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Old 01-20-2013, 09:32 PM   #421 (permalink)
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Thanks for taking time to help me out on this,the sled was put on the back of a pickup brought it maybe 30 miles.I did remove all jets and choke plungers,then i sprayed all ports and parts down with golden eagle carb and left them sumerged then blew all holes and parts off with compressor.oil pump cable has been checked and pump lever goes fully closed.Now on the reeds almost all have the clearance of a buisness card,2 have the clearance of a doubled over card and 2 have the the clearance of 3 buisness cards.the exhaust ports on head are basically soaked with fuel mix(coming out from gaskets).And yes it kinda takes off after a distance,but slowly builds up speed and maxes out at like 20mph.What is the easiest way to tell if i have fuel in my case?On the plug cap i took off both by hand today and it shocked me,not sure how to tell if i have a bad cap or not.Now if im not mistaken a weak spark is orange and a good spark is blue?I had both out and they have blue but not like im used to on a car.Can i eliminate the stator as being the culprit?

Thanks again for your time.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:12 AM   #422 (permalink)
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Blue spark = good.
Old plug caps should be replaced as a matter of course since the rubber does deteriorate over time and does not insulate as well any more.
With that much variation in the reeds, it is certainly not helping with your running problems.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:37 PM   #423 (permalink)
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reed equation doesnt make much sense, but they sound terrible. i can put a used set to your door for $20, if your in the lower 48. prior to that, try turning them over and see if they seal a bit better. tiny little screws, loctite from the factory, have a well fitting phillips and take your time. use purple loctite on the screws.

i would guess your stator to be fine, but you may have some rust or corrosion on the flywheel. typically this wont associate to your issues, but you can rule it out.

at this point, i would suggest removing the pipe and see whats inside. pull the sled over a few times and see if any excess fuel exits the y pipe. (spark plugs out). while your at that point, if you can pinch the fuel supply off, pull it over several times and then let it sit to allow any excess fuel to evaporate out.

from there i would look at the vent lines on the fuel tank as well as the fuel pump.

clutching for straws at this point and eliminating the obvious. at about $5 each for plug caps, you may consider swapping them as well. caps should show 5ohms resistance if you have a multimeter.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:55 PM   #424 (permalink)
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How do i set the spring on the primary clutch? There is 3 holes on the clutch plate and 4 on the cover. 1,3,6,9. Which way do I twist the spring? Counterclockwise, clockwise? What are the factory settings? It did not seem like it got to the right rpm (7000-7200). I thought it should be 8000? Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:33 PM   #425 (permalink)
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I also have a question about my carbs. They are on a 96 vmax 600. I cleaned them out and reset the jet screws by first turning them in all the way to find out where they were set at and then took them all the way out. After cleaning i reset them to 1 1/8th turns out. This is what it also said on a chart that is located on the belt cover and what it was also set to beforehand. Does that seem right for Saskatchewan? It seems like the spark plugs get a little oily. Should I turn the screws out more? Would that help with my plugs and also my gas mileage? I have read about lean and rich but not to sure which way to turn and which way does what and what it does performance wise. I thought I read that if it is to lean it will burn the engine out hence I am a little hesitant to vary from what it was set at and what it tells me to set it at. Any help clearing some of this up for me would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:40 AM   #426 (permalink)
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I tried flipping the reeds over they were actually worse that way,so i went ahead and ordered a set of boyesen power reeds should be here tomorrow i hope.I stuck a tube down inside and blew throught to see if i could here bubbles and i didnt but i will try the fuel line trick and see what happens anyways.i will buy a set of plug caps while im out also,i know when i held the rubber boots in my hand they shocked me,ive held car plug wires and havent had that happen.Anything specific im looking for inside the pipe?would a faullty oil pump cause anything like this?And what with the fuel pump should i be looking at?
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:19 AM   #427 (permalink)
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I tried flipping the reeds over they were actually worse that way,so i went ahead and ordered a set of boyesen power reeds should be here tomorrow i hope.I stuck a tube down inside and blew throught to see if i could here bubbles and i didnt but i will try the fuel line trick and see what happens anyways.i will buy a set of plug caps while im out also,i know when i held the rubber boots in my hand they shocked me,ive held car plug wires and havent had that happen.Anything specific im looking for inside the pipe?would a faullty oil pump cause anything like this?And what with the fuel pump should i be looking at?
you would be looking for air bubbles in the fuel lines both before and after the pump and checking the pulse line for fuel.

