Phazer Carb Problems - Page 2 - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
http://www.snowmobileforum.com
Go Back   Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum > Specific Snowmobile Forums > Yamaha Snowmobiles


» Sponsors





Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-14-2012, 02:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
Registered User
 
willdeh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa City
Posts: 157
I'll have to look into that bracket when it's running well and all. My friends should be able to help me out in the machining department, thanks for the offer.

I'll pick up another pilot screw from the dealer tomorrow for the one that's busted off, hopefully the one in there might have been adjusted improperly and this new one will fix that.

I tried tweaking some stuff yesterday, I got it to idle a little bit after adjusting the freeplay in the throttle, but it kept revving higher and higher up to almost 3000 rpm so I shut her down and tried tweaking some more, after that I couldn't hardly get it to run at all. I tried adjusting the air screw because I thought it was getting flooded. I still had no luck so I finally adjusted everything (idle stop screw, freeplay, pilot screw) to how I had it when it was running on Friday but it still won't start. What now? I had gas in the tank, but maybe it wasn't enough? I'll add another gallon next time I work on it. Other than that I'm stuck again.
__________________
1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
willdeh2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-15-2012, 07:21 PM   #22 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,986
add more fuel, those tanks are funny when they are low on fuel.

as mentioned before, the cable setting and the idle screw work against each other and there is a happy medium in there at some point. have you messed with the screw between the carbs? thats your sync adjuster.

i would start loosening the throttle cable all the way. turn the adjuster and the nut until its bottoms on the carb bracket. then back up the idle screw until it loses contact with the switch. this would basically be a neutral position. from this point, adjust the cable adjuster outward(counter clockwise) until you have about 1/8" of freeplay on your thumb lever before it pulls the cable. with the airbox removed, pull full throttle and make sure the butterflies are full horizontal. if the right carb is below horizontal,(higher on the airbox side than the engine side) you need to tighten the cable a bit more. what your trying to achieve is full horizontal on this carb when the flipper is pressed to the bars along with that aforementioned 1/8" freeplay in the cable.

once you have achieved this setting, look at the butterfly in the left carb(clutch side). if its not at horizontal with the flipper to the bar, adjust the screw between the carbs until it matches the right side carb. once you have this set, go ahead and turn the idle screw in until it makes contact with the switch and then give it 1 1/2 to 2 turns in and refire the sled.

best way to see if your drawing fuel from the tank or not is to prime a cylinder with mixed gas if it doesnt light before 10 pulls.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 08:57 AM   #23 (permalink)
Registered User
 
willdeh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa City
Posts: 157
Okay well I was able to get it idling just fine, I put another gallon in it and messed around with the throttle freeplay. The idle screw still doesn't do anything, I should be able to adjust the RPM with that screw while it's idling, right? So I don't think that's perfect but it does idle around 1500 RPM, so at least I've got that.

How important is it to sync the carbs? I assume it is the only way to really get the most out of the engine, but it seems like a pain, but then again what's the point of having the sled if I'm not going to get all the power it's got. So maybe I'll look into that, how do you take the air box off? I looked at it the other day and I haven't a clue where the bolts are to remove it.

We had weather down in the 40's and I thought it wouldn't hurt to run the sled out in a field for a few minutes, it ran fine, but it's not very powerful and wouldn't rev past 5000 RPM, and I noticed that one of the cylinders is MUCH hotter than the other, does that mean the one is running lean? Or perhaps the other rich? I did order the air adjustment screw from the dealer so I will be able to adjust that soon, but what are your thoughts on the lack of power?

Thanks again Yamadad.
__________________
1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
willdeh2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 09:56 AM   #24 (permalink)
Super Moderator
 
RJ Gleason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Groton NY
Posts: 31,858
Compare the plugs, that will tell you the story.
The hotter cylinder will be either tan or gray.
The other will more likely be black.

This is where synching the carbs will help.
__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Worshipful Master; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!
RJ Gleason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 11:18 AM   #25 (permalink)
'93 Phazer and The Kid
 
Phaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NW WI
Posts: 1,018
You asked how important it is to sync the carbs? Very important. For one, it wont run right if they're not, and secondly, I believe you could also burn down a cylinder......
__________________
'05 Yamaha RX1 ER 1000
'93 Yamaha Phazer II LE 485
'96 Polaris Ultra SP 700 - SOLD!!

2013/2014 miles: 290
2012/2013 miles: 654
2011/2012 miles: 737
The sled is fixed... Now my wallet is broke..

Phaze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 04:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: southwest ohio
Posts: 365
I have found that removing the secondary clutch is the easiest way to get the air box out. That only involves removing the belt and locking the brake and removing the bolt going into the end of the secondary. There are 2 bolts on the top of the air box that you access just above the fuel door. They have a little plastic piece that snaps into the plastic. Remove that plastic cover and you will see the 2 bolts. Those are the only bolts that hold the air box in along with the carb boot clamps. There may be an easier way to do it but that is the best way i've found. You can also remove the end of the air box where the air goes into the box, that will help you get it around the steering shaft. It is still a pain in the bass to get it out though. Just be patient, it isn't as bad as it seems.
1on3off is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 06:26 PM   #27 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,986
you guys are doing a great job! keep up the good work.

idle adjustment screw issue needs to be addressed. somethings hiding in there or not right.

