
On a fresh motor I will premix a couple of gallons of fuel not a full tank.
Then with a wire I pull the oil pump cable to full oil, it will fill lines faster!
 

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Yeah a dry pump usually ruins them. Just an endless loop with oil in it is better than nothing. At least that way you would have the option of using it in the future.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Okay, so Im just trying to wrap my head around all this and you'll have to forgive my lack of knowledge.

I have three outlets coming from my oil tank, two (Top and bottom) I believe run a loop to oil level gauge, the other (bottom) runs to the motor which I assume is the injection line, other than that I see no outlets.

Will running the machine on mixed fuel without using the injector system damage the motor?
 

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No won't damage the motor. It's the injector pump that would go bad. The real issue too is that if you run it dry for long enough it could seize up and then ruin the gear inside the crank between the two cylinders. Or wherever the pump gets it's power from.

Steve
 

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What I am saying is with out those oil lines you now have an air leak!
Yes it is bad for the pump with out oil, but it could lean out and ruin the motor!
 
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