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Old 01-08-2013, 09:20 PM   #401 (permalink)
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:34 PM   #402 (permalink)
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Hi yamadad. Couldn't find any rub throughs or other likely shorts. did find that the magneto is apparently not charging. My brand new battery goes dead after a few rides so I checked the voltage and it does not go up when motor is running and/or revved up. Stays at ~12.9v, same as charged battery
I'm thinking CDI/Magneto is gone. BTW, tach doesn't rev up accurately and other dash lights don't work either.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:49 AM   #403 (permalink)
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Check for blown bulbs, I suspect a bad regulator here.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:28 PM   #404 (permalink)
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check your ouput from the stator using a digital multimeter. with the stator unplugged, you should see .32 omhs between the black wire and the white wire. while your in there, check the lighting coil output. .30 ohms between the black and the yellow. sled needs to be around 68*F for an accurate reading.

ground wire on the regulator can be checked for a positive connection as well.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:28 PM   #405 (permalink)
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We just rebuilt a 600 twin yamaha top end.
After 5 or 6 rides, we decided to check compression.

It's showing 140, and 125.
I know one side is generally lower than the other, is that the output side?
From what I understand, you should be within 10 PSI, correct?
What are the possible problems if we continue to run it?
What are the possible problems when taking the reading that adversely affect it?

Reading should be taken with throttle WIDE open, and BOTH blugs removed, yes?
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:46 PM   #406 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpawl31 View Post
We just rebuilt a 600 twin yamaha top end.
After 5 or 6 rides, we decided to check compression.
Good idea!

Quote:
It's showing 140, and 125.
I know one side is generally lower than the other, is that the output side?
From what I understand, you should be within 10 PSI, correct?
That would be within 10%

Quote:
What are the possible problems if we continue to run it?
It might get better or not.

Quote:
What are the possible problems when taking the reading that adversely affect it?
It is very likely that one of the rings on that cylinder has not seated properly yet.

Quote:
Reading should be taken with throttle WIDE open, and BOTH plugs removed, yes?
And pulled until the gauge stops rising [at least 5-6 times].
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:20 PM   #407 (permalink)
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Thanks RJ.

Wow, really, you think 5-6 rides of about 20 miles a piece, you think a ring is still not seated? I though it was a very short period. That is a good thing to know then, we'll keep an eye on it. Thanks again.

You don't think we'll hurt anything leaving it as is, is that what you're saying?
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:04 PM   #408 (permalink)
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you could have several areas to key on with the hard start warm issue.

float height, needle condition, fuel pump condition, pulse line, vent lines, etc. may even be in the jetting or condition of the engine(rings, seals) down to an electrical breakdown.

hard to pinpoint any single area without actually experiencing the symptoms, but next time your out and the sled is heat soaked, try applying about 1/8 - 1/4 throttle while doing the rope tug and see what happens. did that sled experience a bit more fuel consumption?
Haven't used the Enticer yet this year. I do remember that pulling with the throttle open a bit when hot seemed to help. What problem would that indicate?
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:32 PM   #409 (permalink)
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Thanks RJ.

Wow, really, you think 5-6 rides of about 20 miles a piece, you think a ring is still not seated? I though it was a very short period. That is a good thing to know then, we'll keep an eye on it. Thanks again.

You don't think we'll hurt anything leaving it as is, is that what you're saying?
the ring may not seat if the end gap wasnt properly measured and set. not enough gap holds the rings away from the piston allowing blow-by. eventually it will wear down ans seal up but there is no specified amount of time or miles for that to occur.