synchronizing those carbs is a must, period. as for you heat differences, unless its extreme, dont forget the mag side is closer to the fan than the clutch side.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 06:40 PM   #28 (permalink)
Registered User
 
willdeh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa City
Posts: 157
Alright I am working on the sled now, I tried to go the secondary removal route, but that thing is on there tight! So I removed the two bolts up by the handlebars and I'm trying to get it out, but it's packed in there nice and cozy. Before I get it out, do I need to figure out the idle screw problem or is it okay to sync them first?
__________________
1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
willdeh2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 06:44 PM   #29 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: southwest ohio
Posts: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by willdeh2 View Post
Alright I am working on the sled now, I tried to go the secondary removal route, but that thing is on there tight! So I removed the two bolts up by the handlebars and I'm trying to get it out, but it's packed in there nice and cozy. Before I get it out, do I need to figure out the idle screw problem or is it okay to sync them first?
The secondary will be tight but it will make it a lot easier if you get it off. The air box will come out and you will be able to see the buttlerfys to tell if they are synced or not. I think you can sync them before you deal with the idle screw problem.
1on3off is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 06:49 PM   #30 (permalink)
'93 Phazer and The Kid
 
Phaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NW WI
Posts: 1,018
Do you have an impact wrench? That would probably loosen it..... Bolt is probably corroded.
__________________
'05 Yamaha RX1 ER 1000
'93 Yamaha Phazer II LE 485
'96 Polaris Ultra SP 700 - SOLD!!

2013/2014 miles: 290
2012/2013 miles: 654
2011/2012 miles: 737
The sled is fixed... Now my wallet is broke..

Phaze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 06:50 PM   #31 (permalink)
Registered User
 
willdeh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa City
Posts: 157
Thanks for the reassurance... Any tricks getting that secondary out? I got the belt off and the brake set but it still slipped so I had a friend sit on the sled and hold the brake while I beat the wrench with a hammer, still slipping. It's not one of those lefty-tighty, righty-loosey situations is it?
__________________
1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
willdeh2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 06:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,986
what your checking and possibly adjusting is basically getting them close. sychronizing them is a bit more involved to make it precise, just trying to get you close for now.

is the secondary stuck or is the bolt stuck? seems like the airbox likes to come out that side. if you have been removing and installing the carbs with the airbox on with success, you can check these adjustment with the carbs up and away from the airbox. you just need a visual of the butterflies. since your close on the other adjustments, make a note of the settings if you need to remove anything else, ie; cables and such.

eventually your going to need to remove that secondary.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 06:55 PM   #33 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: southwest ohio
Posts: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by willdeh2 View Post
Thanks for the reassurance... Any tricks getting that secondary out? I got the belt off and the brake set but it still slipped so I had a friend sit on the sled and hold the brake while I beat the wrench with a hammer, still slipping. It's not one of those lefty-tighty, righty-loosey situations is it?
i had to lock a pair of vise grips on the jackshaft to get mine the first time. Use a breaker bar to get some leverage. It is righty tighty, lefty loosey.
1on3off is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 06:59 PM   #34 (permalink)
'93 Phazer and The Kid
 
Phaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NW WI
Posts: 1,018
Then if you put a short pipe over that breaker bar, you'll really get some leverage. When you get it out, clean it up on a wire wheel. You may want to add a dab of anti seize on the threads before you put the secondary back on....
__________________
'05 Yamaha RX1 ER 1000
'93 Yamaha Phazer II LE 485
'96 Polaris Ultra SP 700 - SOLD!!

2013/2014 miles: 290
2012/2013 miles: 654
2011/2012 miles: 737
The sled is fixed... Now my wallet is broke..

Phaze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 07:07 PM   #35 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: southwest ohio
Posts: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by willdeh2 View Post
Thanks for the reassurance... Any tricks getting that secondary out? I got the belt off and the brake set but it still slipped so I had a friend sit on the sled and hold the brake while I beat the wrench with a hammer, still slipping. It's not one of those lefty-tighty, righty-loosey situations is it?
A good ice cold beer helped mine come off a little easier. Just saying
1on3off is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 07:24 PM   #36 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,986
i would have drank that beer not waste it on the clutch! that there would be alcohol abuse. depends on the beer i guess.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 08:18 PM   #37 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: southwest ohio
Posts: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by yamadad4 View Post
i would have drank that beer not waste it on the clutch! that there would be alcohol abuse. depends on the beer i guess.
Kudos to that
1on3off is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 09:25 PM   #38 (permalink)
Registered User
 
willdeh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa City
Posts: 157
Haha, no beers unfortunately, but maybe that's why I still don't have the thing apart... I got sick of working on it so I will resume my battle tomorrow.

When I would really crank on her the track would just slowly slip, I think that visegrip trick might do the job, I sure hope so.

Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried to use a couple of mirrors to look into the carbs? I think it would work, but I'm not sure if I have any mirrors the right size to fit in there between the air box and the carbs.
__________________
1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
willdeh2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 04:30 AM   #39 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: southwest ohio
Posts: 365
Mirrors might work but I can't see you having enough room without getting the air box out. If you put some vise grips on the shaft real tight and let them rest against the chassis it shouldn't slip. Spray some PB or something like that on it and let it soak for the day.
1on3off is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 09:55 AM   #40 (permalink)
Registered User
 
willdeh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa City
Posts: 157
Ya I'll spray some of that on before I head off for school. Also the steering is really really sloppy, while I have the airbox off should I be trying to mend some of the problems? I really don't know where the slop is or how to fix it, but I thought I should ask so I don't have to fight this airbox again...
__________________
1998 ZR 600 136" track
1989 Phazer (in pieces)
willdeh2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:17 AM.



Copyright SnowmobileForum.com

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0