Ask Yamadad4? - Page 18 - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
http://www.snowmobileforum.com
Go Back   Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum > Specific Snowmobile Forums > Yamaha Snowmobiles


» Sponsors





Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-16-2012, 10:44 AM   #341 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2
Fuel shut off valve

I am thinking of installing a fuel shut off valve on my 2002 600 vmax er on the left side in the fuel line comming off of the fuel tank, between the tank and the fuel pump. The line is 1/4", can I use a universal 1/4" fuel valve that is sold at the local shop or do I need something different. I want to install the valve so I can trailer the sled with a full tank of fuel.

Thank you in advance for any help you can give me
Mrfix
mrfix is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 12-16-2012, 02:19 PM   #342 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,040
what are your concerns with trailering and a full tank of fuel? i know there is mention of this in several owners manuals but honestly i have never had an issue. i tow alot and i tow alot of sleds. always with full tanks. the trick is is to leave about an inch from the bottom of the filler neck for expansion. like right to the end of that white tube inside the tank. if your tank vents are free from obstruction, you shouldnt have a problem.

as for the shut off, the universal one should be fine. you will find the oem lines to be a metric inside diameter and most fuel shut off valves closer to standard measure. what you run into is a too tight or too loose fit. good quality hose clamps usually takes care of the problem, along with some other tricks.

be sure and get a good quality fuel line if you need to change or add any.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 06:12 PM   #343 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 42
Hey yamadad!

Thanks for all your help on the suspension. Granted it cost me over $400 to rebuild, but they are SO nice now, and setup for ME and my fat ass.

We cleaned up the carbs last night... will get you some pics, good LORD were they nasty. Can't believe it ran and idled so well before hand!

Here's my questions for you:

What do you recommend for an aftermarket air filter media?


I do not have TPS on ANY of the 3 600XT's I have, all 1996 models. What gives? Will my sled not get proper timing advancement?


The TORS is disconnected, I assume this is OK? Could I mess anything up reconnecting it, since I know which two wires it goes to? (They are hanging loose right next to the carbs)

By the coil, there is a small white connector not connected to anything. Also one coming out of the wires that attach to the TORS wires (that are disconnected.) Are these for aftermarket things? Or what do they go to?

And lastly, is it strange to have THREE, 1996 VMAX 600 XT's.... and have ALL the TORS disconnected, and NONE have TPS?

Thanks again man, you have helped a lot already!
dpawl31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 06:20 PM   #344 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 42
Whoops! Double post. Sorry.

Last edited by dpawl31; 12-16-2012 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Double post, browser crash!
dpawl31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 07:24 PM   #345 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,040
unless your sleds were ST models(mtn max) equipped with the not so smart carbs, you wouldnt have any tps.

for the air filter, are you referring to the one thats in the hood above the fuel tank or the one on top of the airbox? oem for the hood one, any prefilter material for the airbox(slp has a good and expensive one available). your more concerned with water/snowdust ingestion than dirt/dust.

disconnected tors wont hurt anything engine related, but it is a great safety feature. usually it gets bypassed do to improper adjustments on the throttle cable. sometimes its due to switch failure and these are expensive to replace. the carb one can be played with and sometimes brought back to life. safety tethers are a cheaper alternative to switches. i would plug the wires back in just to see what happens and pay attention to the cable adjustment.

as for the wire connectors, do they appear to be factory? the one by the coil isnt ringing a bell. there are a few wires pre-wired into the circuits for options like e-start or reverse buzzers. could be one of those kodak moments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpawl31 View Post
Hey yamadad!

Thanks for all your help on the suspension. Granted it cost me over $400 to rebuild, but they are SO nice now, and setup for ME and my fat ass.

We cleaned up the carbs last night... will get you some pics, good LORD were they nasty. Can't believe it ran and idled so well before hand!

Here's my questions for you:

What do you recommend for an aftermarket air filter media?


I do not have TPS on ANY of the 3 600XT's I have, all 1996 models. What gives? Will my sled not get proper timing advancement?


