1992 Phazer II - please help - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

Lefty506 · 12-27-2011, 02:13 PM

Hi Everybody,

Picked up a 92 Phazer II, elec start the other day. Havent had a chance to really take it out, no snow yet. I have a couple questions, hopefully someone can help me out.

1

I cant find the choke or primer?? There are choke cables but I cant find the switch to use it. So it is taking awhile to start. Does it have a choke or a primer?

2

How do I shut off the fuel? Cant find shut off valve or switch.

3

It is fouling the right (if seated) spark plug and the left is soaked. This is a pic of a brand new plug after about a mile around the yard. What would do this and what is the remedy?

Thanks so much the kids are going to love it!

4

When I bought it the starter recoil was broke from the handle and wound inside the recoil. I pulled it apart and reclaimed the cord. I could not find a clear path from the recoil housing where the cord comes out to the guide/stop loop near the pull handle. Here is the path I chose based the smooth surface of the bracket that the cord is rubbing against. Is there a proper/better path to take or is this correct?

Lefty506 · 12-27-2011, 02:21 PM

I was cleaning the carb (first time Ive attempted this). I noticed the secondary (choke?) jets are not to be found. Im pretty lost at this point. What all should be cleaned on this carb?

Thanks again!

yamadad4 · 12-27-2011, 07:02 PM

the lever for the choke(enrichener)should be to the left of the key switch between it and the lid for the fuel. its labeled "starter"
there is no fuel shutoff.
carbs probably need cleaned, see your on that. you will find the main jet attached to the 17mm bowl drain plug, the pilot will be under the rubber plug located on the left with the carb upside down and the float pin facing you. you also need to remove the air screw on the top after counting the number of turns out.
your pull rope routing appears incorrect, there should be a pully of sorts located between the brake rotor and the oil tank that the rope should go over, and then a coil (loop) on the steering hoop just under the cowl near where the handle exits it needs to thread through.

for your carb cleaning, remove the choke plungers, the air screw, the pilot jet, both rubber plugs, the floats and the needle and seat. all these passages should be unobstructed and freely flow either compressed air or aerosol carb cleaner. more than likely your plug fouling is occuring from the lack of set choke plungers.

Lefty506 · 12-28-2011, 07:07 AM

Thank you very much yamadad4, I really appreciate you responding.

I thought that little lever was an emergency kill switch that you attach your coat or pants to in case you fall off, the sled will stop, like a jetski/seadoo. Mine has a little ring/clasp that led me to beleive this... Thanks for clarifiying this.

So the rubber caps are the choke/pilot jets? How is it properly set? They dont have grooves for a flathead screwdriver. So I remove the rubber caps and clean the jets with air and carb cleaner.

I will try to find a guide pully for the starter cord, I thought of that but then couldnt find a mounting location or where one wouldve been mounted... oh well its elec start anyway.

yamadad4 · 12-28-2011, 07:34 AM

look a little closer under the left rubber plug. the pilot jet is under there and it is slotted for removal. needs to come out for a proper cleaning. pay attention to the rubber plug orientation.

look at where your brake caliper bolts to the top of the chain case. there should be a bracket supporting the oil tank attached to the right bolt(looking at the caliper) behind this bracket and using the bolt attaching the oil tank is where the pulley is located. the bolt is double sized and threaded, slightly larger to attach the caliper and tapers to a smaller thread with a smooth portion in between for the pulley to ride ending with a nylock nut. odd it wouldnt be there.

Phaze · 12-28-2011, 01:57 PM

Is it me, or does that throttle cable look loose too?

Lefty506 · 12-28-2011, 05:00 PM

update: carbs are cleaned and replaced. fired up great and idles nice after a few mins warming up (hi-rpms for a minute then flatened out).

couple more things-

1) It is boging and wants to stall when a nominal amount of throttle is applied. I can only get the rpms up slowly with little pressure on the throttle. Any idea why? Is there a remedy?

2) It could be the resistance of the small gravel I was on today (moved it a few feet) but it needed to rev very high (slowly with litte pressure on throttle) to engage the clutch it seemed. How do I determine if the drive belt is tensioned properly?

Thanks again gents!

Lefty506 · 12-28-2011, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phaze

Is it me, or does that throttle cable look loose too?

Its not tight thats for sure but there is a bit a tension on it. Spring is probably wearing. Once I get it tuned up Im going to figure out this cord problem... I hate being a newby

Lefty506 · 12-28-2011, 07:24 PM

After the short run today I checked the brand new set of plugs, not fouled and dry. I noticed the right (if seated) plug was very hot to the touch compared with the other. Is this normal?

