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Old 10-31-2011, 05:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Enticer Vintage Snowcrosser Modded shaft?

I am building a Vintage snowcrosser with a Et340 chassis. I have the track, suspension and the primary clutch. (1" x 121 x 15 , sc-10 ii , comet.) I have been told the 3.29 pitch drive coggs won't work with a standard 2.52 window. I would just change the coggs if they weren't on a square shaft. new to the forum thanks in advance
Andy
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Talking Just to be clear

Just incase i wasn't obvious i am looking to clear a 1' paddle track on a 1983 et340 and I would like some guidence as to what is the easiest best and cheapest route. ( in that order )
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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at the time i did this, the 2.52's to fit that shaft were still available. do some searching, you may find some at places like dennis kirk and the like. even try oem?

i did a .92 track(7/8" ish) with an srv skid under an 83 a long time ago. drivers were available then through any western powersports dealer. seems as though a tooth or two were discounted to arrive at the proper driver diameter for bulkhead clearance, easily calculated mathematically.

the addition of some tunnel reinforcement and some basic bracketry, along with drilling new holes made it all work, along with a custom tunnel extension and rear bumper.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have read the et 340 trapper had a square driver and the 2.52 pitch but the bulkhead clearance is what worries me. I should mention I am a mechanical engineering student so I think jimmy riggin some brackets is a laugh. Dose anyone know of a Hex shaft that would fit in place of the square one. ( Then I can get a cogg kit From royal distributing here in Ontario Canada )
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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as a mechanical engineer, attention to detail would be expected. no mention of presidential engineering, take a look at the existing mount points and the reinforcements inside the tunnel, as well as the bracketry. thats what you need to duplicate in new locations in the tunnel to make your track and skid fit. reread my first reply.

was that laugh because you can easily tackle the project or a misread on your part? basically the response given was engineering 101.

good luck on your project.
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I do understand that i need to duplicate the bracketrey from the 'donor' chasis and I have not yet begun bracing the runnging boards or tunnel. At this stage I am wanting to get the track to clear the bulkhead before forging on. Is there a yamaha hex shaft that would fit the first gen et?
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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ex 440 parts sled

Yamadad4 is the 440 fan a direct replacment for the 300/340. If not a drop in how much work is involved in shoehorning one in?
There is a cheap ex 440 in the classifieds buy my buddy.
Thanks
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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havent tackled that one yet, but the ones i have done the major issues to overcome are typically engine mounts and exhaust fitment. another issue with some of the early models were clutch fitment in the chassis structure.

in my opinion, almost anything can be adapted. resources, tools, and skills are your limiting factors. i have done some odd ones.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I had an Excel III 340, same motor. I also have the Exciters. I haven't taken any measurements, but the mounting plate looks to have the same holes for the crankcase. Work would include swapping wire harnesses and switches, swapping mounting plates, clutch work to tune them in, and possibly the tack; depending on if it has the same reduction ratio.. Some of the major things are that the pipes exit on different sides of the sled. You would have to cut a pipe, flip it, and turn it around. Also, the Exciter 440's had a triple roller chain, and the Enticers only had a double roller chain, so I don't know it the stock one would be strong enough.
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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exciter

If I go to look at this 440 today and its nice i will just use that as my snowcross platform. It solves my shaft and driver wows and has more power. I dont know that it runs anything I should inspect with extra care?
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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When you run the track, do you have an alternate suspension? Exciters ran a 116" track, and the suspension was nothing golden, with it's 4" of travel.

Compression is a big one, it should be around 125psi to 135psi or more. if it's as low as 110psi, it's almost due for a top end. Start it, and see how it runs. It should be pretty crisp, and hit the noticeable power-band at 4k and take right off.

A look at the rotation of the secondary clutch, make sure if it is easy. Then take a look at the miles. If it has more than 6000 MI (10,000km) make sure you replace the speedometer side drive shaft bearing. The key is big and fat, in a slot, rather than a hole, so when the bearing fails, the speedo doesn't. On my dads, the noise of it failing tiped us off, by then it only had three ball bearings in it.

General Maintenance when you get it, change the chaincase oil, lube up the speedometer bearing if it doesn't have too many miles, clean the clutches, check the oil/ fuel lines, and you will want to clean the carburetor.

Things you might want to do later, can include a brand new Aean single pipe, comet 102c clutch, boring it out, porting, and timing adjustments. (with higher octane fuel to not blow the engine, of course)
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:36 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thumbs up 440 excited

Yes i do have a 121 skid its out of a 2001 mxz 700 ( sc-10 ii) and my dads rev 1" track. I'm pretty confident have herd what you've said. Especialy if I can get it to start and run becasue I expect to do a top end and change all both the drive bearings during track swap. I plan on running hand made gaskets (less deck hieght) and doing a clean up port job with my dremel. I have a commet duster primary for a et340 will that fit?
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You will need to change the weights and the spring accordingly, as now you'll have more power.
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Aaen Performance : Vintage Pipes

Here are some pipes!
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'll rephrase dose the crank spline/clutch match? the belt offset?
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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That I don't know, I would assume so though. The stock clutches look very similar.
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My Current Sled:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC 600 Twin ER 6290 MI - Stock... for now...

Old Iron:
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6042 MI (9825 KM)
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 7,000 MI (11266 KM)


WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE


2012-2013 Miles: 1739
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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you will have to research that a bit. the bore and taper will be the same but there were a few models in those years where the depth of the bore was deeper depending on chassis requirements. the amount was minimal but makes a difference when setting up the clutches.
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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OK, Quick update, I am using the 340 bottom end with a 410 top end, the 410 has some clean up porting decked heads and I will run it with the C102 comet I have and a ovation Carb. The Track is now ON I got drivers from a 1978 that ran a 2.52 pitch track and the chaincase and speedo are hooked up. I want to put my Sc10-ii skid in but the stupid thing is too wide at the back. The front is easily adaptable. Does any have any Idea why I shouldn't mount the new brackets to the outside of the old ones to gain width and clearamce? Thnx
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Is there any way you can make the skid mounts narrower there?
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Skidoos have these aluminim Spacers with setscrews that stop the tunnel from rubbing on the tube fame of the skid. I could turn them down at work on monday but I'm thinking I can bypass the problem and make the mounts work as they don't have ti be under the tunnel.
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