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post #481 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silentmisfit View Post
that is having the lines unhooked from the carbs and no fuel when i pull it over, once i clean the carbs it takes about 15 minutes of using starting fluid to basically fill the bowls.checked filter in a tank and line from tank,no problems there.just seems weird to have no fuel trickle or flow from pump lines,but yet i can get it to run once i finally get the bowls full,it will start with choke after that but low end is weak but higher rpms is fine...cold or hot.
remove the pulse line from the fuel pump, hold your thumb over it and have someone pull the rope. see what kind of suction you get.

from there, you can always open up the fuel pump and clean it or simply replace it to rule it out.
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post #482 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 04:12 PM
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I am going to look at a 2004 Viper with Bender pipes on it. Do they have any heating issues with those pipes on?
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post #483 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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as long as it has the rear heat exchanger in place you shouldnt have any cooling issues, snow dependent. mtn vipers had this cooler, shorties sometimes didnt.
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post #484 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 07:18 PM
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Thanks for all your help in the last few months with my Vmax, then with all the info on the yamaha tripples, and today with my viper. I can not wait to take that machine out and see what it can do. What a big diffrence from my vmax. Is there anything I can do to show my gratitude?
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post #485 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 02:01 PM
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ok so it apparently was the fuel pump sled is running pretty dang nice minus a hesitation from stop to WOT.im pretty sure its the air screw but i cant remember which way to adjust and the only way to adjust is to pull carbs off everytime i wanna try lol.is it in for richer or out?
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post #486 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 04:59 PM
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In is richer.

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post #487 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 10:49 PM
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Phazer Throttle Issue

I have two Phazers one is an 89 and the other a 91 Phazer 2. I am experiencing the same problem with both sleds. Both sleds start fine and idle great but when I open the throttle up they lack power. One of the sleds won't go over 35mph at full throttle and the other is lucky if it reaches 20mph.

Both Carbs were rebuilt last year and I have had the isse ever since, I tried adjusting them with little luck any help would be greatly appreciated. I am not a motor head I am a computer geek. Give me PC and I will make it sing but give me a motor and watch it cry.
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post #488 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 11:32 PM
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Go to the Tech section and look in the "how to" sticky and there is a tutorial on carb cleaning.

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post #489 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-10-2013, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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I have two Phazers one is an 89 and the other a 91 Phazer 2. I am experiencing the same problem with both sleds. Both sleds start fine and idle great but when I open the throttle up they lack power. One of the sleds won't go over 35mph at full throttle and the other is lucky if it reaches 20mph.

Both Carbs were rebuilt last year and I have had the isse ever since, I tried adjusting them with little luck any help would be greatly appreciated. I am not a motor head I am a computer geek. Give me PC and I will make it sing but give me a motor and watch it cry.
even though they were serviced last year, depending on your fuel choice, it wont take but a few weeks for them to garbage back up, especially with lack of use.

from there, depending on who did the work, its not uncommon to miss some areas or mis-adjust some things.

yours sounds like either the choke cables or a blockage in the carbs. assuming the clutches are doing there jobs.

being that your a pc guy, eye for detail and following direction shouldnt be an issue. make you a motor head in no time if your not opposed to dirty fingers and bloody knuckles.
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post #490 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 06:39 PM
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Thanks I pulled one of the carbs yesterday and I am going to go through it again. I didn't consider the choke adjustment so I will take a look at that as well.

Dirty bloody hands are not an issue.
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post #491 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 03:33 PM
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Throttle sticking...

Hey Yamadad4! I posted this earlier and got a little info but saw you and figured I'd ask you if you have any other thoughts on it. I have a 97 Mountain Max 700 Triple and out of the blue my throttle started sticking--sometimes at high speeds but mostly at low speeds. It doesn't kick all the way back down to idle or "closed." I lubed it all over on the trail and it helped a bit. Lubed the cables etc. Pulled them out and the carbs are still sticking on the bench. One guy on here mentioned the needles or the slides being bent. I can pull all that apart tonite and check those. But what about the return spring sticking on something or the connecting rods between the carbs where they go into and attach to the carbs? Any chance of that connection getting hung up inside?