The TORS is disconnected, I assume this is OK? Could I mess anything up reconnecting it, since I know which two wires it goes to? (They are hanging loose right next to the carbs)

By the coil, there is a small white connector not connected to anything. Also one coming out of the wires that attach to the TORS wires (that are disconnected.) Are these for aftermarket things? Or what do they go to?

And lastly, is it strange to have THREE, 1996 VMAX 600 XT's.... and have ALL the TORS disconnected, and NONE have TPS?

Thanks again man, you have helped a lot already!
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 08:42 PM   #346 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by yamadad4 View Post
what are your concerns with trailering and a full tank of fuel? i know there is mention of this in several owners manuals but honestly i have never had an issue. i tow alot and i tow alot of sleds. always with full tanks. the trick is is to leave about an inch from the bottom of the filler neck for expansion. like right to the end of that white tube inside the tank. if your tank vents are free from obstruction, you shouldnt have a problem.

as for the shut off, the universal one should be fine. you will find the oem lines to be a metric inside diameter and most fuel shut off valves closer to standard measure. what you run into is a too tight or too loose fit. good quality hose clamps usually takes care of the problem, along with some other tricks.

be sure and get a good quality fuel line if you need to change or add any.
Thank you for the quick reply Yamadad, I was reading the manual and read the part about trailering with a half tank of gas or less so I don't flood the crankcase while trailering. I also have a 1999 artic cat panther that has a fuel valve and that manual also says to close the valve while trailering. The yamaha has never given me a problem but I have always been concerned about it. The concern I have about installing the valve is generated by the internet, some say a 1/4" valve is too small and the engine would run lean on top end, I have two valves, one 1/4" and one 5/16", both have the same inside diameter but the 5/16" valve has thicker barbs, they would both pass the same amount of fuel, the fitting off the tank appears to be 1/4" or its metric equivelant so I don't feel there should be an issue, I thought I'd ask you because you have a lot experiance with these things, I may just leave it alone because I have not had an issue and neither have you, so I guess I just worry too much.

Thanks a bunch
Mrfix
mrfix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 01:57 AM   #347 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 42
I was under the assumption they all had tps and tors. Thanks for that info. I'll give plugging them I'm a whirl.
As for filter, my piece on the hood is toast as is trim around air box hole. Thinking I'll drop a piece in on top of the inner plate 1/2 way in the box?

Both of the extra wires look to be two or the terminal white clip connectors. One by the coil right under what I believe is the regulator or rectifier? The other comes out of the same wire bundle that the tors sensor plugs into. Your guess is probably right, as I don't have electric start our reverse on any of the 3 sleds.
Thanks again.
dpawl31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 09:43 AM   #348 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Kenora, Canada
Posts: 20
I have a 97 VMAX 600 XTC, the water temp light flashes 3 times when I start up, no other light; do I understand correctly that the oil light should be flashing at the same time to confirm all is good? Thanks

[QUOTE=yamadad4;525423]if your referring to the self diagnosis function where the lights flash three times on initial startup, theres a few things to check. you made the first move by addressing the bulbs.
kenora is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 04:42 PM   #349 (permalink)
Sled Of The Month Judge
 
Yamaha440's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fife Lake, MI.
Posts: 2,498
Kenora, its the same with mine, but I can't be 100% sure. My service manual is setting with the sled many miles from me.
__________________
Submit Your Sled for Sled Of the Month! Details Here

Toys:
1997 Yamaha Vmax XTC ER
1979 Yamaha Exciter 440
1997 Yamaha GP 1200 Triple
1967 Mercury Cougar XR7
2015 Season Mileage:58
Yamaha440 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 08:22 PM   #350 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,040
temp light only should flash three times. the oil light isnt involved with the self diagnosis.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 08:25 PM   #351 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpawl31 View Post
I was under the assumption they all had tps and tors. Thanks for that info. I'll give plugging them I'm a whirl.
As for filter, my piece on the hood is toast as is trim around air box hole. Thinking I'll drop a piece in on top of the inner plate 1/2 way in the box?

