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Discussion Starter #1
I've got this clutch semi-apart, but really need to take it down to just bits and pieces so I can clean them all up. The ramps and rollers seem to be in good shape except for a bit of rust and dust build up. It sprang apart right after this picture was taken. There are 3 small bolts/set screws, I've backed out all the way, but still can't get the center piece off.

There is a bunch of rust, so WD-40 has been used a lot. Yes, I know, dry all the pieces off when assembling, but I needed to put something on to get things apart.

Also, any tricks to getting the secondary off? I've tried whacking it slightly just to see if I could get it to break loose.
Yes, I did take the bolt off.

IMG_7034.jpg
 

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That is the dreaded AC "Hex" clutch, and is not well thought of. There is some info online regarding them. I've never worked on one, although eventually when I get around to doing something with the Cheetah that is taking up space around here, I am sure I will have to learn ;)

So.. once you get it figured out, don't forget to post a LOT of pictures! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will do... I thought I had a service manual for that sled, but can't seem to find it anywhere. Guess I'll look around online to see if there is a PDF.
 

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Eh no biggie I found that box site with all the manuals by accident one day. I've since downloaded and kept most of the Polaris ones on a dvd. I might do that with all of them in case that site ever goes down or someone deletes the files. There is a ton of good service manuals on that page that if they were gone would end being a tragic event as so many service manuals are just lost over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks Coolhand, yes, Figure 6-14 on page 91 is the break apart of the clutch.

debating on whether or not to replace the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
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Discussion Starter #12
Some helpful hints.
- You can use the clutch puller with a couple washers to compress the spring back together.

- When trying to remove the spider, the set screws go into holes that are about 3mm deep. That is all you need to back the screws out. (well, 4mm to be sure).

- Spider is removed by pushing the spider down and removing the two C pieces that form the retainer ring.

- The inside parts of the clutch halves that touch the shaft are made of fiberglass. They have set screws, but I can't seem to find where you can buy the inserts separately. I was thinking of replacing them as one seems to wobble a bit more than I would expect. But with both connected, it doesn't wobble as much.

IMG_7041.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
65200
65201
65202
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Explaining the pictures.

First one, there was a lot of rust on mine, so I had to pound the spider down to release the C-retainers, then used a puller to pull the spider off the shaft. Normally it should slide pretty easy, but this clutch probably has never been apart in the 40 years of its life.

Second Picture: That is the Spider back in after cleaning. I did mark the spider and clutch for direction they should be, but the mark on the spider disappeared during cleaning so I had to take an educated guess.

Third Picture: All the parts laid out on the bench. Inner and outer halves, cover, spider, C-retainer, spring, spring Cup. Missing from the picture are the three allen-bolts that hold the cover and outer half together and the main clutch bolt.

In all, this clutch is a pretty simple design. Not sure how to get the rollers off, I didn't even try as they looked "good enough" for that old sled. Didn't want to cause more issues.


I did get the secondary off. Turned out it was easier than I thought it was going to be. Put a pry bar behind it and some minor taps with a mallet and it popped right off. I have it apart. Kind of surprised of how good of condition things are, but they do need cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Uhg, secondary issue... Well, more like a mechanic issue. Took the secondary apart and now see that the spring has 4 spots it can go back into. Have no clue of which one it was in.

Closest thing I could find in the manuals I do have is another 440 that it says to put in 2nd hole and give it 120 degrees of counterclockwise load.

For some reason, the only manuals I can find online are partials or suppliments.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'll most likely do exactly that. I have a feeling the spring is weak anyway, so going tighter will help prolong the need to replace. (ha)

Thanks!
 
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