The other thing is if I pull the rack apart what should I keep an eye out for?

Thanks so much!
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post #492 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chappy78 View Post
Hey Yamadad4! I posted this earlier and got a little info but saw you and figured I'd ask you if you have any other thoughts on it. I have a 97 Mountain Max 700 Triple and out of the blue my throttle started sticking--sometimes at high speeds but mostly at low speeds. It doesn't kick all the way back down to idle or "closed." I lubed it all over on the trail and it helped a bit. Lubed the cables etc. Pulled them out and the carbs are still sticking on the bench. One guy on here mentioned the needles or the slides being bent. I can pull all that apart tonite and check those. But what about the return spring sticking on something or the connecting rods between the carbs where they go into and attach to the carbs? Any chance of that connection getting hung up inside?

The other thing is if I pull the rack apart what should I keep an eye out for?

Thanks so much!
perhaps i should have read this first. i did respond to your post prior to reading this, lets take it from there.
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post #493 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 04:41 PM
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Hey I have an 87 Bravo that was working fine until last week. I went for a ride and when I shut her off Im not sure if oil or water came out of the breather hose. Ever since then shes been sputtering and backfiring. I replaced the plug, put in some anti freeze, and the carb was supposed to be cleaned by a mechanic a couple of weeks ago but Im not sure if he cleaned it. Any ideas on whats wrong or where to start?
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post #494 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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little confused on that one, isnt your bravo fan cooled? where did you put the anti-freeze? which breather hose? the one for the fuel tank or the oil tank? noticable difference between water and oil, oil would have left a mess.

not uncommon for carbs to replug with todays fuel, or even a bit of bouncing while riding dislodging debris and having it stick somewhere in the carb. those little keihins are easy to clean, once out of the sled. i would start there.
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post #495 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 08:20 PM
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Hi Yamadad4, Took my 88 Enticer 340 ltr to Canada last week and it ran great most of the time. One day however, after 15 mile +- ride I shut it off for an hr or so. Then I realized I forgot my ax back where I had cut some wood. When I went to start it I had no spark. Towed it in, changed coil, still no spark. Got home today and took apart the kill switch and put back together, took cdi box out of holder(but didn't unplug) just to get the #rs. Repaired a tail light wire then gave a pull just to see and I had spark, ran fine all day using kill switch and pull starting. My problem is I'm afraid I may have an intermittent spark problem, where would you start?
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post #496 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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i would start at the wires leading to the cdi from the mag and their connections. loose, rusted, corroded, etc i would check first. then inspect the wires closely for any fraying, pinches, or abnormalities. chances are when you wiggled the cdi off its mount you probably re-connected something or moved it enough to make contact.

work your way out from there. messing with the kill switch and its wires could have helped you as well. some of the flat pin plugs can have the tabs back out slightly so watch for that.

wouldnt think a bad tailight wire would affect the ignition, but you have several connections leading from the bars to the light.

lastly, check all your ground connections.
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post #497 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 11:52 AM
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Thanks Yamadad4, I ruled out the kill switch because during the breakdown I unplugged it and still had no spark. I didn't know then if it was a "open kill" or "closed kill" system but when I got it running yesterday I confirmed it will run\start w/ it unplugged. Also disconnected the tail light wire and as you predicted, I still had spark (at first I was happy to find that wire as I thought I had my smoking gun, but not so).

I will re check all the connections today. Assuming all is well with them would you think that intermittent spark problem is more likely caused by the stator or cdi box?
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post #498 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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neither. both the stator and the cdi are typically a "go or no go" components. stator can sometimes work well when cold but drop power after a certain temp.

i would lean more towards a bad wire or connection. the fact you "played" around in there jostled something in the wiring or connections, returning your spark. i would rule these items out prior to considering the cdi or ignition, based on the information you provided.
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post #499 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 09:12 PM
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Thanks, looked over wires and started the sled several times today and all seems well.
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post #500 of 797 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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if the connections are clean and theres no weird stuff with the wires like bare spots or meltage, enjoy.
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