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Old 12-28-2012, 12:40 PM   #381 (permalink)
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We have a fully running parts sled, great motor. Just blown suspension all around, bad track, and broken hood. So we're thinking swapping that motor is the better option right now.

How difficult is it to swap the motor out? Really doesn't seem that hard, are the motor mounts adjustable? We can leave the primary clutch on and basically just disconnect electronics, carbs, exhaust, belt... then unbolt and pull?

Oh and is it true that with that seal out, he was losing compression in the crankcase and what not - so oil, gas, air charge were all leaking out of that and THAT'S why it was so damn noisy? It literally sounded like the motor was knocking, but on further inspection most of the noise was from that spot.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:59 PM   #382 (permalink)
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Hi Yamadad,
I have an 02 Venture with 5800 miles which I recently purchased. The maiden voyage was today and I put on about 40 miles. Sled ran good, but I did notice one issue. I have a drive train noise. The noise is only heard when I am pulling out. It begins as soon as the sled begins to move and is present up to about 10 mph. The sound is difficult to describe. It has a slight vibration to it. Maybe slightly metalic in nature. At one point I thought one of the track cog wheels was skipping, but then I accellerated heavily and it was smooth, with no noise. I do not notice the noise or feel any vibration under 10 mph. The vibration seems to be to prevelant to be a jack shaft bearing.
I hope my description is realying the matter. Any suggestions as to where to begin to find the problem will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:45 AM   #383 (permalink)
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try swapping the belt out with a known good one. believe it or not, a worn or flat-spotted belt will create the conditions you described. give it a try and report back.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:11 PM   #384 (permalink)
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Cleaned the clutch and it seems to have fixed the problem now I need to figure the brakes out
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:29 PM   #385 (permalink)
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tear into the brakes and lets figure it out. i should be able to walk your through it, just pay attention to what your removing and how it fits prior.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:07 PM   #386 (permalink)
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What should i start with?
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:29 PM   #387 (permalink)
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start by removing the caliper from the chaincase, cable and all. you may need to pull the airbox, cant remember. once you have that up and out and in front of you, you can tear into the auto adjuster.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:51 AM   #388 (permalink)
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Please help me, racking my brain.

I have a mid eighties phazer I am looking at for a friend, He purchased this sled out of a barn and asked me to get it tip top for him. Well anyhow I did the usual, cleanded carbs, changed case fluid, looked over. Pulled skid replaced all worn parts including drive shaft bearings. Anyway all went well till test drive. Engine would hardly move machine across the snow. With a lot of trial and error I found out when attempting to drive sled underload the way the sled would run would change if I moved either the thumb warmer switch or the hand warmer switch. After some testing found out that if I disconnected the yellow wire from the lighting coil the engine will run perfect. Reconnect wire and wont rev up all the way. According to all the wiring diagrams I can find this should have nothing to do with the ignition. I did verify all connections, grounds and otherwise, this makes no sense to me. Please help!!! I did check voltages produced out of coil and seems to be normal, lights are bright and regulator is working.

Last edited by viperman; 01-03-2013 at 12:55 AM. Reason: missing info
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:49 PM   #389 (permalink)
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Thanks Yamadad
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:08 PM   #390 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hybridbn View Post
Thanks Yamadad
no problem!
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:20 PM   #391 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperman View Post
I have a mid eighties phazer I am looking at for a friend, He purchased this sled out of a barn and asked me to get it tip top for him. Well anyhow I did the usual, cleanded carbs, changed case fluid, looked over. Pulled skid replaced all worn parts including drive shaft bearings. Anyway all went well till test drive. Engine would hardly move machine across the snow. With a lot of trial and error I found out when attempting to drive sled underload the way the sled would run would change if I moved either the thumb warmer switch or the hand warmer switch. After some testing found out that if I disconnected the yellow wire from the lighting coil the engine will run perfect. Reconnect wire and wont rev up all the way. According to all the wiring diagrams I can find this should have nothing to do with the ignition. I did verify all connections, grounds and otherwise, this makes no sense to me. Please help!!! I did check voltages produced out of coil and seems to be normal, lights are bright and regulator is working.
the yellow wire would be the direct feed for the lighting circuit. surprised someone would tap into that far down. look a little further up the line perhaps for a better spot to tap in, think blue. resistors in place?