Both of the extra wires look to be two or the terminal white clip connectors. One by the coil right under what I believe is the regulator or rectifier? The other comes out of the same wire bundle that the tors sensor plugs into. Your guess is probably right, as I don't have electric start our reverse on any of the 3 sleds.
Thanks again.
those parts are cheap as oem and should still be available, the spendy one is the baffle closest to the tank.

go shopping for these parts:
8AB-14425-01-00
8AB-77268-00-00
89A-2199J-00-00
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 10:41 AM   #352 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 42
Thanks for the part numbers! They are still out there, but it's all the same basic foam. And it would be at the very least $30 for all of them, with two sleds to buy them for.

I am thinking of just getting a chunk of generic foam like that, and placing it in between the halves of the air box, screwed in nice and tight. Then a wire mesh (chunk of chicken wire type stuff?) over the airbox hole to keep animals out.

Probably get away with under $10 for both sleds that way.



New question for you. I have not experienced it myself yet - but my friend took the 98 VMAX 500 XT we bought a few weeks ago around the yard yesterday.
He said that it makes a chugging/rattling/ratcheting noise when you first start to go, then it CLUNKS, then it GOES. He was thinking chaincase or bearings. I am leaning more towards too-tight of a track, and it's ratcheting the cogs? I am sure we'll figure it out. But my guess is it would be a LOT NOISIER and more metal-to-metal sound if it were the chain being loose, or a drive axle bearing.
dpawl31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 12:18 PM   #353 (permalink)
'93 Phazer and The Kid
 
Phaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NW WI
Posts: 1,021
A too "loose" track will cause it to ratchet......
__________________
'05 Yamaha RX1 ER 1000
'93 Yamaha Phazer II LE 485
'96 Polaris Ultra SP 700 - SOLD!!

2013/2014 miles: 290
2012/2013 miles: 654
2011/2012 miles: 737
The sled is fixed... Now my wallet is broke..

Phaze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 02:37 PM   #354 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 42
Yes I know that, but I've also heard a tight one would as well? I know it's TIGHT, but it may be TOO TIGHT. Is it possible to ratchet when too tight? Too much resistance?
dpawl31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 04:33 PM   #355 (permalink)
Super Moderator
 
RJ Gleason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Groton NY
Posts: 32,581
No it is not possible for a track that is over tight to ratchet. If you are still hearing it do that, then the problem is in the chain case.
__________________
Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


Worshipful Master; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!
RJ Gleason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 07:00 PM   #356 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,040
i would start by checking the chain case tensioner bolt. finger tight. then i would try changing the belt out with a known good one and test minimally. might even try that first. from there i would check the driveshaft bearing on the clutch side and follow through with the gears and chain and associated chain case bearings.

too tight of track wouldnt cause the noise and wont ratchet, but it sure is hard on the driveshaft bearings and chaincase, which could be an end result of too much track tension.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 10:01 PM   #357 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 12
Hi Yamadad,
I have a 97 Phazer ll. I can't figure out how much oil should be in the chain case. Mine is below any level I can see by taking out the big rubber plug near the top. There is also a little nipple 1/3 of the way down that looks like it may have had a tube on it at one time. how high should the oil level be?
Hybridbn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 08:24 AM   #358 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,040
250cc's or a bit over 8oz. about 1/3 up from the bottom near the center of the chaincase cover theres a 10mm headed bolt. remove the bolt and fill until the oil starts to come out of this hole.

dont think yours had a drain plug on it yet, but it might. with the pipe removed, it would be on the lower forward section of the chaincase cover and it will say "drain". best would be to remove the cover and give the gears and chain a onceover.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 07:38 PM   #359 (permalink)
Registered User
 
eli346's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: MI,thumb area
Posts: 1,215
Hi yamadad haven't been been on here on a while. Just wondering if your offer of shipping that first gen phazer skid still stands? I think im finally ready to work on the sleds now that there's snow on the ground.
__________________
1989 arctic cat jag afs 440(small project)
1990 yamaha phazer 2

The new money pit
eli346 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2012, 10:56 AM   #360 (permalink)
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by eli346 View Post
Hi yamadad haven't been been on here on a while. Just wondering if your offer of shipping that first gen phazer skid still stands? I think im finally ready to work on the sleds now that there's snow on the ground.
remind me of which offer. note that shipping costs have taken a sharp upturn.
yamadad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:00 PM.



Copyright SnowmobileForum.com

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0