on the pipe, just wanted to be sure it wasnt loaded with fuel.

a faulty oil pump would over oil the system. sled should still run better than what its doing, plug fouling with oil would be the norm.

report back after the reed and cap change.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:27 AM   #428 (permalink)
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How do i set the spring on the primary clutch? There is 3 holes on the clutch plate and 4 on the cover. 1,3,6,9. Which way do I twist the spring? Counterclockwise, clockwise? What are the factory settings? It did not seem like it got to the right rpm (7000-7200). I thought it should be 8000? Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated.
the helix will twist clockwise while twisting the sheave counter-clockwise. if you use the numbers from the sheave + the number on the helix x 10, that will give you the setting. example: 6(helix) + 1(sheave)=7 x 10=70 degrees. depending on what model and spring color would determine the factory setting.

you dont necessarily want to tune for rpms using the secondary clutch, but you can fine tune rpms. check to be sure your primary is clean and the components are in good shape. you may have to lighten the weights to achieve your desired rpm.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:31 AM   #429 (permalink)
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I also have a question about my carbs. They are on a 96 vmax 600. I cleaned them out and reset the jet screws by first turning them in all the way to find out where they were set at and then took them all the way out. After cleaning i reset them to 1 1/8th turns out. This is what it also said on a chart that is located on the belt cover and what it was also set to beforehand. Does that seem right for Saskatchewan? It seems like the spark plugs get a little oily. Should I turn the screws out more? Would that help with my plugs and also my gas mileage? I have read about lean and rich but not to sure which way to turn and which way does what and what it does performance wise. I thought I read that if it is to lean it will burn the engine out hence I am a little hesitant to vary from what it was set at and what it tells me to set it at. Any help clearing some of this up for me would be greatly appreciated.
thats the starting point and you can tune the sled from there depending if its bogging or how its reacting to the throttle.

you shouldnt be able to adjust these to the point of engine damage, within reason. if your plugs are a bit oily, could be you havent reached operating temperature or your oil pump needs some adjustment.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:33 AM   #430 (permalink)
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"thats the starting point and you can tune the sled from there depending if its bogging or how its reacting to the throttle."

So it is best to make 1/8 of a turn adjustments and just see how it reacts? I am new to this and it seems to be running good, but i have no experience to compare it to. Would a properly tuned carb get me to 8000 rpms or does that all have to do with the weights in the primary clutch? When climbing a hill or in deep snow it seems to bog down a bit. Would that be the clutch or the carb or is that just normal? I know it is only around 90hp so I am not sure if that is normal or not. I recently just changed the belt and that seemed to help a bit. Thanks for all your help so far. i love snowmobiling and like that i am able to do all this work on the sled myself. It is a very rewarding experience.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:50 PM   #431 (permalink)
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When you climb a hill or get into deep snow [under heavy load], the secondary will back shift to keep the engine rpms up to prevent stalling the engine.
The peak rpms of an engine are determined by the spring and weights in the primary and also the spring tension of the secondary.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:17 PM   #432 (permalink)
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Thanks. Would I remove or add weights on the primary to increase RPMs? What should i set the secondary to? Or is that just trial and error? Should i set the secondary first then the primary or vise versa? Should my 96 vmax 600 climb a hill as well as my friends 95 polaris 600? I know his sled is lighter but if i get the setting right on my clutches would it matter? Or does it make a diffrence that his is a tripple and mine is a double?
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:30 PM   #433 (permalink)
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My secondary was set at 1 and 3. So i guess that that would be 40 degrees. And my sled was at about 7000-7200rpm. If I go 1 and 6 that would be 70 degrees. Could I do 3 and 6 for 90 degrees? At what point is to much? Thanks for making sence of this. This is really helping me alot.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:03 PM   #434 (permalink)
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lots to consider there. if you were set at 40, chances are it has a green spring. your spring could be weak causing an early shift creating your bog or power loss under load. sled being almost 16 years old whats the maintenance history?

