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Old 11-08-2012, 03:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ring end gap

When rebuilding a top end how critical is it to ring end gap ? I know alot of people don't do this ? What is the outcome if its not done ?


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Old 11-08-2012, 03:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If the gap is too wide, you get a lot of blow by and loss in performance. If it is too narrow, the rings will bind when they expand as they get hot and seize the engine. It's important and should be checked every time you put in new rings. It's easy to check, just put the ring in the cylinder and use the piston (without ring) to push it flat into the cylinder. Measure. File as necessary.
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Don't understand how you described that , ok so ring into cylinder and push it ?


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Old 11-08-2012, 04:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes. Squeeze the ring together slightly and put it into the cylinder. Use the ringless piston to push the ring into the cylinder so that it is square to the cylinder. Measure the gap with a feeler gauge.
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What's the purpose of measuring do they need to be at a certain measurement ?


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Old 11-08-2012, 06:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yes, there is a spec, and it must be at spec if you want your engine to last.

its a real basic procedure. fit the ring into the top of the cylinder, turn your piston upside down and push the ring down into the cylinder at least 3/4".

this does two things: sets the ring even in the cylinder and gets it real close to where it would top out when installed later.

in your manual, if it has the info, there is a spec to be measured with a feeler gauge. you need to meet this spec for the reasons bc mentioned earlier.

not a good time or place for shortcuts. if it makes you feel better, when using oem parts rarely do you need to file the ring end. seems more prevalent with the aftermarket parts like spi and wiseco. this all if the cylinders are within spec.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok so I've put ring in and see the gap but need to get a feeler gauage to check out. I used 2 of the old rings which were stock from and one of the new rings and by eye I see a bit of difference very minimal. The book shows end gap installed is 0.35-0.55mm that sound right ?


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Old 11-08-2012, 09:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This manual is useless on another page it's saying 0.45-0.60 for top and 2nd this is for the 500 and 600 so maybe I'm thinking this is for twin ? I don't think they made a 500 triple did they ?


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Old 11-08-2012, 10:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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2001 sxr 600 piston - YouTube
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Does anyone have the specific ring end gap for this sled ? my book is giving me a few different options here and not sure why. Also why is there such a range from .45-.60 within that is good or should it be more on the lower side or higher side ?


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Old 11-09-2012, 02:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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you need to take some time and learn how to use the manual that you bought from midwest manuals. guidance and advise isnt something you will get from those guys, but hey, you saved a few bucks.

in previous conversations, i have asked exactly what manual you are referencing. i believe i even mentioned where to find the number. its in there, you just need to browse it more thoroughly.

just taking a guess, but i believe your referencing lit#12618-SM-00. you may also have the supplement #8CT-28197-11. this supplement basically covers items that may be specific to your machine and year. most of the main manual covers several different models with illustrations particular to your machine, if necessary, as alot of the info for clutch, suspension and misc is the same as other models for several years.

your confusion is coming from the references to the 500 and 600 models prior to 2000. in 2000, the 600 became a triple. its simple to look at the illustrations and see that they are referencing a twin cylinder engine, usually followed by an illustration for the 700 triple.

if you recall from some of our past conversations, i mentioned that the 600 is an identical engine to the 700, just a smaller bore. with this concept in mind, most anything in your manual pertaining to the triple 700 engine applies to your 600 triple, with the exceptions of clutching, gearing, high altitude tuning, and carb tuning.

to answer your question, the ring gap is .35mm-.55mm. i would be more than happy to familiarize you with your manual so that you can get more enjoyment from it. the info is in there, you just need to filter it.
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks yamada ill try to find what the number is for manual if u have the same one please let me know chapter 5 page 9 shows end Gap to be same as the 500 ?


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Old 11-09-2012, 04:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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this is what i was trying to explain. go back up to 5-3. clearly thats the 500 and 600 TWIN.
next is 5-4, theres your triple. now look at 5-5. what your trying to do apparently is use the specs for the twin. they dont apply to your engine.

at the very opening of your manual it should show as a supplement. if you read through that, you will see it shows the 600 and the 700 in triple configuration and you will also find that all that pertains to the 700 triple applies to the 600 TRIPLE, for the most part.

now on 5-9, look at the chart. theres your spec in the 700 column. by simple deducement reading the previous pages, clearly those numbers in the 500 and 600 columns dont apply to your engine. i did advise you yours was the same as the 700.

you need to remember these manuals were supplied for trained yamaha technicians based on the assumption they already had general knowledge of the machines, not really intended for the inexperienced. by reading and studying them theres alot of valuable information that can help the do it yourself types.

once you get your feeler gauge you may be surprised at how little .35mm is.
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ok I get what you are saying . I confirmed also on page 66 in spec section that mine is same as 700 to be .35-.55 . So now the question is what do I set it as more on the .35 side or .55 , now this is also for oem rings an pistons . Would this be the same for spi pistons and rings ? My mechanic a very well known experienced sled, bike atv mechanic said I should be around the .13 mm mark with these spi pistons and rings?

The higher the gap , harder to start lower compression and better for full throttle lake runs ? And the opposite for lower ? This is what I've heard ?


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Old 11-11-2012, 07:25 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i was unaware the gap made that much difference. interesting concept. always thought of it as more of a tolerance and if it measured between the spec numbers you were good to go.

i could possibly see a tighter tolerance coming to play on altered engines but probably hardly noticable on a stock engine.

having never used spi products, i would contact them directly. i am sure they would have a tech line.

wiseco has always had their own specifications on there products, would expect the same from spi.

trust your mechanic. he sounds knowledgable.
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