if its running and your happy, worry about it when the snow melts. you wont be hurting anything but the rings, and they are considered a wear part.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:33 PM   #410 (permalink)
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Haven't used the Enticer yet this year. I do remember that pulling with the throttle open a bit when hot seemed to help. What problem would that indicate?
never really tried to address the issue as a problem, just automatically hit the flipper when pulling the rope on warm starts.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:03 PM   #411 (permalink)
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Ok Thanks Yamadad4. Kind of confusing, this enticer use to start hard cold but great hot, now its the other way around. LOL
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:25 PM   #412 (permalink)
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Ok Thanks Yamadad4. Kind of confusing, this enticer use to start hard cold but great hot, now its the other way around. LOL
based on that info, i would look at the o-rings on the choke plunger or check the choke cable adjustment. or just crack the throttle.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:35 PM   #413 (permalink)
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lost

Hi,im new to the forums and im hoping you might be able to help me.I just purchased a 97 vmax xtc 600 twin that ran great when i test drove it(smoked a bit),we brought it home and it smoked like crazy,i replaced gas with new 89 octane gas and oil with a lower ash,also put new plugs in,when i have the track up it will rev up but doesnt seem to be extremly responsive,when i place it on the ground it will go but barely and that is WOT,it takes almost 100 ft to get any speed out of it.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:16 AM   #414 (permalink)
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Start with checking that you do not have a fouled plug.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:37 AM   #415 (permalink)
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almost sounds carb related. there is the possibility that the little bit of run time you had on it allowed some crud to pass into the carbs. i have seen this happen several times.

does it make a difference in running if the choke lever is flipped to the half position?
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:00 PM   #416 (permalink)
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based on that info, i would look at the o-rings on the choke plunger or check the choke cable adjustment. or just crack the throttle.
Will do. Thanks again!
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:17 PM   #417 (permalink)
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No difference with choke on or off and the plugs are brand new,it starts on the first pull but has no pwer once i get on it
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:34 PM   #418 (permalink)
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well isnt that odd. thought this was going to be an easy one.

you test rode it prior to purchase and it ran fine? guessing that the excessive smoke on the test run was simply a matter of engine temp as they will smoke alot until thoroughly warmed up.

since you have the means to elevate the track, can you open the hood, flip up the belt cover and monitor what the clutches are doing?

you will want to note the position of the belt in the secondary clutch prior to it spinning as well as the rpm where the primary grabs the belt.

your the eyes and ears, be as descriptive and specific as possible.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:35 PM   #419 (permalink)
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Unhappy

Well i didnt test ride it my brother and father did,they said it ran great,i had the track up today and they best i can get it to go to is 7k rpm.Took the sparkplugs out and they were soaked.Last night i took the carbs off and tore them down and soaked them over night in cleaner,then used a compressor to blow everything out,low and behold a jet was just sitting in the bowl so i put it together properly.Still doesnt run right smokes like crazy hit throttle and it has no response will go but barely till i get a little speed wont even come close to winding out.Clutches look like they are engaging and disengaging good,it grabs about 2500-3k rpm.Now i took my reed cages to a dealer yesterday and they said they were fine however i dont think they are,all 6 reeds on both cages are not flush on cage i can see gaps through them all at the tip.carb boots were soaked in gas and i had fuel drip out of air chamber.Just a note this sled will start on first pull at all times why im not sure bout reeds.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:48 PM   #420 (permalink)
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its not uncommon to have maybe a red curly hair width gap between the reeds and the cages. anything more would be a concern. pick the end up with a finger nail and listen for a snap when you release it. although hard starting is usually associated with bad reeds and your not having that issue. i probably have a used set of oems if needed.

it almost sounds like you may have excess fuel in the case or even the pipe. you may try removing the pipe and checking and you can air out the case or burn it out if your daring.

it sounds like your missing on one cylinder until a point where it finally comes in if i am reading right. it will take off like it has some power after a given distance? is the oil cable seated correctly in the adjuster nut and not stuck apart?(smoke). chance theres a bad plug cap? easy to ohm out or just replace.

its going to be something real simple, i am sure, wish the sled was here.

a thorough carb cleaning includes removing all the jets, the choke plungers, the air/fuel screws and confirming they are free from blockage, including the jets located on the airbox side.

how far was the sled trailered after you bought it?

hang in there, we will get this.
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