The belt looks brand new...

yamadad4 · 12-28-2011, 07:26 PM

may need to adjust the air screws a bit. 1 1/2 turns will be your starting point. also confirm the choke plungers are properly adjusted. depending on condition of the ski's wear bars, could be offering alot of resistance in the gravel, as can suspension settings.

for your belt tension, take a look at where the belt is riding in relation to the top of the secondary sheaves, as well how far you can depress the belt and we can go from there.

also, after re-reviewing your pics(thanks to phase), the oil tank bracket and the bolt i mentioned earlier is there, it appears the collar is left from the pulley and the pulley is gone. i may have something that will work, not original equipment, but it would be yours for shipping only and it will adapt.

Lefty506 · 12-28-2011, 08:09 PM

Thank you for the offer but I live on the east coast of Canada! Shipping would probably be more than I paid for the sled!

Well I counted the amount of turns it took to remove the air screws when i cleaned ( 9 full rotations), both screws the same. The spring does seem a bit too compressed... I will start with 1.5 turns in or out? I have a feeling it might be the wires/cap...

For the belt; I removed the guard and squeezed the belt from the top and bottom with one hand. I was able to squeeze them nearly together, about 1.5" gap between them.

yamadad4 · 12-28-2011, 08:37 PM

rules that offer out, i was thinking the usps $5.25 flat rate box, not sure how that applies to international.

turn the screws in until lightly seated(just when it stops or bottoms), then back out the 1.5 turns.

what belt are you using and wheres it sitting at in the secondary? there are adjustments and measures, your belt sounds long or your center to center is off.

Lefty506 · 01-07-2012, 08:42 AM

A bit of an update. I am still trying to figure the clutch engagement issue. Here are a couple of pics of the belt orientation. When I purchased the sled it pulled hard and then drove it around the yard and pulled good too. Should I try cleaning the clutch(s) ? Is this a pretty straight forward job? Any tips? Nice cold temps around here just waiting for more inches of snow. Thanks a lot guys!

bilbobagginz · 01-07-2012, 10:08 AM

newbies are why we are here. many people on here love nothing more than to help newbies out. at least that what i like to do if i know something that will help.

**RJ Gleason** · 01-07-2012, 01:02 PM

The belt alignment appears good in the pictures.
It also appears that the deflection is too much though. The belt should not be that far down into the secondary, it should be flush of slightly out (1/8") of the outer edge of the sheaves.

Yamadad4 would be able to tell you how to adjust that.

yamadad4 · 01-07-2012, 08:53 PM

definately sitting too low. flush or slightly below would be a closer set than slightly above, although i do set to the high side.

i would check the belt width first, it may be worn, and start with a new belt to reset your deflection. deflection is accomplished by adding/removing shims either between the sheaves or behind the helix, depending on the clutch.

Lefty506 · 01-08-2012, 07:02 AM

You guys are great. I have a new belt at the shop waiting to be picked up already. I will look into how to set the deflection on this machine and install the belt and let you fellas know how I make out.

There's about an inch on the lake behind my house right now, and 6-7" of ice, not nearly enough of either!

Lefty506 · 12-31-2012, 08:59 AM

Hi Guys, well we have snow here on the east coast of Canada

. Thanks for all the help last season. Had the sled out and she was working pretty good but here are my issues now:

So the wrong belt was on the sled the whole time... Replaced it and the old ones was quite a bit narrower and longer.

What rpm should the clutch engage on this sled? It seems that it needs to be revved more than necessary but again I'm a newb (but learning).

This is my main concern, after warmed up and ran for a few miles it wants to stall while stopped, then,when throttle is applied she bogs hard. With no hands on the brake and at idle she just inches along slowly then throttles up on its own and works great again. If it does stall because of too slow of speed/stopped it seems to flood itself and won't start for a couple of minutes.

I am going to get the clutch looked at soon, I have a feeling it needs to be tinkered with, out of my league and I dont have the proper tools.

It would be great to be able to give my technician some advice on where to look for my main problem.

Thanks a lot guys!

**RJ Gleason** · 12-31-2012, 09:12 AM

Primary (on engine) may be hanging just shy of full release which would cause the creep and idle problem.

Lefty506 · 12-31-2012, 12:12 PM

Thanks RJ, that makes a lot of sense. It does seem to want to take off on its own sometimes too (kind of dangerous). I don't suppose you could give me some direction on fixing this, or is this a job for my tech? Could this cause the stalling when stopped problem I have or do you think its the same issue?

Also one correction, my sled is a 91 not a 92, found that out today when I registered it for the first time. Also found out that a trail pass is only $40 because its an "antique" (20+ yrs old), new sleds are $250!