Yamifan66

Hey all new here so bear with me. Picked up an exciter dirt cheap needed a carb cleaning bad for it sat for many years. I cleaned them spotless and reinstalled, sled starts up perfect but acts as if it's full throttle. I think I might have made the small jets on the engine size too big. I think the pilot jets? I pushed a needle through them rookie mistake I know. Would this cause too much gas to be dumping in and make the sled take right off? Throttle and choke are not stuck. Any help much appreciated

Rczr600rider

Sounds like either the slide in one or both carbs is installed incorrectly and will not close or you are drawing air into the engine somewhere. It's not likely you damaged a jet with a needle, and even if you did it wouldn't cause the problem you describe.

Yamifan66

Ok thatsgood to know. How could they be installed incorrectly there's really only one way the slides will go in I believe. You have to line up the slots for it to drop down in. If you know something I don't please share

Rczr600rider

If the needle in the slide is not lined up with the jet the slide will not drop all the way in.

Yamifan66

I couldn't see if the needle went in but I'm 99% sure they did. I set the slide in and spun them around until they dropped another inch or so into the carb. Pretty sure that means they are in. And the throttle works fine I hear the needles move up and down.

Yamifan66

Also adjusting both idle screws in or out does absolutely nothing

Rczr600rider

They should travel more than an inch. If you have a mirror you could pull the boots between the carbs and the airbox to check if they close fully. I always assemble them and check for operation before installing them. It's a little harder to fish them down in there with the cables attached, but I know they're working right that way, and I can synchronize them while I'm at it. If that's not the problem, check the mounting flanges for cracks that could let air in.

Yamifan66

Ok will do in the morning. I'm wondering if the throttle cables are too tight causing them not to close all the way? I'm not familiar with slide carbs. Thanks for the advice much appreciated

kccats

What I did with mine is, I cut that piece of hood that doesn't move! If you cut along the edge on top from each side to the center, then pop rivit a small Angle, so that the side panel bolts will hold it back in place! Now the carbs can come right out and air box too!

Yamifan66

I've heard a few people that have done that. I havnt had to yet I was able to get them out with a little finagling. Havnt got to check them out yet today they're at a different residence. Sounds to me like it's gotta be a problem with the slides or needles.

yamadad4

one or both are not in the right position causing your throttle hang. sometimes they feel like they drop right but arent. a trick that i have used in the past is to back the idle screw out almost all they way to insure the small projection on the carb body allows the slide to fully drop. should make sense when you see it.

Yamifan66

you guys were absoluetly right one of my sides i did not have dropped all the way in. Now the sled will not idle, i have to keep on the gas and keep it above 35-4000 rpms for it to keep running or else it will bog down and die and is hard to start back up. The two wires on my left side carb (i beleive the tors) broke off was wondering if that would have anything to do with it? if not anymore ideas to help this thing idle? i tried messing with the idle screws some how far should they be screwed out? Thank you all for the help so far

yamadad4

idle adjustment screws should be turned in, clockwise, to raise the rpms. that big slot on the slides you were just correcting is where the idle screw rides. by turning in, it actually raises the slide.

the tors wires wont affect the idle, but it will affect the higher rpms. almost sounds like you missed something in the carbs or your choke plungers.

Yamifan66

well i got it to idle at 4k below that it just bogs out. then its near impossible to start again. is it possible a dirty fuel pump could cause this?

yamadad4

theres a remote possibility, i would look towards the pilot jets first. just for fun, when you have it running, pull the choke lever and see what happens.

i would look at the pulse line, the pilots, the choke plungers, needles and seat, and the air screws(5/8 turn out from lightly seated?) before i thought of the fuel pump.

Yamifan66

Ok will do now where are the air screws I'm not sure where they are. While running if I hit the choke I can tell it gets way to much gas, overflow lines on the carbs start dripping. I was wondering about the fuel pump because I have to start it with a shot of pre mixed in the cylinder everytime.

Yamifan66

Just remembered I removed air screws when cleaning the carbs and I tightened them all the way shut that could have something to do with it. I'll let you know when I go for another try.

Rczr600rider

That would definitely make a difference.

yamadad4

the fact your carbs are flooding out the overflows when the choke is applied makes me wonder if your needle is sealing to the seat.

this can also cause a hard start condition as the fuel is leaving the bowls and takes several pulls on the rope to refill. you may also be flooding the cylinders when the needle valves leak.

yours should be a 2 into 1 cable for the choke plungers and i have seen alot of times only one is activating again creating a hard to start situation. just some food for thought.

Yamifan66

I'm leaving soon to go another round with it. Idt its flooding because it will start with a shot of gas in each cylinder. I'm second guessing I screwed in the air screws now because I remember looking and not seeing them on the carbs. Are they in a hard to notice place? Thanks for the info I'll double check everything while I'm there