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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-09-2005, 06:06 PM
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King Of The Lakes right there...
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-10-2005, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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....

sorrrry!!! i meant 2000$





Need to go FAAST!!

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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-10-2005, 05:05 PM
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Easiest way to make it go a LOT faster?

Disable the stupid throttle safety switch!!!

Yesterday it bogged... today it pulls the skis!

2004 Polaris Trail RMK 136
1997 Ski Doo Summit 500
2000 Arctic Cat ZL550 ESR (in NY)
2000 Arctic Cat 440 Panther (sold)
1980 Arctic Cat Jag 3000 F/C (in NY)

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and find out why!"
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-11-2005, 11:59 AM
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Talking make it faster

if you are looking for cheap and only 5-7hp, then i have a few items you can try that have worked for me. you may have to pay to have these done unless you have the skills & tools yourself

1) install a set of "extrovert"/toothed drive sprockets($35usd ea + installation)
2) install a pair of "hyperfax" hyfax(the plastic strips on you lower suspension $100-150usd pair)

while these are not engine parts, they will allow you to run the track much looser thereby requiring less hp to turn it and freeing up that hp to go faster(get the logic?)
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-11-2005, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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...

yeah imnot THAT stupid xD....
But wouldn't it be a easy way also to bore them cylidras xD??





Need to go FAAST!!

Yamaha SRX 600 -99
Polaris Indy Trail Supertrak 500 -86
San Remo Quad 250 -04
Renault 1000cc -71
Sunbuster R -91 + Yamaha 30 -99
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-11-2005, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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...

Can' I buy bigger carburators??
What do they do?





Need to go FAAST!!

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San Remo Quad 250 -04
Renault 1000cc -71
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-11-2005, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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....

can i make anu mods to the carburators so they go to higher RPM?





Need to go FAAST!!

Yamaha SRX 600 -99
Polaris Indy Trail Supertrak 500 -86
San Remo Quad 250 -04
Renault 1000cc -71
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009, 04:28 PM
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k my name is seth, these other people dont know two ****about snowmobiling. so dont pay any attention to that. i race my sled on a drag strip 1/2 mile. you wanna go faster? stick your a?? to the back of your sled and basically put your chin on the stearing bar. make sure you can see where you are going. slowly press the throttle down, when it gets to about 45-55 mph start bumping the throttle instead of holding it down.

the reason you cant go faster is because the wind is trying to pass by you but your body is in the way, so stick your butt on the back of your sled put your chin on the stearing bar, and slowly push the throttle down. if you slam it down, youll blow your engine. BE CAREFULL!!!!!!!

also watch out for various chips on the trail or the strip, because if you hit it, ur sled could whip. wich basically means ur dead. practice the propper sitting position, and if its your first time sled racing, or absolutely hauling, do not go more than 65mph, or you will get hurt.

Last edited by BC_Dan; 10-29-2009 at 05:06 PM. Reason: profanity
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009, 04:31 PM
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the good thing about this, is you dont have to buy anything, you dont have to install anything, you just sit and ride.
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009, 04:34 PM
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post #31 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-03-2009, 06:58 AM
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OK enough of the crap! On the 600 a set of pipes would really help! But you could just mod the pipes you have! Boring your cyl is an option but not cheap! Shaving your heads and doing some porting would be better! Bigger carbs alone wont help! A timing key might pick up alittle! Clutching is still the best for the money!
Clutching is fairly straight forward, start with adjusting your belt tension, you want the belt as tight as possible with out squeeling! Then add more weight to the clutch arms untill the motor wont pull top RPM! Then increase the primary clutch spring to get engagement rpm up and this will keep your peak up! If peak RPM drops you can increase rear spring a bit! After all this you can then possibly add 1 tooth to the top gear!
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post #32 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 05:13 PM
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You pin the handle bar til you go as fast as you want to go....lol...I can reply to post...I want to post a ? Help me
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post #33 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 07:13 PM
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Simply click the New Thread tab
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post #34 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 11:40 AM
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The posts on this have been a fun read! I will add a couple comments in the spirit of the intent of the OP question.
What OP question boils down to is how to get the best performance from the snowmobile. The answer to that is affected by quite a few variables. Number one being the terrain and the snow conditions. Going rip-zinging down a drag strip or across a wind swept lake is different than speed cruising across the fields and rolling hills which is again different from speeding around winding groomed trails and finally the steep and deep.
All that said, there are a couple things to do to ensure best possible performance out of the machine you have. Before you start, know the snow conditions that you are tuning for because the setup will differ.

Pre-requisites:
- use good oil and fresh fuel
- ensure the carbs are jetted and tuned, or EFI is mapped, for best possible fuel ratio and performance.

Adjustments:
- CLUTCHING. This is number one and by far where the most time is to be spent. The clutches must be clean, components in good condition, and operate smoothly with no binding. Adjust clutch weights and springs to achieve a steady peak full throttle RPM that is just shy of the peak HP rated RPM of the specific engine in target the snow conditions. Lots of test rides and iterative changes are involved
- final drive gearing. Again, depends on the target snow/terrain conditions. Sprockets can be changed in the chain case as well as the track drivers size. When gearing is changed, clutching adjustments have to be redone.
- Track alignment and tension. Misaligned or overtightened track robs HP and speed. Hifax needs to be in good condition as well as the bearings in all of the track rollers. Large diameter rear rollers really help to reduce track rolling resistance and drag.
- Suspension. Adjust track limiter strap and shock/spring tension to get the best weight balance pressure between the track and the skis. when adjusting balance point, the rider must be on the machine.
- Ski alignment. Ever so slight toe-in / toe-out, whichever your preference. For winding technical riding I like a smidge of toe-in, for high speed rip-roaring I like toe-out to reduce darting. Sharp low drag skags are important. Also ensure the proper size skis (width/length) as they can be a huge drag, or submarine, of the skis do not provide enough support for the weight and balance of the machine.

Modifications:
Get all of the above right and the sled will be doing everything it possibly can and should do, in terms of available performance. Further from that will not be anything that has direct effect on making the existing sled as-is any faster. The next stage of mods/adjustments would all be focused on adding power to the engine. The only way to add power with absolute certainty of results and reliability is to add displacement. That means install a bigger engine. Other than super charging (turbo), much of the add-on offerings provide marginal gains at high cost per HP and sharp drops in reliability. There are no better gains than replacement with more displacement.

Hope that helps! ... In some way.

PS: If you want to go fast in a straight line. .... Get yourself onto either of the Storm or MachZ triples. Wear grippy gloves, a good helmet with wind visor, and ensure you have gone to the toilet before the ride.

Last edited by FaceDeAce; 03-15-2019 at 12:40 PM.
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