RJ Gleason

Yes it is dangerous and would cause the stalling problem too.
You could service it yourself and Yamadad1 can tell you how, but you might also have a little more piece of mind if you have it done, especially if you do not have the necessary tools.

__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


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Lefty506

Happy New Year everyone. I am thinking about tackling this project myself, next weekend. I am hoping Yamadad1 could help answer a few questions:

How can I diagnose and confirm this is the problem?
Can you point me to a good step by step instructional on this procedure?

I've been reading up and youtubing and building up my confidence

Is this what I'm in for?

yamadad4

your on the right track with that video although there are other things to check while your in there. best if you have a puller to remove the clutch, makes the job simpler.

if your sled is creeping forward on its own your clutches are sticking, you have the wrong belt, or the center to center is off on the clutches.

no problem walking you through it when your ready.

Lefty506

Thanks Yamadad1. I do have the correct belt on, ordered from the dealership. However, the old belt I took off wasnt even close to the new one, narrower (worn?) and longer (stretched?). The sled has always crept a bit at times since Ive had it, and the guy I bought it from warned about it too, so I am leaning towards the clutch or clutches sticking.

How do I check the center to center? What parts do you think I will need?

yamadad4

you can measure center to center from the primary clutch bolt to the secondary clutch bolt. should be around 10 5/8".

in the primary(depending on which clutch, i didnt backtrack the thread), there are plastic slider bushings that can wear, the roller bushings and rollers wear, the pins holding them as well as the weights can wear as do weight bushings and the weights themselves.

in addition, both the rollers and the weights have shim washers that usually wear. from there you have the cap bushing and the spider bushing. you can replace or address all except the spider bushing. that requires a bit of know how and special tools.

most clutches are neglected, period. sadly, all it takes is an annual cleaning and inspection. i have seen some nasty ones over the years. it can get expensive.

Lefty506

Well, I had some bad luck... last time I was out the oil line fell off and I blew a piston. the cylinder is in good shape but the rings and a cylinder need replacing. I think she blew just as I was getting home, heard a knocking sound just as I was about the shut her off. The rod turned kinda blue. I am wondering, the parts are $280 and labor about $150. Is she worth fixing? What about the blueish rod? 14,000 kms, original track, worn but no rips, studded, good seat everything else works.

1on3off

You should be able to get pistons, rings and all the gaskets for about 125-150 bucks. Replacing pistons and rings isn't that bad of a job. Get a service manual and tackle it yourself. You will have piece of mind of doing it yourself. Lots of good advice to help you when you need it.


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Lefty506

K, I'm gonna go for it. It s already at the shop and he'll treat her right. I'll let you know how I make out.
Don't suppose you could point me to a great parts dealer online, that ships to Canada?

1on3off

eBay has the best deals. One of my friends has used the parts unlimited brand and have never had an issue with them. I looked them up and they do ship worldwide. They run 44.95 per piston. Which includes pin and clips and rings. May be better deals, you can get many different ones.


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