HELP! phazer psi twin pipes - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
http://www.snowmobileforum.com
Go Back   Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum > Specific Snowmobile Forums > Yamaha Snowmobiles


» Sponsors





Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-18-2011, 03:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
HELP! phazer psi twin pipes

I'm doing a build on my phazer and a while ago I bought a set of PSI twin pipes for her. I tried to test fit them yesterday and it looks like I'm missing pieces. I have the 2 pipes but there appears to be adapters that are needed to bolt onto the engine block and the pipes are held onto the adapters by springs. Has anyone ever used PSI twins before and have any idea what these adapters look like? pics or specs? I'm pretty handy and if I had specs I'm sure I could weld something up, but being 2-stroke the length is critical.

Thanks
Don
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-18-2011, 07:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
basically they are just individual exhaust manifolds. i have something similar for comparison although not for that sled. as you mentioned, length is crucial, but it should be fairly easy to determine by dry-fitting the pipes. you could actually cut up the stock y-pipe for the flanges and head to a muffler shop for the correct pipe pieces and fitment to the pipes for a good seal. some strategically placed loops for the springs welded on and your set.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 02:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
Yeah it looks like it woulnt be too hard to make. But it also looks like it interferes with the engine mount that's on the clutch side. I was hoping to see a pic of one to see how they got around it, and what angle it comes out at.
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 05:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
i understand your plight. time to get creative. the only place i know of to find a picture of that besides someone that may have a set would be dynotech research. unfortunately with them, you have to spend $20 to look at the stuff. may or may not be worth it in your case.

you would think in this day and age there would be a dedicated website just for phazers. maybe there is one.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 06:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
Yeah I actually have a subscription to dynotechs site and I've read every article they have done on the phazers. They do a couple tests of it, but don't show any pictures. I also have an AAEN torquer and a psi single that looks like the AAEN. I was hoping to try them all out and see which one worked best with my motor. The extra rpm of the twins was quite appealing because I plan on putting an 1 3/4" lug track on it and use 7 tooth drivers and a lower gearing so it would hopefully not lose too much of it's top speed.
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 07:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
take a look at the 94-96 vmax as well as the exciters, same bend on the manifold.

you dont necessarily need the extra rpms to pull a longer track. engine will survive longer with gearing and clutching vs pipes.

i have found the pipes to make for peaky gains at the sacrifice of reliability on the fanners, especially the phazer, in trail applications. obviously straightline isnt an issue. i would recommend sticking with stock exhaust. i have seen many burndowns from others, never my own, but i have been close a few times.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 09:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
Thanks for the tip on the vmax and exciters. I'll look into those and see if they are done the same way.
I'm not changing the track length, it's still going to be a 136". But I would like a more aggressive lug and a little lower gearing. I'm from BC and we do a lot of mountain riding in deep powder. And I think if I'm going to keep my phazer that's what I'm going to do to it so it suites my riding better. I'm not so concerned about top speed, I would like to be able to keep up to my buddy's on the trail but I have most of my fun in the alpine.

The extra power I want is mainly for plowing through the powder, and it might just be the AAEN torquer that fits the bill best for that. I also have a set of 38mm flatslides and dial-a-jets for it. Careful tuning is the name of the game.

If everything goes well I might try a turbo and efi on a spare engine for next season.
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 10:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
i remember the deeper pocket days.

your on the right track for power building with the carb theory. efi is a bit of a lofty goal but i would live to see how that works.

i always thought the st phazers had a leg up due to their weight. tracks have always been a hold back. the driver change will more than make up for a gear change. getting the track down and back a bit from the driveshaft is an added bonus(think 144). shave some lugs, change the drivers, and flick that sled around.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 12:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
Efi isn't that difficult. I already have a megasquirt efi system I can use to control it. I could get a set of throttle bodies off the Polaris Indy 500 efi sleds. They use standard low impedance bosche fuel injectors. You can pick up a set cheap on eBay with a tps. I have a small turbo that would probably be a good match for it. And a wideband O2 system. Wire in an inline fuel pump and Fpr.
I think the hardest part would be tuning it. I imagine I'll go through a few sets of pistons in the process, but the results could be awesome!

