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Ask Yamadad4?

138K views 1K replies 161 participants last post by  kccats 
#1 ·
As some of you know, i answer alot of your direct questions via Private Messaging and work closely to advise or guide.

i also help members through Visitor Messaging as well. if any of you have ever checked me out, those conversations are up for public viewing.

Although i enjoy the one on one personal contacts, i feel that some if not all the contents may benefit others as well.

So i decided to open myself to all the yamaha riders in hopes of answering all of your yamaha questions as best i can in hopes of helping others so all can veiw.

I will answer any questions as soon as possible (i ride too!) but, in the mean time, check this section to see if your problem has been addressed.

I will continue to deal on personal levels as needed, and as i mentioned, i DO enjoy it, but sometimes my inbox nears full capacity and i feel guilty when i have to delete messages and it takes a few reminders as to our prior conversations.

Perhaps all will benefit from whatever ills your sled is experiencing. i dont know it all, but i have alot of experience.

Lets pull start this concept and see how she runs!
 
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#2 ·
Great idea, I have found you to be a wealth of knowledge as I rebuilt my 2004 Viper engine and more recently asking you about changeing out my rear dollies/rear axle rollers. I finaly got around to it, ordered my 3 new wheels and once I got to tearing it down.... I found the cotter pin missing and the nut just about to fall off. (not really a bearing issue> but I wnet ahead and chnged it all out... To get the axel out I ended up taking the nuts compeltely off the adjustment bolts were I could easlily pull it all apart. To keep the same setting you mentioned, I tightened down full jsut a couple turns, counting the turns to full in before I remove the the adjsutment nuts.. The bearings seemed good but I did have some cracks showing so I changed them out. Went back to gether easily, once I got all the parts lined up....almost ready for snow!!
Thanks for the help///
 
#4 ·
rear dollies spacers

Yahama dad-- As noted yesterday--I replaced the 3 back dollies and putting it all back together when looking at the spacers. one of the 2 outer spacers was milled down on one end. None of the other 2 spacers have this they are just plane tubes. Looking at the catelogs on the internet or the shop manual it does not show this milling? I could not see any where that it would insert into. Has someone milled this for a special purpose and/or does it actually need to be placed a special way??
 
#7 ·
Yahama dad-- As noted yesterday--I replaced the 3 back dollies and putting it all back together when looking at the spacers. one of the 2 outer spacers was milled down on one end. None of the other 2 spacers have this they are just plane tubes. Looking at the catelogs on the internet or the shop manual it does not show this milling? I could not see any where that it would insert into. Has someone milled this for a special purpose and/or does it actually need to be placed a special way??
shouldnt be any milling on any of the spacers, at least not factory.

could be one of the washers may be missing and the spacer tube wore its way into the adjuster or the rail giving it a milled appearance.

note: there should be washers between the spacers and the adjusters. other than that the spacer tubes just ride against the bearings.
 
#5 ·
you know a lot about all sleds
 
#8 ·
I think your right it was worn on the frame that connects with the adjuster... Not sure how long I was riding with the nut loose. Once I went to take it off, the cotter pin was missing and I could take the nut off with my fingers. I think I was lucky not to cause more problems... The old bearings looked ok but the wheels had some cracks so I changes them out since I had the wheels.... But I think the loose nut allowed the spacer to rub on the forward part of the frame...

Thanks
 
#9 · (Edited)
What kind of antifreeze does my 1998 SX700 take? I pulled my carbs today and one of the antifreeze lines found its way into a convenient position while I brought the carbs inside to work on them. I forgot a tool in the garage and went back out and there was a huge puddle of antifreeze. HUGE! So I figure I need to bleed it and add some more. I don't how doable this is without it being cold and such with snow and fun times but the sooner I get my sled done the less I have to freeze my butt off in my garage working on the darn thing.

 
#12 ·
eli, if thats on your phazer, it has mechanical brakes, not hydraulics.

what you need to do is reset the auto-adjuster. sounds like someone hit the brake when the rotor was removed.

anyway, if thats the case, i will walk you through it. if your sled does have hydraulic brakes, someone has added them.

this will be a good read for anyone with a pre-97 yamaha sled as most back then used the auto-adjust.
 
#13 ·
probably auto adjust then I just kinda guessed so how do I adjust it?
the handle just fully depresses and doesn't slow it down at all whereas before you could feel it applying pressure about halfway through the pull
 
#14 ·
lets try the easy way first. sometimes on those you can simply keep pumping the brake lever several times(20 or more) and the adjuster will ratchet back around and start to grab, if your lucky.

prior to doing this you will want to check the cable adjustment where it come into the caliper. i like a tighter brake(less pull on the lever) so i used a little tighter spec for the cable showing at this connection, or just before the pads engage the rotor.

if you cant get them to "pump up", its time to tear in.
 
#18 ·
yes. removal of the carbs as a set away from the engine and airbox.

to effectively clean the carbs, you will need to open them up and remove some parts for cleaning. best part about the triples is you have comparisons right next to the one your cleaning. by doing one at a time, you can compare assembly to the one next to it. all three will need cleaned.

let me know when your ready, i will guide you.
 
#19 ·
94 vmax secondary

Do you have a secondary clutch that would work on a 94 vmax 600? I think I have seen a thread where you were advising someone on how to fit a newer secondary and also offering one for sale. Anyway I realize that newer secondaries are not straight bolt ons but I have no problem fitting a different clutch and working out the hardware requirements. Let me know as it is riding season up here.
 
#20 ·
Do you have a secondary clutch that would work on a 94 vmax 600? I think I have seen a thread where you were advising someone on how to fit a newer secondary and also offering one for sale. Anyway I realize that newer secondaries are not straight bolt ons but I have no problem fitting a different clutch and working out the hardware requirements. Let me know as it is riding season up here.
i probably have one from the 94, whats wrong with yours? i think the few 95-96 ones i have are gone. thats a better upgrade for your sled but only the 95 and 96 secondary clutches will work. ebay or used sled parts places would be a good source. if you find one, no problem coaching you through the install.
 
#21 ·
The bushings are worn badly and they are fairly pricey. But having said that I could buy the bushings and probably have it up and running for under $200.00. My thinking was the 95-96 secondaries seem to be better clutches and why spend the money on the original. But if it is all pretty much the same I will just rebush and respring the original.
 
#22 ·
$75-100 on the average for the used 95 and 96 secondaries. money ahead in my opinion. i have some bushings and sheaves that should be compatable with your 94 i would just about give away to get you by until you can upgrade. need to compare some numbers. hows the helix in there now? hopefully the worn bushings havent affected it.
 
#28 ·
this works for me: set the parking brake. reach in to the rear sheave on the secondary, push and rotate with palms or fingers to the rear of the sled to spread the sheaves. this will loosen the pressure on the belt from the secondary. from there its a matter of working the belt up and over the secondary sheaves and removing from the primary last. this of course after you remove the star nut from the cowl as well opening the side panel. three pins on the bottom of the side panel at the belly pan if you want to pop it off.

takes a bit of practice sometimes, best to try it in the shop and familiarize yourself before needing it in the field.
 
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