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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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1980? exciter 440 carb

The guy that lives down the road from me gave me his sled 1980 exciter 440. The motor was locked up but he had a replacment for it same motor not sure the year. long story short i got the motor in after about 5 hours of switching around he coil packs and trying spark plug. That was yesterday today i figured out all the fuel lines got all the wires hooked up and i have a couple problems. sled ran great with the pipe off but as soon as i would put it back on it would act like its flooding out. I come to find a nest in the muff. so i cut the pipe off where it meets the muff. runs very nice at higher rpms but want to shut off at idle. After i shut it off and im putting it back together i notice there was gas running out of the carb. I started the motor back up and there is just gas pouring out of the carb over flow. took it apart and cleaned it but didnt seem to matter im out of ideas. any ideas?
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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After putting some things back together



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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 08:59 PM
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carb spewing fuel would typically indicate a problem with the needle and or seat. or the float is stuck.
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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The float was my first guess but it seemed to be fine. Do they make a rebuild kit or something I can use that might help it more then a normal clean. Because this thing sat out atleast 5 years out in the weather and it hard telling how long before that.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 07:19 AM
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the seat will have an o ring or gasket where it goes into the carb body. the inlet needle will have some sort of coating at the tip.

more often than not, you will find some debris where the needle sits in the seat affecting the ability for it to properly close off the fuel flow. start by removing the needle and checking.

next, remove the seat. should be held in place with a small tab and a phillips screw. careful, those screws are easily stripped. remove the seat and check for obstruction, check the o ring, and check the supply circuit(where the fuel comes in).

on the seat should be a number casting. break out the magnifying glass. this will be your reference number to search for an aftermarket one. oems are amazingly expensive. needle and seat will come as a set.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what the seat is or where it's located? Sorry if thats a dumb question
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Nevermind the needle and seat are inside where the floats connects to the carb right?
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 03:42 PM
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Correct!

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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thank you guys i dont get a day off till wens to mess with it picking up my other vintage sleds tonight
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-09-2011, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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would it be worth it to pick up a new or used carb or is it not worth the money if so what size do i need 36mm?
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-09-2011, 06:32 PM
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new carbs are spendy, used you never know what your getting. i would advise repairing yours as needed.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-09-2011, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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update: just got a chance to look at the carb real quick pulled the seat and needle off. Wow i could barley get the needle out there was this yellowish build up.... i would say that was the cause ill take a pic tomorrow
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-09-2011, 10:26 PM
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Carb cleaner is going to be your friend. As far as I know, my carbs haven't had a seat, just the rubber tipped needle. All 4 of them. I'll get the stock settings tomorrow.

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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
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I went and got 2 big cans of carb cleaner and a can of motor degreaser. i figure ill need it with all 3 of my sleds
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 08:50 AM
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Spray or soak carb cleaner?
Spray is really only good for the outside of the carb body.
Soak type (or ultra sonic) is the best way to go.

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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I'm going to clean it and put it back together tomorrow night and see what happens I'm hoping all the build up was the problem

2011/2012 9MILES
1980 Yamaha Exciter 440
1973 Polaris Charger 294
1973 Arctic Cat Lynx 292
Pull starters broken 2 "so far"
Yelling and swearing at the sleds.... more then i can count
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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I dont know if you can see from the pic but i got a bunch of crap off of it

2011/2012 9MILES
1980 Yamaha Exciter 440
1973 Polaris Charger 294
1973 Arctic Cat Lynx 292
Pull starters broken 2 "so far"
Yelling and swearing at the sleds.... more then i can count
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 07:03 PM
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if you dont have access to the liquid carb cleaner in the gallon can, simply spray your aerosol can into that container(watch your eyes) and let it soak. the aerosol will evaporate rather quickly depending on temps but its a viable fill in in a pinch situation.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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thats kinda what i had going on it the back round i have the carb is self siting in it to try to clean all the crap off of it and i got quit a bit off of it now ill drain it and ill put everything into soak over night. Im hoping it works i really wanna ride it and fix it up nice this winter

2011/2012 9MILES
1980 Yamaha Exciter 440
1973 Polaris Charger 294
1973 Arctic Cat Lynx 292
Pull starters broken 2 "so far"
Yelling and swearing at the sleds.... more then i can count
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