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12-10-2012, 08:54 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 33
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Yay! Steering column snapped.
Went up to park city on Saturday and I was climbing a hill and this happened.
I was told that the engine needs to pulled. Yes? No? Can't be that difficult to do. I think me and a couple buddies can get it done on a Saturday.
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12-10-2012, 09:25 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 17,320
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Hard to tell from the pic, but you might be able to weld it back on?
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12-10-2012, 09:30 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: kenosha wi
Posts: 18
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stick a small pipe inside and weld it make sure the welder now how to weld
i had mine welded it lasted the life of the sled
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12-10-2012, 10:02 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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ouch. I'm betting that makes it hard to steer
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12-10-2012, 11:25 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Groton NY
Posts: 29,536
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Pull that plate off and then you can weld it up easily. as mentioned above, put a piece of rod inside it and weld that down first. That will reinforce that part.
__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid
'90 Wildcat Project in progress.
Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)
http://www.dcdrifters.net/
Senior Warden; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/
Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!
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12-10-2012, 12:10 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 33
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Who would weld next to a gas tank? That person might be hard to find.
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12-10-2012, 06:06 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 335
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is that a yamaha srx? Mine snapped too in the exact same place while while loading it into the back of a pickup. I had to pull the engine to replace it, wasnt too hard to do. . You can weld near the gas tank, they will lay some fire-proof cloth over it before welding. That sled blew up last year so I in fact have two if those steering stems. One is from a newer Viper and has beefy reinforcements where the plate connects to the stem, the other is a standard SRX one with low miles. Both are for sale on ebay right now but I'll cut u a nice deal if you want either one.
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12-10-2012, 06:52 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 33
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I already bought a brand new steering column, but I'm thinking I'm going to take it back and have someone weld it and reinforce it with another pipe. Just slide it in the existing broken column. Gotta be cheaper and it'll be a better fit/stronger.
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12-10-2012, 08:15 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 335
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Check out the viper stem, it already has a beefy reinforced stem at the top. here is the ebay item # 270706301106
I will give it to u for $30 shipped if u want it.
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12-10-2012, 08:38 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Repair Shop Owner
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Western Pa
Posts: 528
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If you have some one weld it take something that wont catch fire like fiber glass insulation and stuff it down the neck stem to stop hot slag and sparks from going down it. I have a friend that tried welding his steering column and burnt down the sled cause the sludge under the engine caught fire.
I was looking for the photo but cant find it.
__________________
01 Yamaha SXR 700
82 Polaris TXL340 (Oval racer)SOLD
80 Yamaha Exciter 440
79 Yamaha Exciter 440 (Oval Racer)
78 Artic Cat Pantera
72 Polaris Colt 295 ss F/A
Country Road Cycles
Motorcycle-Atv-Snowmobile Repair.
http://westernpasnowmobiler.com/foru...fad3dfa1b281c2
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12-11-2012, 07:29 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,473
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if you do any welding on the sled, remove the cdi box!
as for the fix, if you do install a pipe inside, be sure and drill the stock column for a couple of spot welds between the column and the insert. some strategically located triangular gussets add strength.
be sure you get it on straight and flat.
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12-11-2012, 10:12 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 33
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Decided that I'm going to replace the steering column. Welding it and reinforcing it would be more expensive than replacing the column itself. Will be tackling that this Saturday and will be taking pics. Also will be putting rail extensions and a new track on. I figure it's as good of time as any to just do it all. Hope to be done before Sunday.
Yamadad, may be asking for some help haha. Hopefully it goes smoothly.
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12-12-2012, 07:29 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,473
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however you plan to access the lower portion of the steering stem, keep in mind that anytime you unbolt the motor mounts and rock the engine in any way you need to consider your clutch alignment and center to center. doesnt take more than a fraction of an inch to ruin your performance.
think wet/dry shop vac and panty hose if you crack the coolant hoses open.
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12-12-2012, 07:53 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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TRH- Troll Raising Hell
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Medina, MN
Posts: 6,006
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What sled is this on?
__________________
Snow: The other white drug!
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12-16-2012, 12:39 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 33
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Holyyyy......CRAP! Replacing a steering column is no fun on this model. Took about 7 hours to do, but it's in. Everything worked out perfectly. Runs great, but idle is a little high. Luckily I know where the idler is now  . Started working on rail extensions and a longer track after that. Wish I would have saved that for another day. I got about halfway done. Have the cog drivers back in and the new track, but need to install rail extensions and put the skid back in. Will be ripping Tuesday hopefully! Here are a couple pictures from the removal and replacement of the column.

Sorry, they might be sideways.
Just happy that steering column is done. Weather is looking good. 4 day storm here I come!
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12-16-2012, 01:19 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,937
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They sure don't make it easy, do they! Nice work
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12-16-2012, 01:08 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,473
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make sure you used loctite(blue) on all the fasteners for the bulkhead along with the torque limiter.
what took you so long? ha
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12-16-2012, 02:03 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 33
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Uh oh! Yamadad has jokes! Hahaha. Took me a long time cause we didnt have a hoist or a clutch alignment tool. Also ran into this if you guys can tell what happened. Bearing on lower chain case is bad. Here's a pic.

Can't do anything until tomorrow because everyone is closed on Sunday's in Utah. Should be ready to ride tuesday though.
And I used loctite(blue) on all bolts I could.
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12-16-2012, 06:11 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,473
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if you had help, you had a hoist. one on the mag side, one on the clutch side and walk it out the front. alignment tools to help. glad to hear on the loctite. i do have a sense of humor albeit most times dry!
i would guess at one time something passed around inside the chaincase, the seal may have failed on the backside, or worn out from lack of maintenance and neglect prior to you getting it.
roll the driveshaft on a flat surface to rule out and deviation and check the clutch side bearing as well. look at your gears and the chain closely.
hope you have a good dealer in your area that actually stocks parts. most dont and its a waiting game. pay attention and note the orientation of the bearing as well as the seal behind it so you wont be asking in a day or two which way to put it in.
those are a pain and a bearing installer along with a press will ease the job. sometimes in the wrong hands its easy to damage the new parts. if you have a good shop, its worth some extra $$$ to have it done correctly. most under $20 for peace of mind.
good luck. hows the rest of the conversion coming?
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