my guess would be if there is not a direct short to ground somewhere in the grip system, your taxing the output from the flywheel, or both. in other words, if there is any abnormality between the flywheel and the generator(rust, corrosion, bad magnet, etc), or perhaps something in the wiring between the coils on the stator plate breaking down, your robbing power from one to the other. may even be that the lighting coil portion of the ignition is tired or the cdi is thinking of giving up. hard to say, electrical gremlins are a pain.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:27 PM   #392 (permalink)
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I have totally disconnected all warmers from the yellow circuit. No difference. Is the lighting coil in anyway connected to the pulse coil? This would explain the problem, something breaking down. In the diagrams I dont see any connection to each other. I have been professional auto tech for 27 years and worked on lot of bikes jetskis and sleds and never had to scratch my head so hard and not come up with an answer. I really do appreciate your input. Thanks
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:28 PM   #393 (permalink)
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electrical issues are a pain. for what its worth, heres my concept of stators and what they do and what it affects:

on the older sleds, basically most will consist of three or more coils. lighting coil, pulse coil, and charge coil. all are attached to the same plate and the wires are routed as a group. around all this is the magneto or "flywheel". it services all the coils attached to the plate via the large magnets attached, generating electrical output of some sort as a group.

theory only, i am no expert in the electrical department, but if one of the coils is failing, it would seem that perhaps it could upset current flow by maybe demanding more magnetry. i dont really know how it all works. next you factor in the fact that all the wires associated with the coils are routed out through the case behind the flywheel. i was thinking along the lines that the added current draw from the hand warmers may be upsetting flow or even the possibility of the wires you arent seeing being damaged, burnt, touching, etc.

i read that if you deleted the added accessories, your sled would run fine. the accessories in theory being tapped into the output from the lighting coil was causing the running issue, so my thought was to look at the entire ignition system. i know on the newer stator plates taxing one system can cause other problems, thought it may apply to your situation. you may also look at the condition of the magnets on the flywheel itself. i have seen several rust up and by simply cleaning them up running issues go away.

good luck, i hate electrical problems.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:13 PM   #394 (permalink)
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Thanks for your input on my problem, I think I a may have a bad source coil, It doesnt ohm out just right. I pulled motor tonight and will try to acquire a coil tomorrow. Wish me luck. Thanks again, will let you know how it comes out.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:16 PM   #395 (permalink)
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ohm tests are usually a good indication. as i mentioned, inspect the flywheel as well. you will need a soldering gun to swap those coils. good luck!
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:52 PM   #396 (permalink)
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Hi Yamadad,
I have a 1990 Phazer ll and I cleaned the carbs. It starts great but is very boggy at low rpm's especially when warmer. Sometimes it will stall and requires partial choke to restart even when warm. Runs great at mid to high rpms and has good acceleration once it gets over its bog. Partial choking overcomes the bog and then she takes off like a scalded cat.
Would you think richening up the pilot screw would solve the problem? turning it in right? I set it at the factory recommended 1.5 turns.
thanks. Brian
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:12 PM   #397 (permalink)
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I have a 1997 Vmax 600 with electric start. The headlight is just a tiny flicker of pale yellow on high or low beam even though I changed the bulb which was not burned out. I am suspicous of the magneto but don't know how to check and don't have electrical testers that I know how to use.
It has a brand new $140 gel battery and cranks well. What would you do?
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #398 (permalink)
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checking the pilot circuit would be first on the list. if your overcoming a bog or using the choke, you may have blockage. the most overlooked part is the air jet on the airbox side of the carb sitting at about the 5:30 position. theres three holes there, 2 of them go some where. these openings clog easily and often need cleaned. from there, be sure the pilot jet is clear as well as the orifice it goes into.

for your vmax and the dim light, if thats at idle or low rpm, its normal. if its always that way, what happens when you turn your hand warmers off? i would check under the seat for some wires grounding and backtrack form there. be prepared for a worm can opening when removing the seat.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:12 PM   #399 (permalink)
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Since I have a proclivity to lose springs and am "back together" challenged but like to try anyway, I am wondering if disconnecting the tail light would be a good test for any ground problems under the seat?
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:31 PM   #400 (permalink)
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that may be a good idea, but in theory it wont apply. your sled should should have 2 sets of connectors under the seat. one closer to the fuel tank and another near the tail light assembly. if there is a rub through anywhere between the brake levers's handlebar switch and the tail light, disconnecting that wouldnt eliminate or show a short.
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