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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i just sunk it in the river, took 2 hours to get it out, so now its out in the garage i took the plugs out the exhaust off turned it over got most of the water out, wat are my next steps, im probley gonna have to pull the carb off and what else?

thanks
 

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so i just sunk it in the river, took 2 hours to get it out, so now its out in the garage i took the plugs out the exhaust off turned it over got most of the water out, wat are my next steps, im probley gonna have to pull the carb off and what else?

thanks
Check the cank case, you want to drain that really good. Drain the gas tank, clean the carbs, replace the gas lines because water is probably in them, check everything else throughly
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
throw some oil in the cylinders and oil them puppies up
Check the cank case, you want to drain that really good. Drain the gas tank, clean the carbs, replace the gas lines because water is probably in them, check everything else throughly
to drain the tank and oil ihad to pull them right off the machine, so i took the carbs off was full of water the airbox and so on, im looking for plugs to drain the case but cant find any, i think ima just take the engine out.

i gotta this far apart i might as well repaint/fix the chassis up. if i just put some gas in the cylinders *when i got the water all out* and if it fires, it will run?, i should have to worry about anything being wrong with anything electrical?

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How do i get this motor out!!

the engine runs through the tunnel and the sheave wont fit through it but how to i pull the clutch off if theres no room its right next to the side..



 

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clutch puller it has just enough room to wiggle out thats one of the uses of the access hole the other thing i do is spray wd40 in both cylinders with plugs out pull till ur arm falls off ive found the wd helps pull the water to the top of the cylinder so you can get it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
clutch puller it has just enough room to wiggle out thats one of the uses of the access hole the other thing i do is spray wd40 in both cylinders with plugs out pull till ur arm falls off ive found the wd helps pull the water to the top of the cylinder so you can get it out.
theres anuff room for a puller? how is that possible i got the bolt out through that hole.
all the pullers i have access to r at work idk how ima find one that fits.
 

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puller should go in where bolt came out has a nipple as u tighten it pulls the clutch off
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
puller should go in where bolt came out has a nipple as u tighten it pulls the clutch off
o so it has to be a special puller eh, i was just thinking about using pullers iv got at work.. could u show me what these pullers look like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks, and this will work? ill see if i ahve one if not ill just buy this, but this will remove the sheave to?
sled is sitting in the garage, went to go turn it over and its frozen. still trying to find a clutch puller to pull the engine off, i poured oil in the cylinders i hope once i get the clutch off it will still be ok.
 

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Should of put oil in the cylinders. When you do get it running again, run premix if you replaced your oil lines. There could be air trapped in them, and if the air gets into the injector and the sled runs without oil for the time it takes to get the air bubble out, your motor would be toast. Run 50:1 until the air is worked out, better to foul plugs than destroy pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Should of put oil in the cylinders. When you do get it running again, run premix if you replaced your oil lines. There could be air trapped in them, and if the air gets into the injector and the sled runs without oil for the time it takes to get the air bubble out, your motor would be toast. Run 50:1 until the air is worked out, better to foul plugs than destroy pistons.
ok will do

well new problem i got a clutch puller it fit so it thought so i cranked it down and now its bottoming out and the clutch is still on and i cant reverse the puller..so idk ewhat ima do
 

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theres anuff room for a puller? how is that possible i got the bolt out through that hole.
all the pullers i have access to r at work idk how ima find one that fits.
That clutch looks like a Comet 102-c. They have 2-piece pullers for those that work well in limited space applications like this. It has a small rod that fits inside the hole, and another rod with threads and a bolt head that engages the puller thread on the outside. One side of the puller is cupped and the other is radiused so they won't slip apart in use. Put grease into the cupped part. It works just like a regular puller once it's in place, just turn the bolt head until your clutch pops off.

If you're having MAJOR clearance issues, you can use the grease gun trick.... get a bolt with the same pitch as the extractor thread (I think it's M16 x 1.5 in a Comet) drill a hole all the way through the center, then drill and tap it to accept a grease fitting. Screw it tightly into the extractor thread on your clutch, then snap a grease gun onto the fitting. You should be able to get the end of the grease gun onto the fitting by reaching it in through the access hole. Pump it full of grease until it pops free.

Why Yamaha saw fit to run the PTO side of the crank THROUGH the frame, I'll never figure....

Good luck w/ your SS. Awesome sleds!
 

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ok will do

well new problem i got a clutch puller it fit so it thought so i cranked it down and now its bottoming out and the clutch is still on and i cant reverse the puller..so idk ewhat ima do
Just noticed this new post. I don't understand what's happened here, how come the puller can't be backed out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just noticed this new post. I don't understand what's happened here, how come the puller can't be backed out?
well i got puller out but i think i stripped the threads on the clutch..now what.
then engine must come out if i look down the intake there is icy snow, should i just part the sled, and be done with it? i paid 300 for it, i love it but i think i destoryed it lol
 

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Can you get a heat gun? Maybe if you heat the inside of the fixed sheave, it will expand the aluminum enough to get it free of the crank taper. I'd heat it and try prying with a piece of wood. It's unlikely you're going to hurt anything, and it just might be enough to get it loose.

If the extractor thread really is hosed, the clutch will still bolt on and work fine. As you know, the problem with the SS/SRV/XLV chassis is the stupid way they have the PTO side crank run through the frame. If you ever needed to remove your engine again, you'd be right back to square 1.

You can get parts for Comet clutches on Ebay, usually for reasonable prices. You can also find them on craigslist most of the time.

If the sled were mine, I'd keep trying. Those are nice sleds and worth saving if it can be done.

LMK how you do removing the clutch.

-Strato-
 
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