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Discussion Starter #1
what is belt deflection? i herd about shimming and the distance between the primary belt and the side of the clutch what should i check and where should i make an adjustment what would i want and what wouldnt i want? whats stock and whats modifiedthankss
also if i have a yellow epi primary spring and 1062 weights i want to put 1060 in would it be better? or worse
and i have a 21 tooth gear should i go back to the 23tooth?

01 600 edge x
3"riser
snow stuff can
blue progressive secondary spring helix in thrid hole
yellow epi primary 1062 weights
21 tooth gear from 23
380jets
45 piolet
down one on needle jet clip
 

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To measure belt deflection, with both clutches at rest, place a straight edge on the belt that will bridge both clutches. Press down in the center. Measure the distance from the belt to the straight edge. Polaris should be about 1 1/4". A properly adjusted belt will sit about 1/8" outside of the secondary. A belt with too little deflection may cause the primary clutch to grab the belt at idle, causing the sled to creep forward. A belt that is too loose will cause bogging and premature wear of the belt.

On your Edge, the secondary should have a gold-colored cam adjuster, marked 1-3-5. To change the deflection, pull the belt into the secondary (to take the stress off the cam adjuster bolts) and loosen the three bolts. Rotate the adjuster counter-clockwise to reduce the distance between sheaves to compensate for belt wear. When you install a new belt, you may have to rotate the adjuster clockwise to increase the distance between sheaves to accomodate the new belt.

As far as setup, what is the sled doing that you don't like? Going to lighter weights will usually increase the maximum RPM, which may put you out of the powerband. If the sled is hitting the powerband at full throttle, you won't want to change much. Going from a 23 to a 21 tooth sprocket will make you lose some top speed, but will give you better acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so..

belt diflection is just how high the belt sits up in the secondary.
you said it should be 1 1/4 from the belt to the straight edge is there adjustment for that if there isnt? how would i adjust that. i know about the three bolts ill check where its sitting and where it measures.thanks i also noticed two little rips in my diphrams im getting new ones. its not hitting 8200 its hitting 78 7900 but once i get diaphrams this might change so ill wait before i put the 1060 in it
also the 21 tooth gear i had to customizr the tensoiner screw because the chain is to long it works fine and have done this many of times but i think it would be smother idk i just dont like how much the chain is pushed in and my buddy says it works fine we done it before i just dont trust it
thankss
 

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When you move the sheaves of the secondary closer together using the cam adjuster, it pushes the belt out farther in the secondary, which will reduce the deflection. Moving the sheaves closer together lowers the belt in the secondary and increases belt deflection.

I like running chains that have as little dogleg in them as possible. Polaris has a gearing chart to guide you in what sprockets work with what chains and which chaincases they go in. I try to use the shortest chain that will fit in the chaincase with the sprockets I want. I also don't like walking ;) Breaking a chain in some of the areas I ride would require a LOT of it!!
 
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