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Old 10-16-2012, 01:32 AM   #321 (permalink)
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yamadad, if you were me what would you do?

I have a really neat, 1993 Exciter II SX with a Polaris Xtra 10 skid and Fox shocks. The problem is even with the 7/8" track tightened up it rubs the front five inches of the long, underseat coolers pretty good. I'd like to get a new 1 or 1 1/14" track so should I change to 8" drivers or modify the coolers? I can remove the coolers, eliminate a section, and tig weld it back together and reinstall.

Which is a better idea? Or do you have another one?

Thanks.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:39 AM   #322 (permalink)
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Notch the track is also an option.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:44 PM   #323 (permalink)
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sx, great sled for its time, scary fast(at least mine was). i would look at the skid mounting first. its been awhile, but i dont recall any rubbing or even close with the factory skid. could be the front pivot arm bolts/mounts are too high in the tunnel.

i actually stretched mine out to 136 along with a 1 3/16 track using an adapted skid from a 95 vmax st. didnt change the drivers but should have. tunnel clearance wasnt an issue. instead i removed the front exchanger. temp light would flash on hard pack. this was long before the invention of ice scratchers and that sled may have benefited having those.

any of those exchangers are easily altered and i would think by simply removing a section wouldnt hurt your cooling if your running both the front and rear along with the tunnel mounts. my concern would be the fit and finish. seems like the connecting hoses exited the tunnel forward of the fuel tank and the fitting were attached at about the point you would want to cut. with the tank and seat off it will all be in front of you. shortening of the exchangers may take some creativity with routing of the hoses.

that being said, notching the track is simple and effective. dropping that front mount bolt down about 5/8" may solve your problem.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:42 PM   #324 (permalink)
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Okay, thanks guys.

When I get it out of storage I'll remove the seat and take a look at the cooler plumbing.

I was very meticulous about mounting the skid and believe I got all of the measurements right. Really, when I look at it, I don't see how a small adjustment of the front mount would make much difference. I'm looking at the track wrapping around the the drive wheels and the rear wheels and trying to see how moving the front point would change the tracks path.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:40 PM   #325 (permalink)
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i wasnt implying the skid was mounted incorrectly, just suggesting a possibility that it could be improved upon. as mentioned, with stock skids exchanger clearance wasnt an issue for me.

by letting the skid out of the tunnel you can increase the clearance between the track and the tunnel. it must be done proportionately with the front and rear mounts. you can overdo it though and create issues with the steering and ski pressure.

when you have access to your sled, see where the skid bolts are in relation to the top of the tunnel as well as the original skid mounting holes.
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Old 11-18-2012, 12:53 PM   #326 (permalink)
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98 vmax xtrb

I have been able to take the sled out a few times now, I have noticed that when I am at a lower speed, say 0-45km/hr, it seems a little boggy. After i get rpm's up a bit more it takes right off. I did change the plugs, time to clean carbs maybe?
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:44 PM   #327 (permalink)
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alot of possibilities come to mind. poor fuel, carbs needing cleanedor adjusted, clutches needing cleaned, adjusted, or having worn components, belt tension, belt condition, etc.

if you have the chance to test again, hit the choke lever to half position when its boggy. if you have a stand to run it on or a way to elevate the track from the ground, you can run it that way as well.

choking will lead you to a carb issue, no load(elevated)can indicate drive issues. sometimes both can occur at the same time.
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:18 PM   #328 (permalink)
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Hey dad,

Just picked up a nearly new Polaris track for $60. It's missing 3 lugs, that's it. My question: I have a 98 Mountain SRX triple and want to slap some rail extensions on and was wondering if the track will fit right in. The track is a 144", I currently have a 136". The Polaris track I believe is a 144x15x2 with a 2.52 pitch. Part number is obsolete but its 5411915. Will my cog drivers spin this puppy? It was a deal I couldn't pass up.

Thanks and have a good one!


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Old 12-02-2012, 09:04 PM   #329 (permalink)
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New hifax too? Really don't want to get new ones.


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Old 12-02-2012, 09:26 PM   #330 (permalink)
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sounds like the track will fit, depending on lug height. seems like the msrx had the 1.5" with 9t drivers? you will need 8t to clear a 2" track.

skip the rail extensions and move the skid back. lots to gain doing this. i have the numbers for the 141 relocate, nothing for the 144 but could easily calculate.

no need for new hyfax unless you add extensions with provisions for hyfax. never had any issues with the non-hyfax extensions. ran them for years prior to their marketing.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:44 PM   #331 (permalink)
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Fairly new to the snowmobile scene. What do you mean by "moving back the skid"? Also, now I may be wrong, but the lug height looks the same on both tracks.


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Old 12-02-2012, 10:20 PM   #332 (permalink)
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Both look 2 inches.
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On sled right now.
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Shackled up.

Would I still need 8t drivers?


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Old 12-03-2012, 07:59 PM   #333 (permalink)
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you may want to count the teeth on the drivers. from the pictures they appear to be the same lug height and the mounted track doesnt appear to be stock.

as for moving the skid, lots involved there. in a nutshell, simply moving the skid back by changing the mount holes in the tunnel and adding backing and bracketry as needed.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:58 PM   #334 (permalink)
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will look into that, thank you!
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:36 AM   #335 (permalink)
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1995 v-max 600

my 600 will start and run great up to 6000 rpm. anything over that it flattens out. could you please tell me the possible cause of this?

Last edited by mikelandry; 12-05-2012 at 10:41 AM. Reason: bad spelling lol
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:59 PM   #336 (permalink)
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my 600 will start and run great up to 6000 rpm. anything over that it flattens out. could you please tell me the possible cause of this?
i would suggest a thorough inspection of the clutching and take it from there.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:27 PM   #337 (permalink)
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im getting ready for the season and i just got my sled in august, i have an 03 sx viper what size bar risers can i go up to without needing a new throttle cable, im 6ft if that helps if you can get right back to me that would be great thank you.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:50 PM   #338 (permalink)
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3" would be pushing it. if you want to go taller, use the parts from the 03 mtn viper. (8EN parts, not 8EK). almost 12" using these oem parts.

i use the mtn viper cables on all my 2 stroke yamahas with risers.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:58 AM   #339 (permalink)
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2000 V-max 600

I got this sled last year, 6800 miles, runs great but the oil and water lights don't seem to work. I read somewhere they should come on when you turn the ignition on. Replaced the bulbs but still don't work. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:31 PM   #340 (permalink)
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I got this sled last year, 6800 miles, runs great but the oil and water lights don't seem to work. I read somewhere they should come on when you turn the ignition on. Replaced the bulbs but still don't work. Any suggestions?
if your referring to the self diagnosis function where the lights flash three times on initial startup, theres a few things to check. you made the first move by addressing the bulbs.

more important than the self diagnosis function is to confirm the sending units for both the temp and oil are working properly and the wiring is good. you will need an ohmmeter and and some time to test. if these are in proper working order, i wouldnt worry about the self diagnosis.

my 2000 600 had the same issue. you would be looking at replacing either the stator or the cdi and no guarantee. i think theres a glitch in that particular system. being that both parts are expensive, if the sensors are working, i wouldnt worry about trying to fix it if the sled runs like it should and there are no other problems.
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