High mileage '94 Indy XLT tripple blows oil - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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High mileage '94 Indy XLT tripple blows oil

I've got a 1994 Indy XLT with 5600 mi. on the engine. The compression is about 107psi on each cylinder, down from 128 three years ago. I am getting ready to rebuild the top end but one thing I want to understand first is it is almost impossible to start and when it does a lot of black oil is coming out the exhaust. When I remove the plugs they have a lot of oil on them so I assume that is the hard starting issue.

With a 4-stroke I would say the rings are going bad so oil is getting past them from the crank case, but is this true with a 2-stroke? All the oil comes in mixed with the fuel correct? Is this consistent with worn pistons / rings? I know it's due but I'd hate to get it all back together and realize there is another problem like the carbs or oil pump or something in the case. I just want it to start in one or two pulls again
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 12:08 AM
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Low compression wont burn properly. So it may not burn off the oil as well. I would replace the PTO bearings and case seals as well.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 12:18 AM
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High mileage '94 Indy XLT tripple blows oil

Yes it is consistent with a worn out engine.
You should make your rebuild plan to replace:
- pistons
- rings
- wrist pins
- wrist pin bearings
- PTO bearings
- Mag bearing
- Crank seals, mag amd pto
- light honing of the cylinder
- cylinder base gasket
- heads gasket
- cover gasket
- oil pump injector hoses


Hope that helps.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 06:48 AM
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NO high mileage is over 10k!
No need to go through the lower bearings! If so it's Junk!
With 5k put a set of pistons and seals, clean the carbs and run it!
There will always be oil in the exhaust, you are burning it!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice. I'm inclined to risk it on the bottom end since I probably should sell it in a year or two anyway and I wouldn't get much return on that investment.

So is there a kit with just top end stuff available somewhere? I looked on Polaris Nation and it lists the pistons at $144 each....
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 09:11 PM
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SPI makes a complete kit with pistons, rings, wrist pins seals, gaskets. I had a 94 XLT SKS model that had 7000 miles on it when I finally sold it 3 years ago. Compression was down to 110 lbs but its still running. That was the best sled that I have ever owned. 7000 miles, with no problems and nothing except oil, fuel, and a few belts. Put 3100 mountain miles on it the first year.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 06:33 AM
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I sell the OEM aftermarket and most pistons are in the $60 range.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 06:07 PM
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I had a 1997 Polaris xlt sp. Rebuit upper end using spi pistons and gasket set. Put 600 miles on it this year with no problems. Would use spi products again.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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So if I changed the crank seals and bearings I assume I am pulling the engine out and splitting the case open right? If i'm doing all that should I have the crank shaft turned? Does anything else need to be machined or do I just replace the seals, bearings, clean it up and put it back together?

Is there a way to tell if the seals are going bad? I'm still having trouble deciding how big a project I want to make out of this.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 08:30 PM
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Not a big deal.
All total about a 6 hr job!
I did the top end of my 95 Pantera in the back end of my Box truck in route to Lake Gogebic!
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 09:07 PM
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It is not that big a job. Just time. Wrt the bearings, referring to the out bearings only. Leave the crank otherwise untouched.

https://youtu.be/10Bl42GQnX4
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:54 PM
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I'd agree with KC on the bearings, probably no reason to mess with them. You will want to check all the bearings and make sure nothing's going out though – check for roughness or looseness (you'll feel just a little play, but don't worry about if they're consistent). Splitting the case isn't too big a deal, and you definitely want to replace the seals. It's not worth splitting the case when the bottom end and seals aren't in question, but on an old sled that's never been rebuilt, that's not the case. Regarding pistons, OEM are best if you can get them. Thing is, unless you intend to put a lot of miles on them, they're probably not worth the extra cost. Aftermarket pistons will last the rest of the sled's life in most cases.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 03:38 PM
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NONE of the Manuf actual make their own pistons!
OEM Style pistons are about all the same, they are OEM spec pistons.
Wiesco are Forged and are NOT OEM spec and use different tollorances!
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 05:53 PM
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That video covered opening up the oil holes in the crank. Some people say do them all, most people just say the PTO needs to be opened up. I opened up just the PTO side on my old 94.

So if you do split the crank, consider doing that mod.

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