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1980 yamaha ss440 OPPS sunk

10K views 71 replies 13 participants last post by  MontanaCat 
#1 ·
so i just sunk it in the river, took 2 hours to get it out, so now its out in the garage i took the plugs out the exhaust off turned it over got most of the water out, wat are my next steps, im probley gonna have to pull the carb off and what else?

thanks
 
#4 ·
Check the cank case, you want to drain that really good. Drain the gas tank, clean the carbs, replace the gas lines because water is probably in them, check everything else throughly
to drain the tank and oil ihad to pull them right off the machine, so i took the carbs off was full of water the airbox and so on, im looking for plugs to drain the case but cant find any, i think ima just take the engine out.

i gotta this far apart i might as well repaint/fix the chassis up. if i just put some gas in the cylinders *when i got the water all out* and if it fires, it will run?, i should have to worry about anything being wrong with anything electrical?

 
#8 ·
clutch puller it has just enough room to wiggle out thats one of the uses of the access hole the other thing i do is spray wd40 in both cylinders with plugs out pull till ur arm falls off ive found the wd helps pull the water to the top of the cylinder so you can get it out.
 
#15 ·
Should of put oil in the cylinders. When you do get it running again, run premix if you replaced your oil lines. There could be air trapped in them, and if the air gets into the injector and the sled runs without oil for the time it takes to get the air bubble out, your motor would be toast. Run 50:1 until the air is worked out, better to foul plugs than destroy pistons.
 
#19 ·
Just noticed this new post. I don't understand what's happened here, how come the puller can't be backed out?
well i got puller out but i think i stripped the threads on the clutch..now what.
then engine must come out if i look down the intake there is icy snow, should i just part the sled, and be done with it? i paid 300 for it, i love it but i think i destoryed it lol
 
#20 ·
Can you get a heat gun? Maybe if you heat the inside of the fixed sheave, it will expand the aluminum enough to get it free of the crank taper. I'd heat it and try prying with a piece of wood. It's unlikely you're going to hurt anything, and it just might be enough to get it loose.

If the extractor thread really is hosed, the clutch will still bolt on and work fine. As you know, the problem with the SS/SRV/XLV chassis is the stupid way they have the PTO side crank run through the frame. If you ever needed to remove your engine again, you'd be right back to square 1.

You can get parts for Comet clutches on Ebay, usually for reasonable prices. You can also find them on craigslist most of the time.

If the sled were mine, I'd keep trying. Those are nice sleds and worth saving if it can be done.

LMK how you do removing the clutch.

-Strato-
 
#21 ·
PLAN B!

witch probley shoulda been plan A but i wanted to get the engine out and clean the chasis up but i can always do that in the summer

so i flipped her, got a heater on it wil lleave it over nite 2morrow ill put some gas in the cylinders and c if it fires



thanks for all your help guys, ill keep this updated.
 
#22 ·
so i assembled most of it, just to get it running fired 5th pull!
ran for about 5 mins then quit, then wouldnt start inless i cracked the throttle, and wouldnt idle, so idk what the deal is, ill finish putting it together 2morrow and hope it works, i may have moved a screw on the carb ill have too look at it 2morrow
 
#28 ·
another question iv been using castrol super injected oil for snowmobiles well i need oil and i was in an Esso (EXXON, Imperial Oil) gas station the other day and i happened to notice this 2-stroke oil on the shelf called
"Esso Easymix". I wouldn't have given it a second glance but it says "premium quality synthetic blend" on the bottle and it only costs $3.50 a litre!

The back of the bottle reads as follows:

A premium synthetic blend, low ash 2-cycle oil for all air cooled and some liquid cooled engines. Recommended for 2-cycle engines requiring API TC, JASO FB, JASO FC, or ISO EGD quality oil. Also recommended for chainsaws, motorcycles, mopeds, ATVs, generators, water pumps, lawn/garden equipment requiring the above quality oil.
-Formulation gives low-temp protection down to -40 degrees
-Excellent low-smoke performance and reduced odor
-Suitable for oil injection and pre-mix up to 100:1 fuel/oil ratio where recommended - see owners manual

im just woundering if this would be ok to use to injected snowmbiles, cause its a easy mix im not sure if its the same thing.
 
#31 ·
i need some more help
theres a cable running from the oil pump to the carb and hooks up to the throttle lever then the throttle hooks up well it was so tight (the cable) that i cant squeeze the throttle and when i just tap it the clutch ingages so im thinking it reving to high, if need be i can post pics of what im talking about if im not clear
 
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