by increasing the wrap(degree angle), you will effectively slow the up shift(increase rpms), but everything comes as a sacrifice, including the backshift. take it one step at a time.

if you lighten the primary weights, rpms will increase. this is achieved by altering the rivets. most likely in your case the tip weight is where you would start. figure about 300-500 rpm per gram. you will need some guidance here and you will have to see how the weights are set.

back to maintenance, a clean clutch is a happy clutch and the twins were hard on the roller and weight bushings. you need to make sure of the condition of all the wear components in the clutch. same with the secondary. any sticking or binding is robbing you of power.

as for your carbs, you need to adjust them using the air screw to eliminate any bog just off idle or stabbing the throttle. as you loosen the screws, the mixture becomes leaner, turning in richens. you want to adjust the screws in or out in small increments until the rpms just start to rise and they are responsive to the throttle. fine line there as well for given temps and barometric pressures.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:01 PM   #435 (permalink)
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On the spring there is a green paint mark on it. So i am guessing that means it is the green spring like you said. Should I get a new spring? Or by setting it to 70 degrees would that compensate for the weak spring or is that not a good idea? The secondary I had completely apart, cleaned it and it seems really good.

The primary I have not had apart yet but it seems like it is working good. I just looked at the rollers. Are they ment to be loose somewhat or are they usually tight around the screw? After looking at them I am assuming that they are worn and need to be replaced.? I guess it would be wise to replace the weights to.? Like for like I am assuming. Do I just weigh them to find there weight?
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:43 PM   #436 (permalink)
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higher wrap can compensate for the weak spring, but it may be to your best interest to start with a fresh one. you be out about $25.

rollers should be fairly tight, but can move a bit from side to side and not have any flat spots. the bushings are replacable.

same with the weights, bushings can be replaced if the weights are in good shape. yours will have an id stamped on them. most likely an 8CA, unless they have been changed. either way you will want to know whats in there. the oem weights have provisions for adding weight via rivets, most having two holes needing filled. in your case, the tip hole(furthest one out) will most directly affect your rpms. yamaha offers several options for rivets based on weight and material. you need to know where you stand now so you can adjust accordingly. a sled that works at sea level wont perform as well at say 5000' elevation, but can by simply making adjustments.

as mentioned, best to start fresh before trying to tune a worn clutch. evaluate whats in there. if you dont have a clutch puller, you can still access all the components with the clutch on the sled.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:02 PM   #437 (permalink)
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I have both clutches off. The primary I had to do the water trick to get it off. I tried with just the puller but it would not budge. Put in some water, used teflon tape and it popped off like butter. Looks like the bushings are toast on the rollers. They are loose. Looks like I need to order some parts and replace the spring. I will replace the primary spring while I am at it. I will take the clutch appart and do a assement. I have to agree that its "best to start fresh before trying to tune a worn clutch." Thanks for the fantastic advice. I have really learned alot and this will help me to know what to look for when I buy a new(used) sled in the future. I got this sled cheep, but I guess I know why now.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:19 AM   #438 (permalink)
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Update:Sled is runing 90% better after changing reeds and plugs cap,I still have what seems like alot of smoke and what sounds like a bit of a misfire at idle.Its also a bit sluggish from stop to bout 1/8 throttle beyond that the thing is a rocket.It also took bout ten pull with choke to get it started this morn.Im not familar with how sleds should start or run so are these things normal?Im just happy im able to ride it now.But dont want to do any damage to it if somethin needs to be taken care of.

Thanks for your help Yama and rj for helping me not scrap this thing lol
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:04 PM   #439 (permalink)
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Ask Yamadad4?

I have a 1997 vmax 700 triple and wondering if I could use a primary clutch off a 1996 , without it effecting the way it runs and would the weights be the same ?


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Old 01-24-2013, 06:07 PM   #440 (permalink)
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Re: Ask Yamadad4?

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I have a 1997 vmax 700 triple and wondering if I could use a primary clutch off a 1996 , without it effecting the way it runs and would the weights be the same ?


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Im willing to bet it would work fine, but you would likely have to change spring and weights, a whopping 10$ fix! Good luck man!
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