Ask Yamadad4? - Page 24 - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

yamadad4 · 01-29-2013, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conda2

Yeah Ive stuck a small wire in both air box side holes and both go same distance and stop.. I looked for that small pin hole like you said and never found one and the inside of the carb is clean so be hard to miss. I read a earlier post like 2010 on here about the same carbs with someone saying something about Canada and emissions and maybe there suppose to be closed then a Moderator or so said yeah suppose to be closed. But I trust you as you've been very knowledgeable about all questions. Good luck on the carbs

i was close, but the verdict isnt in yet. cant figure out where the fluid or air is going exactly on the left tube(throat) or the uncapped tube(body), but they seem to be somehow connected. i need something dyed, but the overflows seem to factor in.

carbs upside down, airbox side away from you, find the apprx 1/8" hole on the right, just below where the fuel supply comes in, inside the carb body. spray that hole and you will find the hole on the left side. what i remembered originally to be a pin hole is actually just smaller than 1/8" more so located on the side. you should see a divet of sorts in the carb, its just above that.

i will play with these a bit more and update any new discoveries. i would have nothing intelligent to offer about canadian emissions.

Kelly15 · 01-31-2013, 03:15 PM

Will the tripple pipes from a 98 srx fit on to a 04 Viper? Or do I need to get special aftermarket pipes for the viper?

Josh Kidner · 01-31-2013, 05:54 PM

If they are different body styles or engines it will not fit, even if its the same cc. Idk much about yamis but that is basic rule of thumb.

yamadad4 · 01-31-2013, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelly15

Will the tripple pipes from a 98 srx fit on to a 04 Viper? Or do I need to get special aftermarket pipes for the viper?

direct bolt on, no. they can be adapted but its alot of work with not much gain and actually adding weight.

slp's would be my first choice, they are all expensive. you will need to run quality fuel and make some carb adjustments. if you have e-start or reverse, its hard to find aftermarkets to fit without adjustments.

clodev · 02-01-2013, 12:35 PM

yamadad4,
i have a 1990 yami exciter 570 that is a resale sled that i'm trying to finish and would like confirmation or insight on the idle rpms. The sled starts and has a small tube to each carb from the cooler to heat up the carbs. If i take out the on off lever (its frozen in the off position) and direct connect it will this cause any issues? Once warmed up it stays at 3000rpm's so i believe this needs to be done to solve my rpm issue. Also it is a bear to start is that part of the hose not running anti freeze through it. seems like it is flooding out. Odd set up

yamadad4 · 02-01-2013, 07:41 PM

the carb heat wouldnt have any effect on the idle whether on or off, unless your engine is heat soaked and the ambient temps are above 40*, then you would have a bogging issue as the heat would richen the fuel intake.

the coolant flows into one carb, to the next carb, and then back into the circulation of the cooling system. this system was developed to reduce carb icing sending water particle into the engine, an issue that was addressed and has followed through for years.

if your having hard starting issues, the exciters ran a 2 into 1 cable for the choke plungers. most times in my experience, either the plungers arent correctly adjusted, or one of the cables isnt operating the plunger.

as for the high idle, one of the slides is more than likely out of adjustment, stuck, or improperly installed. there are adjustments for the slides, the idle, and the throttle cable freeplay. obviously the tors is bypassed.

look back to the 88's, no heat to the carbs. the carb heat on or off has nothing to do with your issue, and off is a good spot for the switch to be in unless your in fine powdery snow in temps under 20*F.

Silentmisfit · 02-03-2013, 04:36 AM

Hi yama i was wondering if you could tell me how to properly adjust my carb float levels,i keep getting different stories on how to do it.they were touching the carb body when i had them upside and i know that cant be right.

**RJ Gleason** · 02-03-2013, 04:40 AM

The float arms should be parallel to the carb body bowl flange.

Silentmisfit · 02-03-2013, 07:20 AM

so then lets say if the back of the arms are 10mm the front should be 10mm too? just making sure im understanding right lol.Also im getting ready to put another oil pump on my sled,there are 2 marks on the lever is the first mark set at idle and the second mark set at WOT?on my fuel pump i had a repair guy tell me that if i pull my motor over about 10 times into a cup i should get enough gas to fill the carbs,however i pulled my motor over about 20 times without the plugs and had no gas come out does this sound right?

yamadad4 · 02-03-2013, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silentmisfit

Hi yama i was wondering if you could tell me how to properly adjust my carb float levels,i keep getting different stories on how to do it.they were touching the carb body when i had them upside and i know that cant be right.

you want to angle the carbs while upside down so that the float tang is just touching the needle. usually about 45* angle, with the float pin on the high side.

measure the distance from the carb body(where the bowl would attach, not including gasket) to the top of the float. 21-23mm should be close.

next best is to use a fuel level gauge hose and measure the fuel level with the engine running. hard to get one the right size, but i think 6mm is the correct inside diameter of the hose. much larger than the drain nipple on the carb.

clodev · 02-03-2013, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yamadad4

the carb heat wouldnt have any effect on the idle whether on or off, unless your engine is heat soaked and the ambient temps are above 40*, then you would have a bogging issue as the heat would richen the fuel intake.

the coolant flows into one carb, to the next carb, and then back into the circulation of the cooling system. this system was developed to reduce carb icing sending water particle into the engine, an issue that was addressed and has followed through for years.

if your having hard starting issues, the exciters ran a 2 into 1 cable for the choke plungers. most times in my experience, either the plungers arent correctly adjusted, or one of the cables isnt operating the plunger.

as for the high idle, one of the slides is more than likely out of adjustment, stuck, or improperly installed. there are adjustments for the slides, the idle, and the throttle cable freeplay. obviously the tors is bypassed.

look back to the 88's, no heat to the carbs. the carb heat on or off has nothing to do with your issue, and off is a good spot for the switch to be in unless your in fine powdery snow in temps under 20*F.

