jlc84cam350

well i put it back together and tried her out again, i think it actually ran on all 3 for like 15-30secs at the first.

For the time it did run she was letting off pretty bad back fires and pops, it eventually stopped and so did the cylinder again, i tried getting it working again and it wouldn't work at all.

when i reinstalled the screw the correct way, i noticed the screw seems to sit litle lower than the others, could that oring be no good?

yamadad4

there could be o ring damage and that would let it suck air or fuel. the backfiring could be the excess fuel you noticed trying to burn off. you could now have a possible fouled plug?

were all the fuel adjustment screw oriented this way or just the cylinder in question? could be why one of the screws was set differently from the others?

jlc84cam350

the other 2 were fine this was the only one that was not set up right,

Like i said i think their is something off because it does sit a litler lower, and i can see the other 2 the position of the screw are at the exact same spots and this one isnt angled the same.

Anyways i am not working tomorrow i will go get a new set of plugs, and take off that screw again, could i get that oring from yamaha dealer or?

should i get br8's or br9's i am curently running br8's

yamadad4

you should be running br9's. the 8's are too hot.

if your lucky, you may find an oring in stock but if yours isnt deformed in any way, it still may be usable. your looking for part # 3H1-14147-00-00, i think.

jlc84cam350

i brought the screw to the yamaha dealer and the mechanic said it should be in good working order the oring is in good condition,

I tried running that machine with different adjustments on the screw, nothing works...

It will not run at all

I took the manifold off had a look with a mirror and light i can see very well but i still can't see anything wrong

Starting to think it maybe crank seals that are gone

luv455

Try pulling the plugs a with a brite lite look in the cyl. with the piston all the way down and at the exh. side if you see some scoring to bad scoring it is time for a new piston/barrel asy.

jlc84cam350

all cylinders seem very similar i dont see any deep scratches or bad wear. I am going to have to remove the cylinder im pretty sure

yamadad4

wont run at all or just the one cylinder?

crank seals are easy to test on the clutch side, sketchy on the mag side. get some ether based starting fluid or carb spray and spray away at the seals with the engine running.

jlc84cam350

just the one cylinder on the clutch side.

yamadad4

your almost to the point if digging deeper, if your not overlooking something along the way.

since you have had a view of the intake side, i would remove the exhaust system and have another look. either way it has to come off to pull that cylinder.

before opting for a cylinder removal, there are a few tricks you can do to save yourself some time and money. speaking of accounting for the coolant as you dont want it to enter the bottom end.

i would still second guess based upon the comp numbers, but i have seen some stranger things happen.

jlc84cam350

well i still havent figured out my problem yet i put the sled aside for the last 2 months and started againe frigging around with it and found something out today that might help you guys help me lol...

I'm starting to think its a float problem, i tried unplugging the fuel line to the bad cylinder and pluged it up with a screw driver and fired her up, and what do you know after running about 30-40 seconds it fires up and runs excellent!!!! like a champ on all 3

I tried messing with the float height but it doesn't seem to change anything, what should i be looking for now that i found this??

RJ Gleason

Stuck choke will do that too.

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yamadad4

if you plugged the fuel supply line to the carb of the cylinder in question, there would be no fire in that cylinder. you need fuel to run. perhaps i didnt fully comprehend events there.

what year is the sled? you may be experiencing blockage of the filters in the carbs or an issue with the needle and seat.

jlc84cam350

Well i think it has to do with that plunger thingy and the brass piese that it hookek up to the float, i swaped em out with the center cylinder, it runs excellent now' the brass piece does not seem to want to stay tight on the pto side tho, i think their is something wrong with the carb body because no mater wich one i use on that side it will not sit tight with the screw, i fabed up a washer so it would tighten it up more and for now she is running like a bat outa hell"
! Never had it run this good yet lol

yamadad4

interesting discovery. so the stock phillips head screw with the small flat washer wouldnt hold it in place?

there are o-rings around the outside of the seat(i believe thats what you referred to as a brass piece). should fit fairly snug when you put it into the carb body. maybe the screw or the hole has damaged threads?

nice mcgyver fix. glad your finally enjoying your sleds potential. i would run it until the snows gone then open up the carbs again in the off season.

jlc84cam350

well from what i can see the seat seems to be sitting lower than the others, not by alot but just enough so the washer wont put pressure on it,

I am going to enjoy it a bit for a few rides and will try to get another carb set this summer and rebuild the top end, were pretty much aproaching the end of the season and we have not had a very nice snowmobiling winter at all out here so i havent had trouble dealing with my sled not working lol, besides i havent even baught a trail pass or registered the plate this year, will be ready next year for sure! anyways thanks for the help guys.

yamadad4

heated carbs or not? could be the high hat filter under the seat is gone if you have heated carbs.

let me know when your ready for a replacement set. i have a few sets of both heated and non heated i could make you a fair deal on.