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post #81 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well I went to the local dealer and chatted with one of the mechanics and he said I should try jetting down a little. So I got some 140 mains and tried it with the air box on and it was a very big improvement to what it used to be with the air box on.

I was able to run the sled a little bit and it wouldn't run very well past 4 or 5 thousand RPM. It ran really well under that though, just about as good before I rejetted when I had the air box off. So I fixed the low end, but the top end is pretty bad. I checked the plugs and they were kind of wet. My guess is that I could try to jet it down again, maybe going to 138's. With my limited knowledge, I think this is the best option, but maybe you guys know better.

1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
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post #82 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:59 PM
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you may be heading in the right direction or heading for disaster. be sure and keep an eye on your plugs. you will need to see where they are at at full throttle, half throttle as well as quarter throttle doing runs at each throttle position for a minimum of 600' if not 1000'.

stock jetting for en elevation of 300'-2000' used 143.8 main jets. good for temps from -4*F-+50*F. by decreasing the jet size, you are leaning out the sled, or providing it with less fuel. fuel cools the cylinders and pistons. less fuel = more heat.

keep in mind that as elevation rises, less fuel is required. that is why smaller mains are used at higher elevations. its an air density thing and there is plenty of info out there pertaining to the subject.

play with it while monitoring what is going on and be careful.
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post #83 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 06:01 AM
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Better to leave it a bit rich at this point too, because you need to jet for the temps it will be run in.
Get it perfect now in the warmer temps and you will have to do it all over when it gets cold.

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post #84 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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It sounds like I shouldn't change anything till snow is here, I will try running the sled again tonight because it's supposed to be in the low 20's so that'll be closer to normal riding conditions. Are the spark plugs the only way to monitor the richness? Is that the best way to do it?

1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
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post #85 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 08:53 PM
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Look at the tip color, should be a dark to medium tan when checked at operating temp for a specific throttle range.
You do "plug chops" [run at say half throttle for a min. and then kill the engine without letting go of the throttle] then pull plugs and see how they look. You can also look into the cylinder and see the piston wash on top [should be about the size of a quarter that is clear just off center toward the exhaust port].
You do these at idle, half, and full throttle.
Idle for pilot jet. half for the slide needle, and full for the main jet.

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post #86 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Well I only tested full throttle and with that the one cylinder was perfectly colored and the other was slightly rich, so I don't think I'll mess with the mains anymore till snow is falling. The sled ran really well, much better than when it was 40 degrees. I think I may be done messing with the carbs until snow is flying! I'll check the plugs at idle and at mid-throttle but I feel pretty good about how it is running right now.

Thanks everyone for all the help getting this thing back into riding condition. I truly appreciate all the advice and all of your patience!

Next on the agenda: bushings on the front suspension...

1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
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post #87 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willdeh2 View Post
Well I only tested full throttle and with that the one cylinder was perfectly colored and the other was slightly rich, so I don't think I'll mess with the mains anymore till snow is falling. The sled ran really well, much better than when it was 40 degrees. I think I may be done messing with the carbs until snow is flying! I'll check the plugs at idle and at mid-throttle but I feel pretty good about how it is running right now.

Thanks everyone for all the help getting this thing back into riding condition. I truly appreciate all the advice and all of your patience!

Next on the agenda: bushings on the front suspension...
Let me know


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post #88 of 89 (permalink) Old 02-04-2013, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Time for an update.

We got a decent amount of snow last week and I had time to ride the Phazer around a decent amount. It's actually a blast to ride that little guy, much more fun than my "big" ZR, it's just so light! Anyway, I rode it probably 40-50 miles, it had a little bog in the mid-range but top end was really good.

One day I was riding and all of a sudden I lost all power. I let it sit a little bit, looked at all the obvious stuff and gave her one pull and she started right back up. I went another 1/4 mile and then it died again. This time I pulled lightly on the cord and it didn't want to turn over, so I figured there was a chance I blew it up. Wisely, I towed it back to the shop and sure enough I had 60lbs in the one cylinder, and 110lbs in the other. I pulled the head off and the cylinder wall was bone dry, and slightly scuffed from the piston.

I assume I wasn't getting enough oil? The plugs looked decent enough, dark brown for one and light brown for the other. I never really looked into the oil adjustment when I put it back together and I completely forgot to look into it the days I finally got to ride. It definitely used some oil, but as far as I can tell it wasn't enough.

It's sad to see the little guy dead, but at least it was my backup! Does it sound like my problem was lack of oil?

1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
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post #89 of 89 (permalink) Old 02-04-2013, 06:11 PM
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first thing i would check would be the nipple on the manifold where the line from the oil pump connects. i have seen these plug and not feed the cylinder oil. sounds like the other side was lubricating.
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