I have a new dilemma. I have a couple options for rear skids. I have an early Doo sc10 from a 136 touring sled, but it needs new shocks.
And locally there is a pro action skid from a 98 venture with good shocks and wheels for $100. Either way is gonna cost me approximately the same, so which do you think would be the better skid to use?
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 09:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
Sled Of The Month Judge
 
Yamaha440's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fife Lake, MI.
Posts: 2,330
You won't go through pistons if you start on the rich side.
__________________
WAKE-UP AND SMELL THE TWO STROKE

Toys:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC ER 600 7770 MI
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440 6231 MI
1997 Yamaha GP 1200 Triple 109.9 hrs.
1967 Mercury Cougar XR7 87,000 MI
2014 Season Mileage:1466
Yamaha440 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 09:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
i know nothing about the sc-10, but i do know that venture skid will be just about a direct bolt in to the phazer if its the torsion spring model. its almost the identical skid. an even bigger bonus would be if it was one of the 151 venture skids. if it happens to be one from a venture and has the transfer rods, walk away. it would be counterproductive as that skid will add 20+ lbs over your existing skid.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 10:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
Very true about the starting fat. But with a fresh efi system with somewhat educated guesses about starting lb/hr injectors, base fuel pressures, the bsfc of the modified motor, and an unknown timing curve. I will end up frying a couple sets before it's tuned properly.

I ended up buying the yammy skid. And a few other goodies. It's a proaction 136 skid from a venture. And I got a 141" proaction skid from a mountain max, a nearly brand new camoplast 1 3/4" track, a pretty unique phazer pipe that I've never heard of, and a set of 38mm flatslides. $300 for the whole lot. The track was worth that so I couldn't turn it down.
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 07:28 AM   #13 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
sounds like a score on parts. you can work with that skid and lighten it up a bit. look into a transfer enhancement kit or make your own.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 03:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
I'll take a look at the transfer kits. I have to find the bolt pattern for putting it in too.
The pipe is a DRP pipe. I've never heard of it before and I can't find any info online for it.
I'm gonna have to find a local dyno and test all my pipes to see where the power is on them.
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 10:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
i should have the mount point measures for both the 136 and the 141 proaction skids.

drp rings a bell, look at bender or dynaport (same company now)for a comparison.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 10:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
That would be awesome if you have the measurements for those skids!
I've been looking and have found a couple online but for different years or sizes than mine, so I don't know if they will be the same. It seems like most people are switching these skids out to put M-10s or other aftermarket skids in.

I looked on the bender website and the pipe they sell looks similar to the DRP one I have. But there are a few visible differences. The DRP has a bulge on the top of the expansion chamber that has been welded on, it's about 1.5" wide and 3/4" high and about a foot long.
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2011, 10:22 PM   #17 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
i have both those skid mounting point dimensions. the 141 is different than the 136. which one are you needing? just had the 141 measures out the other day, i will have to dig up the 136 numbers.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2011, 01:15 AM   #18 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
If I could get both that would be great. I'm planning on using the 136 for this sled, but it would be good to have the 141 for future reference. I was taking a look at them today and the 136 from the 98 venture mounts the front arm farther forward and at full suspension compression the rail tips actualy come through the inside of the arm so it gives the front of the skid about 9" of travel. Vs the 2000 mountain max one where it's mounted farther back and has rubber bump stops on the rails and only gets about 7" of travel in the front.
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2011, 08:46 PM   #19 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,019
i will get you some dimensions.

take a closer look at the 136 skid, i think the bump stops may be missing and could cause you problems down the road.

notice the front arms on both skids, the 141 should have more of an "H" appearing arm while the 136 will be more "W". at the base of that W, stuck in a "V" between the rail mount and the first cross bar, there should be a rubber stopper. these had a tendancy to fall out or break off. this may be the difference in your travel.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2011, 07:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 42
There are no bumpstops there. But there is a nice dent on the top of the rail where it should be....
And I noticed that Lower shock mount bar is bent from the shock bottoming out and has pulled the tips of the rails in Slightly. I put the skid inside the track and the rails are still completely within the the clip area with a bit of room on each side still. Do you think it's worth it to straighten it all out? Or run it as is?
4cefedomni is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:23 AM.



Copyright SnowmobileForum.com

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0