You were so correct. I found the issue, it was the tors sensors in the carb artificially keeping the slides up. I backed them off to not touch the slide and put is all back together. Taddum it worked and idles at 1500 RPM's now. Have a antifreeze leak somewhere in the system that is driving me nuts. Got sick of it and put it on CL for $500 OBO to whom ever wants to monkey with it. pulling 135 and 132 on the psi so motor seams good.

yamadad4 · 02-03-2013, 05:27 PM

had to clean another set today and played with them a bit more. that left ventrical in the airbox side of the carb throat goes somewhere with compressed air, just cant seem to figure out where.

anybody know of a dye that wont harm the carb?

yamadad4 · 02-03-2013, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clodev

You were so correct. I found the issue, it was the tors sensors in the carb artificially keeping the slides up. I backed them off to not touch the slide and put is all back together. Taddum it worked and idles at 1500 RPM's now. Have a antifreeze leak somewhere in the system that is driving me nuts. Got sick of it and put it on CL for $500 OBO to whom ever wants to monkey with it. pulling 135 and 132 on the psi so motor seams good.

too bad you gave up. while your waiting for someone to buy it, look at the hoses leading to and exiting the front heat exchanger, as well as the exchanger itself. seems to be a common leak point. this assuming there are no signs of a head gasket leaking.

Conda2 · 02-03-2013, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yamadad4

had to clean another set today and played with them a bit more. that left ventrical in the airbox side of the carb throat goes somewhere with compressed air, just cant seem to figure out where.

anybody know of a dye that wont harm the carb?

Been checking everyday seeing if you got anywhere with them. Maybe the carbs arnt my problem I will be doing another compression test and checking fuel pump

Silentmisfit · 02-04-2013, 07:18 PM

ok is it possible for a fuel pump to not work so good at low rpm and work great at high rpm?i pull my motor over till im blue in the face and no fuel at all comes out,but once i start it and get it up to a certain speed the sled runs great?

Kelly15 · 02-04-2013, 07:33 PM

What do you think of the RX1 and 4 stroke snowmachines?

yamadad4 · 02-04-2013, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silentmisfit

ok is it possible for a fuel pump to not work so good at low rpm and work great at high rpm?i pull my motor over till im blue in the face and no fuel at all comes out,but once i start it and get it up to a certain speed the sled runs great?

i guess it could be, but it would be more abnormal than normal in my opinion.

you could have an issue with the needle and seats in the carbs, a bad pulse line, blocked vents on the tank, crank seals, etc.

is this issue from a cold start, constant, or intermittent? cold start could be a choke plunger or cable issue, constant is more likely having the fuel back flow from the carbs(needle and seat), intermittent may point to the fuel pump.

next time try priming a cylinder or two prior to pulling it over. about a soda bottle cap full of preferably mixed fuel in the spark plug hole and see what that gets you.

yamadad4 · 02-04-2013, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelly15

What do you think of the RX1 and 4 stroke snowmachines?

loaded question. use specific in my opinion. cant go wrong with the 4 strokes for the most part depending on your riding habits. nytro mtx would be my choice for off trail, but i like the way they ride.

Kelly15 · 02-04-2013, 10:23 PM

I guess I just want to know what you think of Yamaha's 4stoke engine when it comes to reliability and how many miles you can put on them? I saw a picture of a Yamaha with 17000 miles on it and was blown away. It seems like a 2stoke would never get to that mileage. I am seeing alot of Apex and Nytros with 12000km or 7500miles on them and they are still wanting top dollar for them. It seems like they are not having to be rebuilt as often as a 2stroke if not at all. Correct me if I am wrong but I would assume that when it does come time to rebuild them it will be pricey? And maybe that is the down side. I did like that I could do all the work on my vmax myself and am looking at getting a viper at the moment but in the future I would like to get one of the Yamaha 4strokes. Is the riding position that much better than a viper? I keep hearing of rider forward position. Does it just make it easier to go from a sitting position to standing? Would a boss seat on a viper be kind of like that?

Silentmisfit · 02-05-2013, 01:15 AM

that is having the lines unhooked from the carbs and no fuel when i pull it over, once i clean the carbs it takes about 15 minutes of using starting fluid to basically fill the bowls.checked filter in a tank and line from tank,no problems there.just seems weird to have no fuel trickle or flow from pump lines,but yet i can get it to run once i finally get the bowls full,it will start with choke after that but low end is weak but higher rpms is fine...cold or hot.